Searchlight Crusade

This is going to be one of those occasional posts that gets expanded and reposted from time to time. This list is not exhaustive, although over time it is intended to become closer. If you have one, send it to me (dm at)

Any of these is sufficient reason, all by itself, not to do business with that company or person, to cancel your loan if in progress, or to go get another backup loan.

Any actual lie

Up front application fees, or sign up fees.

Up front lock fees.

Up front appraisal fees, as opposed to at the point of appraisal.

Any up front fee beyond credit report.

Requiring the originals of your documents.

Trying to sell you a Negative amortization loan, under any of its names, without explaining in detail all of the gotchas and limitations and why you need it (and you’ve got to be in pretty sorry shape to need it!)

Not locking your rate, or letting it float

On stated income or NINA loans, not giving a real idea of what the payment is going to be, and making sure you can afford it.

On full documentation or EZ documentation loans, needing to document more money than you make.

Requiring you to pay an “in house” appraiser (Who is receiving a salary)

Not allowing you to choose an appraiser if you want to (you should want to).

Not allowing you to order the appraisal if you want to (you should want to).

Consistently using the same phrase in response to a question. “Nothing out of your pocket” ($30,000 added to your mortgage) and “Thirty Year Loan” (note the absence of the words “fixed rate”) are two that are sufficiently pervasive as to merit independent mention.

An answer to a question that is somehow similar, instead of to the question you asked. Especially if said obviously intended to distract and mollify you, or is a pat phrase you’ve heard them use before.

You check their calculations on a couple of calculators and the numbers are both consistent and different from what you were quoted as a payment. (Some web calculators lie, but they usually lie in slightly different ways, although note that an auto payment calculator uses different first payment assumptions).

California replaced the one page federal Good Faith Estimate with a two page Mortgage Loan Disclosure Statement. I haven’t seen a lot of abuses of this yet, mostly no doubt because it is so new. I don’t even know if there are solid regulations and implementation policies and standards on it yet. I haven’t seen anything from the Department of Real Estate in the mail, and all web searches (including with the Department of Real Estate) come up with is a link to various lender’s online form, not the regulations for filling it out. So I’m presuming that said regulations are similar to the federal Good Faith Estimate, especially as the only thing a recent seminar we paid for on changes in the business had to say was, “If you give the client a Good Faith Estimate, you will be held to have complied with federal regulations but not state of California regulations.” Which implies that California didn’t alter the existing federal standards so much as add a few more requirements, the effects of which are to leave all of the games loan providers play with the federal Good Faith Estimate intact, as well as adding a couple more. (See my two part essay on the Good Faith Estimate for a list of the most common of those games)

The first page of this new form is similar to the Federal Good Faith Estimate. The first major difference is that there is no explicit loan or rate quoted at the top, and the broker or lender must disclose whether each given cost of the loan is paid to the broker or to someone else. There is no explicit line item (as there is on the Good Faith Estimate) for “Estimated Closing Costs” to explicitly sum all of the things that are actual fees or costs of the loan, as opposed to reserve requirements or things that are your fees paid in advance, such as property taxes. Your property taxes are the same whether you have lender A, lender B, or no loan at all. Ditto your homeowner’s insurance, school taxes (if any) and flood insurance (if any). Setting a form where they are part of a total to be compared, rather than apart from that total, is just offering the loan provider one more opportunity to play games or distract you from the really important information.

There is a sum of all the things the client is paying to the broker versus paid to others. I wonder if this might not backfire on the lending and packaging houses that got this part added. They’re going to show a line of fees paid almost entirely to them, whereas the only things paid to or from an actual broker are origination fees (if any), processing fee (my processor works for me or for the brokerage, not the lender), and broker’s rebate to client (if any, and which if it exists is something paid by me the broker to you the client – a good thing in most client’s opinion). Psychologically a telling advantage, even if it doesn’t really mean anything.

At the bottom of page one, there are subtotals for fees paid to others and fees paid to brokers, and then an overall total. Then there’s a section which says “Compensation to Broker,” explicitly adding “(Not Paid Out of Loan Proceeds)”. In other words, this isn’t coming out of your pocket, although they could certainly give you better terms by reducing their compensation in the vast majority of cases. But the fact that one broker is making more than another (or is required to state explicitly what they make where a direct lender or “packaging house” originating their own loans is not) does not mean you’re not getting a better loan from them. Some brokers get discounts others do not. Some brokers disclose honestly and completely, others do not. Examine the loan you are getting – all of the terms, rates and conditions, and decide based upon those which loan is better. That’s what makes a difference to you. The rest is a matador’s red cape – a distraction from what is important.

Once again, this isn’t important to you, the client, but it has in passing performed a service to many workers in the loan industry. Many lenders give bigger brokers a volume rebate, over and above the basic per loan rebate, and the brokers were keeping this a secret from even their own workers lest they have to increase compensation. Now these brokers have to disclose it to the clients. This means the brokers have to tell the loan officers about it so they can disclose it. Now that all loan officers know about it instead of only a few, those who are high producers and have leverage can say, “I’m helping you make all this money. I want part of it.”

