Searchlight Crusade – What you need to know about mortages and real estate. Plus more

Changes in Lender Attitudes: The Push Towards Bigger Loans

One of the consumer attitudes I encounter constantly is the feeling that if you cannot afford the loan, the lender will not loan you the money. This safety zone common sense sort of reliance upon lender policy as a backstop is not only false, but one of the best ways to get in trouble with real estate there is.

Once upon a time it may have been true. Back in the dim times fifty years ago, lenders required down payments, and retained their loans for the full duration. This provided at least two levels of protection for the lender. First, if people did default upon their loan, that down payment was a cushion for the lender in that the property was genuinely worth more than the lender had at risk. All real estate loans were done “full documentation”, where the borrower proved they made enough money to make the payments and repay the loan. Underwriting rules were designed to filter out those whose employment was not stable enough, those who couldn’t afford the loans, and those whose creditworthiness was marginal.

At the same time, however, real estate was far more affordable. The inability to get a loan on good terms meant that you were a little further away from the middle class house of your dreams, that you were going to have to save a little more, work a little harder, and perhaps settle for something less than you really wanted, but you could still have a good property. 800 square feet on a fifth of an acre, instead of 1200 square feet on half an acre. These really were typical property choices available then. You saved until you had forty or fifty percent down, instead of twenty, and then you maybe had to look a little bit harder, but it could be done, and people paid cash for their properties all the time. A three or five thousand dollar property was something that people could save the money to pay cash for, even at seventy five cents per hour.

That’s not the case now. Even though people may make $40,000 per year, and the family has two incomes, they are not content with the lifestyle of fifty years ago that enabled people to save a down payment within a couple of years. Nor is employment as stable. People don’t work forty years for The Company any longer.

The changes on the lender end have been even more profound. Lenders discovered making stock valuations rise as a primary method of becoming wealthy. Where once the most important thing to the stockholders was to have every single loan repaid in full, now it becomes more important to have portfolio growth, which makes potential investors willing to pay more for existing stock. Then it became unnecessary to actually hold loans until they ran their course, as investors were willing to pay more than the face value of the loan for the rights to receive payment! This nice dependable mortgage bonds were good as gold! Matter of fact, the money the lenders received by selling the loans was higher than they made by holding the loans. True, they might only make three to four percent from selling the obligation, as opposed to seven percent for the obligation itself, but they could do it in two to three months, as opposed to the entire year. In fact, they could go through the process four, five, or even six times per year: Receive a loan application, provide the funds on a short term basis, and then sell to investors for a three to four percent markup. Instead of earning seven to eight percent on their money per year, they were now earning twenty or twenty five. They could even retain servicing rights, as the investors had no idea how to run the loans, and make even more money. Stock prices would show the effects of growth, as investors expected them to be able to keep in up, and current stockholders could cash out for huge gains by selling part or all of their holdings.

However, you now have a new group of stockholders, who bought – or held existing investments – in the belief that this growth curve could be maintained. They want that growth to keep going – however are they going to sell for a big profit if it doesn’t? If the growth doesn’t continue, how are performance awards to management going to be paid?

And so it goes. Growth begets a need for more growth. Now there’s nothing wrong with growth – quite the contrary – but when the expectations shift over time from a two or three percent annualized growth curve, to eight or ten or even thirteen percent, it creates an expectation that no one wants to fall short on. Furthermore, other people with money, seeing the rewards, join in the lending business. Joe made fifty percent in two years with Bank of Nowhere in Particular! Let’s all invest in that bank! They’ll double our money in three years!

The fact of the matter is that there is only so much revenue growth that can be had in any given set of economic conditions. When you try to overshoot that amount, it can come from very few places. First, it can come at the expense of the competition. Unfortunately for that hope, the lending market grows more competitive, not less. Second, it can come from places that weren’t a part of the market previously – in other words, people who were not good credit risks or who would not have applied in previous markets. The reason most of those would not have applied is that they are less credit worthy, and they know it as well as the lenders do. Third, growth can come through individual loans being larger, being willing to loan more money per property. This has also happened, but you cannot loan more per property without subsequently having more at risk, although the lenders have learned how to solve this. Remember that we discussed them selling the loans? Well, that’s how the lenders limit their risks – by selling to someone else for cash. Let them assume the risks!

So we have increased competition for borrowers, including those who may not have been as solidly credit worthy as a previous day’s client. There are more lenders competing for limited pools of borrowers, and pressure to qualify the borrowers for increased loan amounts, because, after all, that’s how the bank makes money.

Furthermore, shifts in consumer habits played into this. People don’t live in the same house for as long, and they don’t keep loans nearly so long as they once did. Where they once lived in the same house from the time they bought it until they died, now the first house they buy in their twenties is a “starter,” and then they sell that and buy a trade-up when the family expands a little, then another when they move up the corporate ladder, and this leaves out the effects of transfers and changing employers. Furthermore, they refinance and take cash out when they want a bigger SUV or a European vacation, and then they take more money out when the rates go down because they can afford a larger loan on the same payments.

The increased prevalence and availability of the stated income loan has played right into this. Certainly, some people in your profession make that much, but what if you’re not one of them? Simply say that you are! After all, you’re in that profession, right? Furthermore, there is no payoff for loan officers telling people that they don’t qualify. They’ve made up their mind that they want that three thousand square foot six bedroom house, and if you tell them they don’t make enough, they’re not going to give up their dream house! They’ll just find another way to do it, so someone else will get that loan! That nice, wonderfully wonderfully large loan that means a huge commission check to the loan officer and a forty thousand dollar premium on the secondary market for the lender!

Traditionally, the check upon this was the fact that the borrower had to actually make the payments on the loan once they had it, which limits their ability and willingness to sign for more loan than they can handle. However, competition between lenders once again found a way: First, the interest only loan, and then the negative amortization loan solved that problem, particularly as sub-prime lenders make their qualification for the loan based solely upon the initial minimum payment. Whereas when A paper lenders underwrite a hybrid ARM that’s interest only for a given amount of time, they will base their computations upon a fully amortized loan payment, and even assume the rate will rise slightly, that is not the case in the sub-prime world. Sure they’ve bought the property on a 2/28 interest only loan with a three year prepayment penalty, and they bought in a flat or declining market, and they are not going to pay the principal down any in two years, and the property isn’t going to be worth any more, so it’s unlikely they will be able to refinance, and they certainly won’t be able to afford the payments when they adjust, so they’re going to lose the house, but hey! You got a commission check and your lender sold the loan (at a fat markup due to the prepayment penalty), and your employer won’t have any money at risk when they do default! What’s not to like?

So how is a consumer going to protect themselves in this sort of environment? Obviously, you’ve got to start by figuring out a budget and sticking to it. This is hard. This is very unpopular, as far as real estate professionals go. When I sit down with people’s finances and tell them what they can afford with a sustainable loan, the first words out of their mouths are usually, “I can’t afford anything I want with that!” A certain percentage of them just walk out right there, sure that they can find someone else who will tell them they can afford more.

As I’ve just covered, they certainly can find someone who will tell them that they can afford more. However, the reason I sit down and go through the numbers, including today’s rates, what they make, how much they spend, is to show them precisely what they can afford. When somebody shows you real numbers and you deny those numbers, and are certain you can afford more, you are essentially performing magical thinking. “I want it and I deserve it, and this other guy tells me I can just pull myself up by my bootstraps and fly!”

However, loans aren’t magical. In fact, there is nothing magical about loans. You may get a negative amortization payment that you can afford for a while, but the money that you are not paying does not just vanish into thin air. It may be held in abeyance for a while, but it is there, and it will turn around and bite you. You wanted a $600,000 home for a $2000 monthly payment, and you got it for a little while. However, you now owe $680,000 and the property (which you put $50,000 down on) is now only worth $540,000. It doesn’t take a genius to see what happens next. Even if the property increased in value by $100,000, it costs you $55,000 to sell the property and you have to pay $15,000 of their closing costs so that they can qualify for the loan, and that fifty thousand dollars you put down has turned into nothing.

A rapidly increasing market, such as we had for several years ending about the end of 2004, covers a multitude of sins and mistakes. If the property doubled in price over three years, you came away with $400,000 and you were very happy! Unfortunately, this is not the type of market we are in now, nor are we likely to have that sort of market any time again in the forseeable future. It’s always a bad idea to bet on it, because you never know it’s going to happen ahead of time.

So what are you going to have to do? As I said earlier, figure out what your real budget is and stick to it. If you can’t afford anything you want, then want less. Insist upon sustainable loans, and qualifying for them full documentation. Full documentation loans have better interest rates anyway. Fully amortized loans, where you are paying principal and interest, have lower interest rates, as well, and if you stick with A paper guidelines (and 100 percent loans on A paper are possible for people with decent – not spectacular – credit), you get better interest rates and can usually avoid pre-payment penalties.