Page two of this two-page form starts with section I, which is a short accounting of the money. My inclination is not to trust this any more than anything on the Good Faith Estimate. In other words, whether this is accurate is likely to be a function of your particular loan officer’s good will more than anything else. Once again, the only form where there are real penalties for being inaccurate is the HUD-1, which comes at the end of the loan, not the beginning. But it’s a good intention, nonetheless, and perhaps one of these years it’ll actually mean something even if your loan officer is Simon LeGreedy or has a nose fourteen miles long. Proposed loan amount less costs, less other stuff of yours that’s getting paid off, less the purchase price of the home or payoff of existing loan. The idea is to give you an explicit “you’re going to get this much cash” or “you must pay this much cash to make this balance”

Section II is something I want to draw your attention to: Proposed interest rate is a good thing to have, although there is no more guarantee that this is the rate you’re going to get than a federal Good Faith Estimate. But it has a choice of two things to check off “Fixed Rate” or “Initial Variable Rate”. Just because Fixed Rate is checked does not mean the loan they are discussing is fixed rate for the full duration of the loan. Let me repeat that: Just because Fixed Rate is checked does not mean the loan they are discussing is fixed rate for the full duration of the loan. It might be fixed for thirty years – or it might be fixed for three months. This is a good place for unscrupulous loan officers to offer misleading information verbally, while checking the correct box doesn’t usually mean a whole lot.

Section III is proposed term of the loan. If something less than 360 months is written here (or whatever the amortization of the loan is in years), it’s telling you there’s a balloon at the end. Once again, there is no way to verify that if 360 months is what is written, it’s real.

Section IV is proposed loan payment. Ideally it’s computed based upon the amounts given in the previous three sections. Verify that it at least makes mathematical sense by running these numbers through an amortization calculator, or doing the calculation yourself. Many loan officers will play games with the payment because people shop loans based upon payment.

Section V: does the loan have a prepayment penalty, and on what basis? I’m glad to see this section here. I’ll be even gladder if and when I see evidence the answers mean anything in the sense of legal penalties for lying. Lying about prepayment penalties has been rampant for a long time. Lying about prepayment penalties is a good way to make an absolutely awful loan look pretty good. Lying about prepayment penalties gets someone to sign up with the loan provider who lies because of this. And when you find out at the end of the loan process, when they present the loan documents, that they were lying (if you even notice, which many are expert at making sure you don’t!), you may not have any good alternatives to signing those documents anyway.

Section VI basically tells you the lender cannot require credit life insurance or disability insurance. Many lenders would if they could. Not that disability insurance is a bad idea – quite the opposite in fact (I’m of two minds on credit life insurance, and this is not the place for that essay).

Section VII requires you the client to tell them, the lender about all the other liens on the property and hints at penalties for dishonesty. Not that the lender or broker is going to take your word for it, of course. But the gall of requiring a consumer to be accurate on this or face penalties, pay for the loan, etcetera when many brokers and lenders could submit the form to the Pulitzer committee for consideration in the category for best short fiction amazes me.

Section VIII is about Article 7, which covers loan amounts so small as to be irrelevant for all practical purposes in California. There’s also a bit about whether or not a broker is lending their own money. This is potentially both confusing and interesting, but beyond the scope of this essay. It’s good that they are requiring license numbers now. In California, you can easily look them up for past violations online at http://www2.dre.ca.gov/PublicASP/pplinfo.asp (many other states have similar registries). Not that someone without past violations is pure, and not that someone with them necessarily intends to do anything dirty to you. But it’s good information to know. Another good place to check them out is with the Better Business Bureau, which compiles information on every business, members or not, at http://www.bbb.org/ You’ll need a business name and address, phone number, or web site. Now, if they’ve got one strike against them, they could easily have been caught in circumstances beyond their control. But a pattern of abuses is a clear warning. A few days ago, I decided to risk $50 for a business card order with a company that has a truly awful rating BBB rating. The cards arrived two days later and I couldn’t be happier with any aspect of the transaction. But my next order from them won’t be any bigger until they have established a track record with me (and also I with them so they can see a long history of orders they want to keep coming, and which will stop if their service isn’t satisfactory).

Section IX explicitly tells you, the client, that this is not a loan commitment. This is good, so far as it goes. I’ve spoken to many otherwise intelligent people who somehow had acquired the idea that because a loan provider filled out a Good Faith Estimate, it meant the loan was a Done Deal. It most certainly does not mean anything of the sort. No real estate loan officer EVER writes a loan commitment, and it’s been that way for at least a couple of decades. Loan commitments are the exclusive province of the underwriter, who is intentionally and for anti-fraud reasons isolated from the client (i.e. the underwriter is not allowed to communicate with you directly). The most an ethical loan officer will say is “my experience does not show me anything that should cause you to have a problem”

Now, here’s the rub, and an indication of what this section really should say. Does it not stand to reason that if the loan is not a Done Deal at all, it most particularly is not a done deal on the exact stated terms?

Caveat Emptor.



UPDATE: The Jawa Report solicits trackback pings for postings of our choice, so here is one. Thank you!

For all of the rants I post about bad business practices, there are a lot of things the mortgage industry gets right. One of these looks like a red flag not to do business with them, and may seem like a cruel trick, but it is neither.

With every single loan that is done, you, the client, will get a package in the mail from the actual lender. It looks very official, and in fact it is.

Depending upon lender policy, it usually contains intentional mistakes on things such as the loan type, rate of the loan, or the points involved.

Every so often, I get a panicked phone call because I forgot to warn the client the package was coming.

The point of this particular package is not what it appears to be.

You see, every so often, somebody comes into the office and applies for a loan on a property they don’t own. Sometimes loan brokers actually go out and meet the client in their home, but other sorts of loan providers sit in their office and business comes to them. So the bank has really no way of knowing if this is the actually the person who owns or even lives in the property. So they mail a loan package to the property.

The idea is that if you haven’t applied for a loan, you’re going to speak up. You’re going to call the bank, the broker, and everyone else asking, “What the heck is going on? Is somebody else trying to get a loan on my property?”

This is the point of the particular package. It’s an anti-fraud measure. And it has just worked.

No matter which provider, no matter what type of loan you get, nobody is going to loan you money without the appropriate documentation. The more documentation you have that you are a good risk, the better the rate you are going to get, and the lower your costs are going to be.

Everybody hates filling out forms and providing documentation. There’s a billboard two blocks from my house advertising, “Stress free loans.” Actually, these signs are all over. And I’ll bet they bring in a lot of business. Low documentation loans are easy money – I could do them all day and all night, and make more money, and make the lender more money, while doing less work, than I can by hunkering down and actually serving my clients best interests. Those billboards say “stress free loans” which three words look like an English sentence meaning this will be easy, but the real translation to English reads, “Hello, I am a lowlife scum who wants to take advantage of lazy people who are too ignorant to know better by making a lot of money providing loans at higher interest rates and less favorable terms than they could obtain elsewhere.”

The fact is, that for something dealing with this much money, if there is documentation you can produce to prove that you are a better risk and gets you a better rate, you should be eager to present it. If I can spend half an hour instead of fifteen minutes filling out forms and as a reward I save $40 or more every month until the next time I decide to refinance, I want to fill out the extra papers. If I refinance every two years, I have essentially been paid $960 for a quarter hour of work. That works out to $3840 per hour. I don’t know about you, the reader, but even when I’m completely inundated with clients, I don’t make that kind of money per hour. I don’t know any job that pays that much, unless you want to include wealthy investor. And let me tell you, the wealthy investors I’ve dealt with are eager to spend the extra time filling out said forms. It really is a “Rich Dad, Poor Dad” situation. They know it will Save Them Money, and don’t have to be sweet talked into filling out one more form or providing a little more documentation. They’ve got it already copied for me, and if I want their business, I’d better buckle down and get to work on finding the loan with the best terms possible. If you, the reader, wish to be wealthy, you could do worse than emulate their example.

There are, when you get right down do it, three different levels of documentation. The lowest level of documentation is NINA, which is short for “No Income, No Assets.” There are other names for it (“No Ratio” being the most common). This is a loan where the rate you get is purely driven by your credit score (as well as other factors, such as the equity in your home or down payment you’re making, but those are constants endemic to the situation, not variables about which I am talking). You’re not even documenting that you have a source of income. You’re basically saying, “Here I am! Gotta love me!” to the bank, and they really do love you because you’re filling their coffers by paying the highest rates for your loan. Guess what? You’re still filling out all the forms (or somebody is doing so on your behalf, which they can do to the same extent on other loan types!), and you’re still providing all the documentation on the property – how much it’s worth, proving you own it, proving the taxes are current, etcetera. Owing to identity theft laws, you can expect to have to provide two things that basically show that you are you. You can expect to deal with problems if the county doesn’t show the taxes as current, your landlord or current mortgage holder shows you as being behind or that you have a history of being behind or the county doesn’t show you officially in title of record, or any of a host of other potential problems, but hey, at least you didn’t have to show that you’ve got a source of income!

The next level of documentation is a “Stated Income” loan. This is where you document that you’ve got a source of income, but not that said income is sufficient to justify the loan, so you tell the bank you make that much, and they agree not to verify the actual numbers. This is going to require two additional items: verification of employment, or a testimonial letter if you are self-employed, and reserves. Reserves are quickest to explain. Industry standard is money sufficient to pay the loan, your taxes, and your homeowner’s insurance for six months, in a form that is sufficiently liquid such that the money can be accessed, for a long enough period that the bank will believe it isn’t borrowed – and the bank will require documentation of its availability if it’s in an account type such as 401k where access may be restricted. Verification of your employment is somebody in the HR department filling out a form on your behalf and verifying it over the phone. The testimonial letter for self-employed borrowers comes from your lawyer, accountant, or tax preparer on their letterhead saying that you really do have a legitimate business. It basically reads: “To whom it may concern. John Smith is self-employed as the owner of business X. He has been doing this for Y years. Based upon information provided to me, he will earn the same amount of money this year as last year.” The person providing the testimonial must sign the letter. It really is only three sentences, but that person is putting their business on the line for you if it’s not true. So they tend to require evidence if you’re coming to them for the first time to get this letter written and signed.

The bank is basically looking for two years in the same line of work or at the same company to approve this one. Sub prime lenders may take a year or even six months, although their terms will not be as favorable. What the bank is looking for is evidence that you can really afford the loan. “He’s got a source of income, He’s got a good credit score, he’s making all his payments, he’s got money in the bank, okay, we think he’s living with his means and can afford to pay us back. We’ll lend him the money.” There are variants on stated income of which “stated income, stated assets” is the most common, but these carry higher rates, higher charges, or both, in many cases actually end up looking more like a heavily propagandized NINA loan than anything else.

I’ve heard Stated Income (and NINA) commonly referred to as “liars loans”, and they are often used for such, but that is not their intended use. As a matter of fact, people get in a lot of trouble with these loans, and many times it comes back on an unscrupulous loan officer or real estate agent trying to push something through for which their clients really aren’t qualified. If you can’t afford the payment, am I doing you a favor to qualify you for the loan? I submit that I most emphatically am not. On the other hand, I’ll admit to having used the loans for that purpose in the past, but an ethical loan officer using it for this purpose should sit down, tell the people what the real payment is going to be, and make certain they can afford it – sometimes they’re renting and their effective cost of housing is going to go down! And in that case, I submit that I probably am helping them if I push the loan through. On the other hand, if you’re doing Stated Income or NINA (especially on a purchase) and the loan officer doesn’t sit you down and cover what the payment is going to be within a couple dollars per month, and make certain you’re okay paying it, this is a red flag in no uncertain terms!