“I just won’t buy anything if I can’t afford what I want!” some of you are saying. Right now, with prices retreating somewhat, it may even make a limited kind of sense for those with strong credit and stable prospects. However, the market here locally is not going to retreat that much more. Indeed, where prices are is currently being masked by a stubborn type of seller and a not very competent stripe of real estate agent. It doesn’t matter that three fourths of the sellers want $X for property of given characteristics, if the sales that are taking place are $100,000 lower. If this seller won’t sell, someone else will, and it is the sale that actually happens that tells where the market is, not the hundred comparable properties where the asking price is $100,000 higher.

However, real estate, even in markets that are rising just slightly, is such a fantastic investment due the the effects of leverage, that I do not anticipate the local market going much lower. Indeed, very smart investors are swarming, intending to hold the property five years or so instead of flipping it. Yes, we’ve lost between twenty and thirty percent the last two years, but the statistics have been manipulated to make the decline seem much shallower. I’m starting to see evidence of a reversal in the not too distant future, and people who decide to sit on the sidelines because they can’t afford anything that they want are likely to discover themselves being able to afford still less when they do decide to jump into the market – or nothing at all. If you’ve got a family of three and don’t want a two bedroom condo, what are you going to do when you can’t afford that?

Caveat Emptor<

Joint Loans for Couples: How Does the Qualification Process Work

First off, let me say that your site has been very informative and helpful. I stumbled across your blog looking for information on ARM vs. 30 year fixed loans and ended up reading every article.

One issue I have never really seen addressed is joint loans. When a couple, married in this case, gets a loan, which FICO score do they use?

Right now, my wife is a nursing student, when she graduates in August we want to buy a new home that is significantly more expensive than our current home. Our combined salaries at that point should be somewhere around 120K. I have been told by a mortgage professional in our first phone conversation that being a student counts for “years in
line of work”, but we would have to wait until she receives her first paycheck from her new job before we could count her income. We just accepted an offer on our current home last week, and will have enough cash to put down 10% in the price range we are looking at (200-300 K). If we want to buy before she is employed, but has an offer so we know
her salary, what are our options? It seems to me that we would be in a situation where we are doing a Stated Income type loan.

The answer to this is that whoever make more money is the primary borrower. This works with a couple as well as other arrangements. It’s a very simple answer, but you’d be amazed how often I have to repeat it for trainee loan officers. Of course we all want to use whichever score is better, but it’s the person who makes more money whom the lender will consider to be the primary borrower.

Now as far as A paper goes, it’s kind of academic. If you want to use both incomes for the loan, you both have to qualify. This can be an issue when one spouse forgets to pay bills and the other is as a-retentive as I am about it. Over time, spouses credit reports tend to track one another more and more closely, as they switch from single credit accounts to joint accounts. If it’s a joint account, doesn’t matter who forgot to pay the bill – you both take the hit. On the other hand, even long-married spouses don’t tend to have exactly the same score, and in many cases they have intentionally segregated the credit accounts for precisely this reason, that one spouse is better about paying bills. So one spouse has a 760, and the other spouse has a 560. Ouch.

It is to be noted that the superior solution is to have the responsible spouse pay all of the bills, which results in two high credit scores. Why is this important? If one of you has a 760, they may qualify A paper. If the other has a 560, you have a choice: go sub-prime, or have the high scoring spouse be the only person on the loan. In other words, when you’re talking about A paper, you both have to meet the credit score minimums, or you don’t qualify as a couple.

This has implications. Suppose you have a 760 score spouse who makes $3000 per month, and a 560 score spouse who makes $5000 per month, you have a choice: Qualify based upon $3000 per month, go stated income, or drop to sub-prime.

$3000 per month doesn’t qualify for a lot of house most places. So if you’re thinking 3 bedroom house, you can be stuck with small one bedroom condo – if you want the best rates.

The second alternative is going stated income. This only works if the necessary income for the loan is believable for someone in that occupation. Somebody who makes $3000 per month is not likely to be in a profession where $8000 per month is a believable income, and most people tend to overbuy a house rather than under-buy, regardless of the fact that under-buying is a lot more intelligent in most cases.

The third solution is to go sub-prime, where you’ll qualify, but get a higher rate and a prepayment penalty. A single borrower with a 760 credit score gets a better loan, with less of a down payment, than the couple in this case – the primary borrower has a 560 score, remember – but they just won’t qualify for as large of a loan because they can’t afford the payments.

You might also go NINA, which is a “here I am – gotta love me!” approach where income is not verified, nor employment history. The loan you get is based totally upon your credit score and equity picture (how much of a down payment you make, in the case of a purchase). The rate is higher than stated income and the restrictions on equity is greater, but you’ll get a better loan at a better interest rate in most cases for a NINA A paper loan than even a full documentation loan for a 560 score.