What Stated Income is meant for is self employed people and people working on commission who really do make the money, but have write-offs such that their taxes aren’t going to show enough income. Or people who had a bad year, or large losses or high write offs one year, but are still basically solid.

The highest form of documentation is Full Documentation (almost everyone says “full doc” because the unabbreviated phrase is a mouthful). This does not necessarily mean I’ve got to prove to the bank that you make every penny you actually make, but only that you make enough to justify the loan. The proof the bank will accept is very straightforward. Self-employed borrowers are still going to need that testimonial letter from stated income. They will additionally be asked for their federal income tax packet. This is all of the forms, front and back, that you sent to the IRS last April 15th, and perhaps the April 15th before that, too. It’s got to be a signed copy, and it must include copies of any w-2s or 1099s that you get. People in the construction profession, as well as those who may be w-2 employees but work on commission will also need to furnish their taxes, and the bank’s underwriter can always require it of anyone. It is to be noted that banks do not have to accept your loan on a stated income basis – they can require that you furnish full documentation.

Those people who are hourly or salaried employees of a company can usually get by the full documentation of income requirement with just w-2 forms. If you are a company employee, the last 30 days worth of pay stubs will also be required.

The basic rationale for this is simple. Very few people tell the IRS that they make more money than they do, because the consequence is higher taxes. So the bank is willing to use tax forms to prove your income. In the case of a w-2 employee, the company is telling the IRS that those are the wages it paid you, and therefore wants a deduction for, and you went and paid taxes on it, so the bank will usually accept that. Similarly, your pay stubs should have year to date pay on them. Here the bank will accept the word, metaphorically speaking, of a third party without a stake in the outcome of the loan.

A subset of the full documentation loan is the streamline refinance. As the name indicates, it is available on refinances only, not purchases. There are a lot of limits on these loans, but when I get to do one it is the easiest of all loans. Basically, it’s a case where the same lender is now offering better rates, and no equity is being taken out of the home, and they’ll allow you to do it because otherwise you’ll take this client elsewhere. 90 percent of a loaf is much better to them than none.

Within the sub-prime mortgage world, they will often take the deposits from 12 consecutive months of bank statements (sometimes 6 or 24), usually discounted by a certain amount, and accept that as proof of income. This is called EZ doc, although there’s nothing easy about it and as a matter of experience there are more fights with the underwriter and jumping through hoops here than with any other type of loan documentation. The rates are somewhat higher than for full documentation, but not nearly the rates for stated income. Mind you, sub-prime rates are higher in the first place as well. Furthermore, many of these sub-prime lenders will advertise the fact that “EZ doc rates same as full doc!” I shouldn’t have to explain to adults that this translates to English as they don’t give the lower rates to true full documentation loans, now should I?

So, on the subject of documentation, I think you should be able to tell that the higher the quality of your income documentation, the lower the rate that you are going to get from a given lender. If you can qualify, a full documentation loan is probably going to save you more than enough money to pay you to do the extra paperwork, which is marginal anyway. The only reason not to do one is if you can’t supply proof that you make enough.

And as one final warning: If a loan officer requires originals not only of the forms they ask you to sign (original signatures required – really!), but of your own documentation, it is a BIG RED FLAG. I can’t think of any document that lenders will not accept copies of. The only reason to require your originals is that they don’t want you able to apply for a loan with someone else, so they’re putting an end to your shopping, and once they’ve got them, good luck trying to get them back (at least until the loan is done so they get paid). A good loan officer needs good readable copies – not your originals.

Caveat Emptor!

Mortgage – Questions you must ask every provider on every loan.

(This list is trying to be as exhaustive as possible, but is likely missing some important questions. If I missed one, send it to me: dm at )

What is the rate?

What is the amortization period?

Is there a possibility that the note will be due in full before the amortization pays it off? (Vaguely equivalent to “is there a balloon?” but a broader question)

Is the payment interest only, or principal and interest?

(if interest only) how long is it interest only, and what happens afterward?
Is there any possibility of negative amortization (the balance increasing) if I make the minimum payment? (if yes, warning!)

Is the nominal rate different from the real rate of interest I am being charged?

How long is the rate fixed for?

(If fixed for less than the full period of the loan) What is the rate based upon when it adjusts, what is the margin, and how often does it adjust?

What is the industry standard name for this loan type?

Is the rate you are quoting me based upon full documentation, stated income, NINA or EZ Doc?

(If full or EZ doc) Assuming I have other monthly payments of $X, how much monthly income do I have to document in order to qualify? (If this is more than you make, Warning!)

How many points TOTAL will I have to pay to get that rate.

How many points of origination will I be charged?

How many discount points will I have to pay?

What are the closing costs I will have to pay?

(because they are allowed to omit third party costs from all estimates and totals, you must add the answers to the next three questions to the previous question unless the provider specifically includes them)

How much will the appraisal fee be?

How much will total title charges be?

How much will the escrow fee be.

Who will my title company be?

Who will my escrow company be?

(If escrow company is not owned by title company, i.e. same name, be prepared for unknown additional title charges).

How much, total, will I be expected to pay out of my pocket?

How much, total, will be added to my mortgage balance?

With everything added to my mortgage balance, what will my payment be?

How long of a rate lock is included with this quote?

————-



After you have finished talking to this person, go check out the numbers. If you have a calculator that can handle mortgage calculations, use it. If you’re able to do the calculations yourself, even better. Otherwise, do a web search for payment calculators or mortgage calculators or amortization calculators, and try out a couple of different ones (because some web calculators on lenders sites are programmed to lie!). This is math – there is only one right answer! The numbers should come out the same except for rounding errors! If the difference is more than five dollars in any case, that’s a red flag! (You should also make certain the reason for the difference is not operator error. For instance, automobile payment calculators assume a different first payment than mortgage calculators, but student loan calculators should be compatible with mortgages.)

Caveat Emptor

Everybody knows that you want the lowest rate, and everybody knows that you don’t want to pay any money you don’t have to, in order to get it. However, not everybody makes the connection that it is always a tradeoff between the two. At any given point in time, each home lender has it’s own set of tradeoffs in place.

There are two components to the costs of a loan: Closing costs and points. Points have to do with the cost of the money. Closing costs relate to the work that has to be performed in order to get the loan done. These are not junk fees, although junk fees do happen.

Let us consider for a moment the home loan. You want to buy a home for your family, but don’t have enough cash. Without somebody willing to loan you the difference, you cannot buy. You check with your family, your friends, your neighbors and they’re all tapped out (or say they are). But there’s a bank over there willing to loan it if you meet their terms.

The banks are not being altruists, of course. They’re making a good chunk of change for doing so. But you would not believe the amount of complaints I hear out sympathetically about how this evil horrible bank is charging all this money and making people jump through all these hoops to get this money (“They want a pay stub! Actually they want two pay stubs! What is the problem with these nazis?”). Fact is that this bank is doing you a favor, risking hundreds of thousands of dollars on you so that you can own a home for your family. They are doing something for you that all of your friends and family were unwilling or unable to do: loan you the money to buy a home. I’d say that puts them pretty high on my “nifty list”, not “Nazis”, but it’s your life. When you think about it, they’re doing you a favor by making certain you can afford the payments on the loan (It’s more than many agents and many loan officers will do), as well as insuring that if something goes wrong and you can’t afford the loan, they’ll get most of their money back. Real Estate is not sold on a whim. Right now, another agent in my office has a listing of an $800,000 home. The family makes about $60,000 a year. Their interest alone is 76% of their gross pay, never mind property taxes and insurance. An unscrupulous agent sold them the house based upon the ability to flip it whenever they wanted, and found them a similar loan agent to get them a negative amortization loan so they’ve got about fifteen hundred dollars a month being added to their mortgage and they still can’t make the payment. But real estate is not like stock; you can’t sell it at will. The market cooled just a little bit. They’ve already lost their entire investment, and they’ve come to our office to get it sold before worse things happen, and we’re doing everything that can be done, and still nobody wants to buy it.

There’s a lot of this out there. You would likely be amazed at the loans a competent loan officer can qualify you for (and that if you understood what you were getting into, you’d drag them into the sunlight and run a wooden stake through their hearts before running away, instead of believing them to be your friend). I’d get an extra client a week, at least, if I didn’t sit down with the people to find out what they can really afford before I showed them the $800,000 house that’s going to get me paid a Huge Pile Of Money, when I really should be telling them about 2 or 3 bedroom condominiums, or even telling them to continue renting. It’s hard to get a client enthusiastic about a 2 bedroom condo, particularly when someone else is showing them a 5 bedroom 2800 square foot House With It’s Own Yard and No Shared Walls and telling them they know Someone Who Can Get The Loan. But the world will catch up to these agents and loan officers, and I put a certain value on staying in business.

Getting back to the issue of closing costs, there is work that has to be done before you get your loan. The people who do that work are entitled to be paid. You don’t work for free. They’re not going to work for free. As I have covered elsewhere, realistic closing costs without junk fees are about $3400, and can easily be higher. The bank is not just going to absorb the cost because they’re going to make money off the loan.

Each home loan, whether the lender intends to sell it or not, has a value on the secondary market. They also cost the lender a certain amount (they have to pay for all money they lend, whether by borrowing or by opportunity cost). Based upon these two facts, the lender sets a level of discount points or rebate for each rate for each type of loan. When you pay discount points, you are actually paying the lender money in order to buy a rate that you would not otherwise be able to get. When there is a rebate, it means that the lender will pay out money for a loan done on those terms. A rebate can be thought of as a negative discount, and vice versa. Whatever the level it is set at by the lender, there’s going to be an additional margin so that the broker or loan officer can get paid, even if the loan officer is an employee of that lender. This margin is not necessarily smaller by going direct to a lender – actually a broker usually has a better margin than that lender’s own loan officers. As I say elsewhere, the supermarket banks often have their best rates posted, and I’m usually getting someone a better loan (lower cost/rate tradeoff) with the same lender.

But within a given type of loan, the lender always sets the loan discount higher for the lowest rate. The lower the rate, the higher the discount and the higher the rate the lower the discount. Choose the lowest rate, and pay not only closing costs but the highest discount as well. Whether it’s coming out of your checkbook or being added to your mortgage, you are still paying it. Choose a somewhat higher rate, and there will be no discount points, just closing costs. There’s a name for this rate where there’s no points but no rebate; it’s called par. Rates below par involve discount points, rates above par will get you some or all of your closing costs paid by the bank or broker.