Now, as to what you were told, student does not, in general, count as time in line of work. As a question to make why this is obvious: How are you going to compute her average income over the last two years? That is the way full documentation loans are justified. Some sub-prime lenders will accept it (not the better ones), or the person who told you this could just be planning to substitute a stated income loan based upon your income. The fact is, that unless you’re talking ugly sub-prime, they’re not going to accept your wife’s income until there’s some time actually working it. Many people graduate school and never work in the field. They don’t pass licensing, or they decide soon after they start that it’s not for them.

In this case, you are talking stated income unless you go sub-prime. It’s just the way things are computed. Sorry.

As I keep telling folks, there are a lot of shysters out there in my profession. The easiest way to get people to sign up is to promise the moon, and until you get the final loan paperwork you have no way of knowing whether they intend to deliver what they said.

Caveat Emptor

Getting a Loan Provider to Agree to be a Backup Loan

I have repeatedly advised my readers to sign up for a back-up loan if they can find somebody willing. So every once in a while, I get email like this:

Hi! Would you be willing to do my backup loan? I’m already signed up with my brother-in-law but you tell people to get a backup loan so I’m asking you.

No loan officer with any sanity is going to agree to that request. You’ve already made up your mind who is doing your loan. You are not honestly shopping your loan, and you’re kidding yourself if you think you are. You’re not likely to evaluate your brother-in-law’s loan critically when it comes to final signing, you’re just going to sign on the dotted line. So the back-up loan officer is going to spend hundreds of dollars and a lot of time pushing your loan through for zero prospect of getting paid. Suppose your asked you to work through the weekend, and maybe a couple extra nights, spend about a week’s worth of your own pay, but that you wouldn’t be paid, you wouldn’t get a bonus, and it wouldn’t be considered at your next review. That’s essentially what you’re asking them to agree to with the above scenario. There is no carrot whatsoever in the case of loan officers, because (unlike employers) you’re not paying them at any other time, either. Quite frankly, I’d rather spend the time trying to find another client, or with my family, or doing anything else. I’m not interested in wasting my time on backup loans like that, and neither is any other loan officer.

Disclosure: at this update, nobody is really doing backup loans. In order to promise a loan at a given rate and cost, you have to lock it, and lenders have made that too expensive for anything you’re not sure will close. But I’ll tell you what you need to do in case that changes back.

The first thing you have to do if you’re hoping for someone to agree to be a backup loan provider is give them an honest chance at being the primary loan. You have to shop them before you have signed up with anyone. You have to have the whole loan officer conversation with several loan officers: what you’ve got, where you want to get to, your situation, etcetera. Don’t forget to ask the Questions You Should Ask Prospective Loan Providers. They go out and price the loan, and get back to you with what they can do. If you are actually signed up with someone else prior to this point, you have not honestly shopped your loan, and no loan officer in the world is going to agree to provide a backup, not to mention that you have placed yourself completely at the mercy of the loan officer you signed up with. There never was any real chance that other loan officers could actually earn your business. It’s like going to an auto dealer and asking them to special order a car for you, despite the fact that you’ve already paid another dealer, are not going to put down a deposit, and indeed, really want to do business with the other dealer, but hey, you want them to do this for you on the chance that other dealer cannot deliver. If you have any doubts, why did you order with the other dealer, or more precisely, why did you sign up with your brother in law for the loan? Especially prior to checking with anyone else?

So after honestly shopping your loan, you obviously need to make a choice. Now the reason I advise people to get a back-up loan is because everything you are told when you make that choice could very well be a lie. With the majority of loan companies, either the federal Good Faith Estimate or the California MLDS are subject to all kinds of misrepresentation, intentional misquoting, etcetera. If this were not the case, there would be no need to sign up for a back up loan. The purpose of signing up for a back up loan is to give yourself another option if, when you go to sign final documents, the loan they actually offer you a contract for is different from the loan they dangled to get you to sign up, that they have been talking about all this time but at the moment of truth they don’t really have it. Whether it’s a different rate, has closing costs thousands of dollars higher, thousands of dollars added to your loan amount that they conveniently “forgot” to tell you about, has a pre-payment penalty when they told you it didn’t, is a completely different kind of loan than they told you about in the first place, or even all of the above, the loan isn’t what got you to sign up. In some cases, they don’t have a loan at all, and are stringing you along in hopes that they will have a loan Real Soon Now. If you only have one loan ready to go, your options are limited to “sign on the dotted line or don’t.” If you’ve made a substantial deposit on a property you are buying and all of a sudden you don’t have a loan, guess what? You will probably lose that deposit. So people will sign on the dotted line, even for refinances, when it’s not the same loan they were led to believe they were getting in the first place. Hence, my advice to sign up for a back-up loan. That gives you the option of signing the other loan officer’s loan contract, and the mere fact that someone else also has a loan ready to go is much better leverage than anything else you can do to get them to produce the loan they said they had in the first place. You can use the first loan officer’s loan as a club for your back-up, too, if need be.

But if you’re not going to evaluate your primary loan officer’s loan critically, if you’re not going to go through the paperwork and make sure that rate, terms, and costs is indeed, as described, that back-up loan officer has just wasted all of their work, and all of their money. Excuse them if they are less than enthusiastic about doing that when there is no prospect of getting paid. It’s not like they are being paid an hourly wage. If that loan doesn’t close, they get nothing for all that time and effort. People work to earn money, even if they really do like their job.

So what you’ve got to do, preferably before you make a final choice for your primary, is ask your number two prospect about your number one prospect’s loan. Does loan officer number two think offer number one is deliverable? I assure you that good loan officers know what is and isn’t really deliverable. Whether the answer is “Yes” or “No”, you’ve got some useful information. If the answer is “Yes,” you know that what the low bid is talking about is possible. Whether they will actually deliver it or not is a different question. The way to bet is that they will not, unless they are willing to offer you a written Loan Quote Guarantees. If you ask for a Loan Quote Guarantee, most lenders and loan officers will not give you one. Instead, they will try to distract you with BS about how they are thus and such reputable company, and they honor their commitments. This is nonsense. Neither the Good Faith Estimate, Mortgage Loan Disclosure Statement, Truth In Lending form, or any of the other standard forms that you get at loan sign up, is in any way a commitment or a guarantee. They are only estimates, and they may be accurate estimates or they may be the biggest lie since the invention of the one night stand. Furthermore, loan officers don’t write loan commitments. That is the exclusive province of underwriters, whom you will never communicate with directly. The most that loan officers can promise is that if the underwriter approves it, the loan will be on a given set of terms, and that is the sort of Loan Quote Guarantee you should look for.

Now, if the second lowest loan provider says “no,” that the lowest’s rate is not deliverable, that is your opening. “Well, tell you what, Mr. Loan Officer,” you say, “If you’re certain that loan quote is not deliverable, and that yours is, how about you agree to be my back-up loan provider? If they don’t deliver on those terms, as you say they won’t, and you do deliver on yours, I’ll take your loan. What do you say?”

What they are most likely going to do, of course, is try and talk you into being the primary, and to forget this nonsense about back-up loans. After all, he (or she) is a sales person. If you do what they want, this puts them in the cat-bird seat thirty days down the line instead of your number one choice. And you know, if they are willing to give a Loan Quote Guarantee and the number one choice isn’t, I’d probably make them my primary. Ask anyone who’s dealt with construction contractors if they’d rather take a bid of $X that is just an estimate, or $X plus 5% that has good solid guarantees behind it? Same principle here. The one that’s willing to guarantee their work gets the business, or at least first crack at it.

Now suppose number two won’t agree to provide a back-up? Then ask number three. Suppose number one is going to try to hinder your back up loan? You need to explain that you fully intend to go with them, and that if they provide the loan on the terms they told you about, they are going to get the business, but you’re providing yourself with an insurance policy, just in case they won’t, and their attempts to sabotage that insurance policy are likely to force you to cancel your loan with them. Tell them that if they are really going to deliver what they said they would, their loan will be better than the competition’s, so there will be no reason to choose the other loan, so their attempts to obstruct or sabotage the other loan have you thinking that maybe you should cancel their loan, because their actions are indicative of being nervous about their own loan. Be blunt, be truthful, and carry through on your threat to cancel if they keep being an obstacle to the back up. If they need to obstruct a worse loan, it’s because they have no intention of delivering the better one. Carry through on your promise to cancel – and then go find yourself a new insurance policy.

Signing up for a back up loan is the cheapest, smartest thing you can do to protect yourself in one of the largest dollar value transactions of your life. But if there isn’t a real possibility of getting the business, no loan officer in the world is going to agree to be your back up. You need to demonstrate to them that there is a real possibility of their loan being the one you actually sign the loan contract for at the end of the process, or they are not going to be interested. The type of email that is referenced at the top of the article isn’t to protect yourself. It’s to mollify your conscience, because you know you didn’t really shop your loan around, and you know you’re going to pay more than you need to, unless you get struck by pure dumb luck. The point of reading the consumer education here is that you don’t want to rely on pure dumb luck.