Many people will want the lowest rate; after all that has the lowest payment. It is (or should be) your choice. It’s actually easier to qualify for lower rates, because the payment is lower. However these lower rates can be costly, because the fact is that the median mortgage in this country is about two years, and fewer than 5% of all loans are less than 5 years old. This means there’s a 50% chance you’ve refinanced (or sold and bought a new home) within two years, and over 95% within 5 years. I see no reason for these consumer habits to change. Furthermore, I’m a consumer, and so are you. There are people who bought a place and paid off their 30 year loan and now own the property free and clear, but they are rare these days. Much more common is the person who bought their house in the 1970s, has refinanced ten or twelve or fourteen times, and now owes ten times the original purchase price. More common yet is the person who’s on the third, fourth, or fifth house since then. You might be one of the first group, or you might not be, pretend you are, and be hurting only yourself. It’s likely to be a costly illusion.

Let’s look at three different 30-year fixed rate loans. All of them start from needing $270,000 in loan money. Loan 1 gets a 5.5% rate, but has to pay two points to get it, so his loan balance starts at $270,000 plus $3400 plus two points, or $278,980. He paid $8980 to get his loan. Loan 2 gets a 6% rate at par, and his loan balance starts at $273,400, because he only had to pay $3400 to get the loan. Finally, Loan 3 chooses a 6.5% loan where all closing costs are paid for him by the bank or broker. His loan balance starts at $270,000.

Your first month interest with Loan 1 is $1278.66, and principal paid is 305.36, on a payment of $1584.02. Loan 2 pays $1367.00 interest and $272.17 principal with a loan payment of $1639.17. Loan 3 is going to pay interest of $1462.50, principal of $244.08, and have a total payment of $1706.58. So far, it’s looking like Loan 1 is the best of all possible loans, right? But look two years down the line when 50 percent of these people have refinanced or sold:

Loan Loan 1 Loan 2 Loan 3

Interest pd. $30,288.21 $32,418.26 $34,720.18
Principal pd. $7,728.21 $6,921.84 $6,237.83
Balance $271,251.79 $266,478.16 $263,762.17

interest diff: $-2130.05 $0 $2301.92
balance dif: $+4773.36 $0 $-2715.99
Net $ $-2643.31 $0 $+414.07

Remember, the original balance was $270,000. Loan 1 has paid $2130 less in interest the Loan 2, while Loan 3 has paid $2301.92 more. Furthermore, Loan 1 has paid down $7728 in principal, while Loan 2 has only paid down $6921 and Loan 3 still less at $6237. It’s really looking like Loan 1 was the best choice.

But remember, 50% of all loans have refinanced or sold within two years. When you refinance or sell, the benefits you paid money to get stop. But the costs to get those benefits are sunk on the front end, and you’re not getting them back. Look at the balance of Loan 1. The person who chose this still owes $271,251 – $1251 more than they did before they chose the loan in the first place. Furthermore, his balance is $4773 higher than loan 2, and even though he paid $2130 less in interest, he’s still $2643 worse off. Furthermore, whether he refinances or sells and rolls the proceeds over into a new property, the new loan is going to be for $4773 more money than Loan 2’s new loan. Assume everybody got a really fantastic new loan at 5%. Loan 1 is going to have to pay $238 more per year to start with in interest expense for his new loan, simply because his remaining balance on the old loan was higher. Loan 3 is in even better shape than Loan 2. He’s paid $2301.92 more in interest, but his balance is $2715.99 lower, for a net benefit over loan 2 of $414, not to mention that his interest costs on his new loan will be almost $136 lower simply because his starting balance is lower.

Now let’s look 5 years out, when over 95% of the people will have sold or refinanced.
Loan Loan 1 Loan 2 Loan 3
Interest pd. $74,007.65 $79,360.88 $85,144.66
Principal pd. $21,033.41 $18,989.39 $17,250.36
Balance $257,946.59 $254,410.61 $252,749.63
interest diff: $-5353.23 $0 $+5783.78
balance diff: $+3535.98 $0 $-1660.98
Net $ $+1817.25 $0 $-4122.80

At this point, Loan 1 has saved $5353 in interest relative to Loan 2, while Loan 3 has spent $5783 more. Loan 1 has cut his balance difference to $3535 more than Loan 2, so he looks like he’s ahead! Furthermore, Loan 3 is really lagging, having paid $5783 more in interest although the difference in balance is only $1660 to his good.

Well, loan 2 is ahead of loan 3 pretty much permanently at this point. Assuming all three refinance or sell and buy a new property with a 5% loan right now, Loan 3 is only going to get back $83 per year of the $4122.80 he’s down relative to Loan 2. Especially considered on a time value of money, that’s permanent. But despite Loan 1 being ahead of Loan 2 right now, Loan 2 will get back almost $177 per year. Ten years on, assuming a ver low 5% rate, loan 2 is back to even, and most of us are going to be property holders the rest of our lives. Consider also that 95% of the people who chose loan 1 NEVER got this far – they never broke even in the first place.

The point I’m trying to get across is that money you roll into your balance hangs around a very long time. And you’re sinking potentially many thousands of dollars into a bet that most people lose. Yes, if you keep the loan long enough, the lower rates (at least for thirty year fixed rate loans) will pretty much always pay for themselves, several times over in many cases. The other point I’m trying to make is that most people don’t keep their loan long enough for the benefits to pay for their costs to get those benefits.