Caveat Emptor

Games Lenders Play Part II More Misleading Advertising

(This was originally published September 29,2005)

Here’s another advertisement that I got in the mail:

“Pick a Pay, Any Pay!’ The Revolutionary Option ARM!” “Start rates as low as 1%!” Loan amount $100,000 Payment $321.64
$200,000 $643.28
$300,000 $964.92
$400,000 $1286.56
Could this help save you money?

Let’s see, given the real rate on these, there is negative amortization of about $500 to start with per month on the $300,000 loan, compounded over the three years the pre-payment penalty is in effect. Cost me $19,000 to “save” this money – even if the underlying rate doesn’t rise. Not counting what it costs to do the loan. Or I refinance out of it and pay a pre-payment penalty of about $9200.

Doesn’t matter the friendly sounding name you give it. An option ARM is a Pick-a-pay is a negative amortization loan.

What this guy (in this case) is hoping is that you’ll be so enticed by this “low payment” that you won’t ask questions. These are easy loans to sell to people who don’t understand them, and impossible to those who do unless you’re the person it’s really designed for. Indeed, many prospective clients do not want the problems with this loan explained to them. It’s like they’ve chosen to be insulated from reality for a time.

But this is no surgical anaesthetic. Most folks are going to want to be homeowners for the rest of their lives, and unless your income has increased commensurate with your loan balance (and prospective interest rate increases) I guarantee you that the pain will go on for quite a long time after the time of “affordable low payments”. I’d rather not shoot myself in the foot in the first place.

Buyers Who Don’t Want A Buyer’s Agent

You see it all the time at open houses and elsewhere. People who desperately need buyer’s agents, but think of Buyer’s Agents in the same way they think of automobile sales folk, and that’s the complete opposite of the way it is.

They don’t want to deal with an agent, because an agent will use high pressure tactics, convince them that this property is the one they want even if there’s better stuff out there cheaper, and trick them into signing on the dotted line. Or so they think.

Actually, the above person is part of the transaction. They’re called the Listing Agent, and they’re the one you’re going to deal with regardless of whether you want an agent or not. It is their job to get that property sold. They have a fiduciary responsibility to the owner of that property to get it sold for the best possible price in the shortest amount of time. They only responsibility they have to the buyer is that they’re not supposed to lie, mislead, or conceal the truth. All of those are tough to prove. If they can sell the property for $100,000 more than neighboring properties in better shape are selling for, they have done nothing else except their job. They have no responsibility to tell you there’s a better deal around the corner. To a listing agent, the only importance of a better buy three blocks over is to hope you don’t discover it.

Lest you think I am kidding or in any way exaggerating, consider this: Within five miles of my office are at least 100 Planned Unit Developments (PUDs) built within the last three years. These are legally condominiums, but they have detached walls. Most often, the developer puts up a 1700 to 2000 square foot two story dwelling, separated by maybe six feet from the next dwelling over. In many of these, the first thing most of the inhabitants do every morning is greet their neighbors in the next unit over, then get out of bed. Not that I’m against condos – I’m not – but the townhome I bought in 1991 has more privacy than most of these, and it’s got a shared wall. The inhabitants of PUDs usually – not always – have a small quasi-private back yard, and the units may or may not have shared walls. The garage is always within the walls of the unit, because they are packed so tight there is no room for a driveway or outside parking. The developer slapped on false granite counters and travertine floors at a cost of maybe $300 extra, and with their in-house agents who dealt swiftly and efficiently with those who come to look, sold them for $100,000 to $150,000 more than comparable dwellings sitting on 8000 square foot lots and without a homeowner’s association (and association dues) to deal with. Those PUDs are not going to be new forever – and as a matter of fact there are a much larger than representative percentage of the new owners trying without much success to sell them right now. Whether they decided they didn’t like their neighbors whom they practically share a master bedroom with, they want a place with a yard where they can build a pool or even just a horseshoe pit, or that they want to paint the place a slightly different shade of off-white (and can’t), they are finding out the difficulties, and trying to sell. But they’re asking the same kind of prices they bought them for, and without the massive marketing campaign the developer used, it’s not working. When you’re trying to sell 20 units on what used to be two lots totaling half an acre, you can afford the kind of marketing campaign that pulls in the suckers. At $520,000 each for twenty units that cost you $150,000 each to build, if you spend $100,000 on advertising, you’ll make it back in spades. Not so much if you spent that $520,000 buying one of those units and now the market has declined and you need $570,000 to break even – and I’m finding my prospects single family homes on their own 8000 square foot lots for $420,000, where they can spend a lot less than $150,000 putting in travertine if they’ve got to have it.

A Buyer’s Agent is not the person who’s out to sell you their property no matter what. That’s the Listing Agent’s job. A Buyer’s Agent is there to represent the buyer’s interests, the same as the Listing Agent represents the seller’s. Buyer’s agents aren’t car lot sales folk. They’re like the folks who make a good living representing people who don’t want to deal with car lot sales folk, so they charge people who want to buy a car $300 and save them a couple of grand off the sales price.

Buyer’s Agents don’t make their living selling one specific property. They make their living helping people to find and buy the property that is the best bargain for them. It is a Buyer’s Agent’s job to point out all of the little and not so little stuff I talked about two paragraphs ago, as well as a lot of other stuff I haven’t talked about here. Buyer’s Agents make their living getting buyers a better bargain – just like Listing Agents make their living getting sellers more money for their property. Real estate is a lot more costly than automobiles, and a lot more games get played. The Buyer’s Agent is the one with the responsibility to say “Slow down, let’s stop and check out everything else that’s available, and consider the state that the market is really in – and where it’s likely to go,” not to capitalize upon the emotion of the moment and get the prospect sucker’s signature upon dotted line before they walk off the lot. So long as they stick to a real budget, that Buyer’s Agent gets paid about the same no matter what you buy – and the happier you are when it’s all over, the more likely it is that they will get paid again when you send them your friends, or when you come back again when you’re ready to move up or buy an investment property.

This is not to say that Buyer’s Agent’s won’t play games; this is why I use and recommend non-exclusive buyer’s agency agreements to stop most of them. These agreements give the buyer’s agent everything they really need – assurance that if they find the property you want, they will be the one getting paid the buyer’s agent commission – while not committing you to work only with them. If they waste your time, don’t get the job done, if they act more like a Listing Agent, or if you just decide they’re not putting your interests first, you stop working with them and that’s the end of it. Unlike the exclusive agency agreement which locks you in to dealing with that agent, and four months after the last time you see them you might still be obligated to pay them a commission on a property somebody else showed you, the non-exclusive agreement lets you go your own way, and so you have nothing to lose by signing it, unless you’re the sort who will stiff someone who’s done work for you. Let’s face it, the Buyer’s Agent finds you a property you think is worthwhile, you are doing yourself no favors to ditch them in favor of your brother-in-law who didn’t or couldn’t do the same, or the discounter who doesn’t do anything, but generously allows you to keep half the commission which they did precisely zero good for you to earn. Who do you think will get you the better deal: The agent who went around with you to ten or fifteen properties (and looked at forty others that weren’t worth your time) and knows the market that property is competing against, or the agent who only leaves the office to cash commission checks? Who’s going to negotiate harder? Who’s going to have more negotiating power? Which agent is more likely to get your the better total bargain? There are exceptions, of course, and sometimes the long shot beats the triple crown winner, too. But that’s not where smart money bets when the payoff is structured on strictly one to one odds, as it is here.

Now buyer’s agents do get paid, but it’s out of the commission that the seller has agreed to pay no matter who sells the property, or for what price. Buyer’s Agents will make more difference to the sales price – not to mention the quality of the property you end up with – than any reduction in price you might get by agreeing not to use one. They’re out there in the market all the time. They know the market you’re in, and they know the tricks in ways that you, the buyer, are not going to equal, unless you spend the time it takes to learn everything they know. And unless you’re a buyer’s agent yourself, you pretty much can’t. You’ve got your own living to make. What are the chances they could do better than you at your profession? The odds are not good; Even if they have the book learning, they don’t have your experience. Why would you think the situation is any different when the roles get reversed?

Caveat Emptor

Racial Gap In Home Loans

Racial Gap in Loans Is High in California.

I can give a variety of reasons for this.

First off, especially in Los Angeles but to a lesser extent throughout the state, there is a huge “Spanish speaking only” community. When you limit yourself to speakers of a language which isn’t the nation’s primary business tongue, you limit your ability to find loan officers who will treat you honestly and fairly and find you the best possible loan. I speak reasonable Spanish myself, but not nearly enough to do a loan.

Second, those who speak Spanish only are ripe pickings for unscrupulous loan officers and real estate agents. Because they do not understand English, the language the regulations are written in, they have less understanding of what is a complicated and confusing process for anyone who is not a practicing professional. In fact, I can name a lot of alleged professionals who speak English and are nonetheless limited in the comprehension of the process to judge by the evidence.

Third, those who speak Spanish only have a lesser understanding of their rights under the law, and since the vast majority of all loan documents are in English (a few lenders are starting to generate a few documents in Spanish, but not every document, and it will never be the main copy of anything), they have a lesser understanding of what they are agreeing to.

(Gee, I hope the preceding helps the “Spanish only” lobby of separatists understand what they’re setting up for the people whose benefit they are allegedly advocating.)