As a final consideration, consider what happens if one year later interest rates are one-half percent lower. I can get Loan 3 the same loan that Loan 2 has for zero cost. He’s got the same interest rate as Loan 2, whom I can’t help right now, but a lower balance – neither one of his loans cost him anything. And it has happened that the rates dropped down to where I could get someone 5.5% on a thirty year fixed rate loan for zero – lender pays me enough to pay all the closing costs. Net cost to them, zip. Suppose rates do this again. I call Loan 2 and Loan 3, and now they’ve both got 5.5 %, but this doesn’t help Loan 1. Now Loan 2 has the same as Loan 1, while only adding $3400 to his balance to get it, as opposed to Loan 1 adding nearly $9000, and Loan 3 has the same loan without adding a dime to his balance. Who’s in the best position?

Caveat Emptor

There are actually several distinct marketplaces consumers can obtain their funds from, and several types of providers. John the wealthy highly salaried person with great credit and a substantial down payment should not and usually does not obtain his mortgage from the same funds providers as his twin brother Jim, the self-employed, always-broke person with terrible credit and no down payment. They may deal with the same employee at the same business, but the funds and parameters for using those funds, are entirely different.

In order to make sense later on, I’ve first got to acquaint you with two concepts: yield spread and pre-payment penalty. The yield spread is what then lender pays the person or company who does the paperwork for your loan in order to give them an incentive to choose that lender, as well as any of several other reasons. The yield spread is based upon the rate of the loan, the type of the loan, etcetera

Prepayment penalty is a penalty you agree to pay if you sell your home or refinance before a certain period of time has passed. Industry standard is six months interest, with some lenders making this 80 percent of six months interest. Usually (not always) they will let you pay a certain amount over the normal, agreed upon principal per year without triggering the penalty, but if you sell or refinance out of their loan, the penalty is always triggered for the duration of the penalty. Some lenders will actually phase it out in stages, although this is not common.

Lest it be not plain to you, a prepayment penalty is a thing to avoid if you reasonably can. Let’s say you get transferred and need to sell the house in six months, and that you have a $200,000 loan at 6%. That’s six thousand dollars less that you will receive from the sale of your home, not to mention that the average person refinances every two years, which is typically the shortest pre-payment penalty. If you need to refinance within two years, that’s six thousand dollars of your equity gone for no good purpose. Mind you, if you need the loan, and it gets you the loan, so be it. It’s still a thing to avoid.

The top of the food chain from the point of view of consumers are the so-called A paper lenders. This market is controlled by the two federally chartered giants, Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. Lenders who participate in these markets lend in full accordance with Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac rules, because they want to be able to sell the loan to them. In many cases, they actually do sell them seamlessly by retaining the servicing rights, and the consumer never knows they have done it. In others, they retain the loans entire, and in still others, they sell them off entire. They do this for many reasons, but mostly to raise cash so they can do more loans. In any case, the only difference it should make to you, the consumer, is where to address the check and who to make it out to. Unlike the other markets, if the lender pays a yield spread in this market it does not automatically mean that there will be a pre-payment penalty. Although they will pay a higher yield spread if the loan officer sticks the client with a pre-payment penalty (and the longer the prepayment penalty is, the more they will pay). WARNING! Many loan officers will not tell you about it unless asked (“Why bring up a reason not to choose your loan?” is a direct quote I’ve heard any number of times) and some will flat out lie even if you ask. This is not ethical, but they know they can almost certainly get away with it. There really is no reason why an A paper loan should have a prepayment penalty, except that a loan officer wanted to get paid more.

It is not difficult to qualify for an A paper loan. As long as you’re not taking equity out of the home, they can go through with credit scores as low as 620 (full documentation) or 660 (stated income), although there are caveats. Despite what you read in Internet pop-ups, according to National Mortgage Reporting a 660 credit score is more than forty points below the national average. So even someone with modestly below average credit can still qualify for an A paper loan. There are minimum equity requirements, however. And it doesn’t matter if you are King Midas who has never failed to pay a bill immediately in full or someone who barely staggers over the line into qualification by the computer models put out by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. This is it. The top. You all have the exact same rate choices. There is nothing better.

The next niche below A paper is called A minus. The rates are a little bit higher, and there are prepayment penalties anytime the lender pays a yield spread. Then comes the so-called Alt A, which are typically loans for fairly unusual circumstances. The credit scores here go down to about 580, although there is less standardization. The worst, most dangerous, absolutely awful loan in the world comes from the “Alt A” world. There are all kinds of friendly sounding names for it, like “Option ARM”, “pick a pay”, and such things, but they are all negative amortization loans at their heart – you end up owing more than you borrow. They sound benign: “pick your monthly payment!” But in fact most people choose the minimum monthly payment which capitalizes and then amortizes more money into your loan every month. Every single one I’ve ever heard about carries a prepayment penalty. I see adds for these abominations every day all over the internet. If anybody quotes you a mortgage rate below 3%, I will bet you millions to milliamps they are trying to sell you one of these (despite the fact that there are other loans out there below 3% right now). There seriously are providers that do nothing but these – they’re easy to sell to unsuspecting victims because the minimum payment is so small. There really isn’t space here to go over everything that’s wrong with them (or where they may be appropriate), but except in certain special circumstances, RUN AWAY! And do not do business with that person! They have just proven themselves unworthy of your business.

(Every so often, a representative from a new lender walks into my office. I’m always glad to talk to them so long as they answer my questions in a straightforward way, but I have one inflexible rule. If the first thing they talk about is a Negative Am loan – no matter the happy sounding name they call it by, I throw them out and do not allow them to return. I think it indicative of the state of things in the Negative Am world that the one time I had a client who would actually benefit from this thing, and I took the time to tell him exactly where all of the traps I knew about were, give him strategies to turn it to maximum benefit, and he agreed that he wanted to do it – not one of the five companies I tried would actually approve the loan.)

The final niche that comes from regular lenders is called sub prime. And in the world of sub prime lending you can do a lot of things that higher rungs on the ladder will not allow you to do. As in A minus, anytime the lender pays a yield spread there will be a pre-payment penalty, and I think I’ve run across exactly one sub prime loan that didn’t have a prepayment penalty in my whole time as a loan officer. However, the people who subsidize sub prime lenders just don’t have a whole lot of choice. This is typically the only way they’re actually getting a home loan, be it because of low credit, low equity, or what have you. The rates are high, but it’s that or nothing. Sub prime loans are very lucrative – the average lender or broker specializing in them usually makes about 5 points – 5 percent of the loan amount – on each and every loan. I’ve had people thank me so profusely I was almost embarrassed when I got them a loan on something more closely resembling a typical margin from higher niches. The lines between A minus, Alt A, and sub prime are blurring more and more as time goes on. It is to the point now where if someone says they do sub prime, that usually means Alt A and A minus as well – it’s just a matter of where on the spectrum a given client sits.

The final niche is Hard Money. These are not typical lenders as all. They are agents for individual investors, sometimes even carrying the loan themselves in their own person. The rates for this start an absolute rock bottom of about 13 percent, and go up from there. Typically there will be a front-end charge of about 5 percent of the loan amount, and a prepayment penalty of about 7%. These are loans for people with sub 500 credit scores, people with homes that have been damaged in some way and must make repairs before a regular lender will touch the property, and so on and so forth. The equity requirements are large – 75 percent of the value of the home based upon a conservative appraisal is about the highest a hard money lender will go, and most are less. Everybody until this point is in the business of making loans, and is likely to cut you as much slack as practical if you have some difficulty making payments, as they are not in the business of foreclosures. A hard money lender has no such constraint. They will foreclose on your home without a second thought. One way or another, they will get their money back and then some. WARNING! It is common practice on the part of hard money lenders to have you sign the Note and Deed of Trust “conditional” upon them finding an investor. The person signing the documents thinks the loan is done, and that their situation (usually a time critical one) is resolved, and everything is all roses now, but it isn’t. They may still want you to pay for multiple appraisals, jump through multitudinous hoops, and still not give you the loan in the end. This is just their way of binding you to them so that you don’t or can’t go elsewhere. Not that this is completely unknown in the higher niches, but it’s not common, as it is here.

There are three main types of places to go to get a loan. The first is a regular lender. The second is what I call a “packaging house”, although in practical terms it is very similar to a regular lender. The third is a broker or correspondent. Each has their advantages and disadvantages.

A regular lender is what you think of when you think of a bank. Most of the big names are regular lenders. They typically have their own offices, often mingled with other banking functions. They have their own funds, wherever they’ve gotten them from, and they have executives and such that put together their own loan programs, complete with criteria for approving or not approving a given loan. These people do loans with at least the possibility of keeping them in mind, and some do keep every loan they do, while others sell almost every loan. The good news is that they’ll typically be slightly more willing to make exceptions around the edges (whether or not the loan is a good one for you!). The bad news, from the consumer point of view, is that they consider you a captive from the moment you walk in the door. Even if they know of another lender with better pricing or a program that suits your needs better, they’re still going to keep you “in-house”. And their loan pricing is such that it’s going to pay for all of the salaries and benefits for all of the people in the office, and the beautiful office itself and all of its contents.

A “packaging house” is like a regular lender except that they do their loans with the explicit intention of selling off every single one, either immediately or a few months down the line. Practical difference to consumer: there’s a 100% chance you’re going to end up making payments to someone else. In other words, no big deal. The original lender recently sold my own home loan. The only difference is that now I write the check to company B instead of company A, and mail it to place X instead of place Y. California has stronger consumer mortgage protection laws than the federal government, but there are laws in place nationwide for the consumer’s protection that avoid payments being unjustly marked late because your mortgage was sold.

A broker is not lending their own money, but is being paid instead to put the loan together and get it to the point where it is funded, at which point they are out of the picture. A packaging house could, in theory, decide to keep a particular loan. A broker doesn’t have this option – it’s not their money being loaned, but instead that of a regular lender or a packaging house. On the down side, a broker has somewhat less leverage to get underwriters to make exceptions to the rules (although the difference is academic for those outside this narrow range). There is also a lot of variation on quality. You’ll find the very best loan officers in the country working as loan brokers – and the very worst, as well. On the up side, a broker always has at least the ability to get you a lower price than the other alternatives, although they may not have the willingness. First, a good broker shops many different lenders to find the program that’s priced best for you. This is less important but still very noticeable at the A paper level (A paper had pretty standardized rules) then it is for borrowers whose situations (either through credit, or through needing to do something A paper doesn’t support) need to go to markets lower down on the totem pole. On the other hand, I (as a broker) get better pricing from the lenders, either regular or packaging house, than their own loan officers. Why? Partially because they’re not paying my support expenses – office rent, furnishings, support staff salaries, etcetera. Mostly because it’s my customer, and I can and will take my customer elsewhere if they don’t give me the best possible deal. Every week when I do the family shopping, I see the banks in the local supermarkets offering their mortgage deals, and I always smile because I’m always getting somebody a better price on the same loan from that same lender. (A correspondent lender is a broker with a line of credit to fund loans. The mechanics from a consumer point of view are identical, but because they briefly fund the loan, they’re not getting Yield Spread as legally defined, so they don’t have to treat it as a cost to consumers – which it isn’t).

Caveat Emptor.