But more importantly than all of the preceding, real estate and loans are “sales connection” businesses. Because most people do not shop for homes or home loans in a rational fashion. “I can’t be rational! This is far too important for that!” Seems silly, but it’s true. People buy or do business with you because you have made them more comfortable, or because they think you can do something nobody else can or will for them. They do business because they connect with you on some level, not because what you’re offering is the best thing out there.

Identity politics exacerbates this. There are agents out there (often but not always necessarily of the same ethnicity) whose niche market is “black folks”, or “Spanish speakers” or “Koreans”. Some people will do business just because you’re the same, or because they feel some kind of cultural connection. Others will do business because that agent or loan officer helped their brother, or friend, whether said brother was the toughest deal in creation or the easiest thing they ever did. And if your brother had to do something, or had something happen, it’s only normal it should happen to you, too – right? One of the standard phrases in the sales lexicon is “My you were tough, but we got it done! How about some referrals.” This by itself is not evil. But if you’ve taken advantage of someone as if they were a tough loan when in fact they were not and could have gotten a better deal from someone else, you’re lining your pocket at your client’s expense. Everybody deserves to get paid for a job well done. But when my contacts in the escrow and title business tell me about people who only serve this ethnic market or that ethnic market who have six percent state of California limits on their compensation externally applied to every single loan they do, or how these people consistently have a sales compensation a full percent above the market, that tells me something: that these alleged professionals are taking undue advantage of their target market. Many of these people they are targeting literally have no way of knowing there is something better out there. Are their tactics illegal? No. Unethical? In at least some cases. Taking advantage of client ignorance? Definitely.

The process of purchasing, selling, or financing real estate is byzantine, with rules and regulations that get more complex every year. The average citizen has difficulty understanding the things that may be relevant to their particular transaction (I’ve had to explain to lawyers how they got taken in their previous transaction). To most people, the whole thing is like some immensely complicated magical ritual. Place the proper documents at the foot of the underwriting god, dance three time sunwise and four times widdershins round the appraisal every day for a fortnight, pray with the high priests of insurance, and you get your house.

It has elements in common, I will admit. But the processes of real estate sales and real estate loans are coldly, brutally, logical once you understand them. Unfortunately, the odds of understanding are stacked even further against those who are apart from the majority of society. Those who are concerned with minorities having inferior loans would have more success in connecting the people to the mainstream of society than in considering further burdensome anti-discrimination legislation.

Caveat Emptor

Naming Beneficiaries – Do It, and Keep Them Current

what happen when 401K leave blank on beneficiary

Nothing unless you die, and it’s not covered in your will or other documents. Then the state’s intestate code takes effect. Each state has a law for how the estates of those who die intestate will be divvied up. These laws were typically made generations ago, and the societal assumptions that they make are no longer valid. Furthermore, by failing to name a beneficiary, you are passing up on the chance to avoid probate, the legal process by which your estate is gotten to your heirs. Everybody has a probate, and fees are levied on the basis of the value of the assets that are in probate. For many assets, such as bank accounts and investment accounts, avoiding probate is as easy as naming someone a beneficiary, and any accounts where you have names someone a beneficiary go to them immediately upon proof of your death, outside of probate.

This is important because your heirs do not have access to probated assets until probate is settled. This is a minimum of nine months, and in large complex cases can be a couple of decades. Probate fees are about seven percent per year, and until probate is settled, they might get to live in the house you left – but they can’t sell the house if they need to move, or if, for instance, all of your assets are tied up in probate and they can’t make the payments on the loan.

Most people do not understand the naming of beneficiaries, and never give it a second thought. Many times this translates to the first spouse still being the beneficiary of a policy of life insurance, when you divorced without children fifteen years ago, and now your second spouse has two young children to bring up without you, and without your life insurance proceeds. Even if the first spouse is generous enough to disclaim the money, since you obviously did not name your second spouse as a beneficiary, the money now has to go through probate.

Contingent beneficiaries are also important. Primary beneficiaries sometimes predecease you, or perish in the same accident. One common (and often worthwhile) tactic is to name spouses as primary beneficiaries, children as contingent beneficiaries. Many accounts allow the naming of secondary contingent beneficiaries as well. One approach is to name them individually, another to name them as a class (“all natural and adopted children of John and Jane Smith”), and two ways of accounting for as yet unknown numbers of people who may be born later, “per stirpes” which is by branch, and “per capita” which is by head.

Every time you have a major life event, such as marriage, divorce, birth of a child, or the death of someone who is one of your beneficiaries, you should make a habit of going through all of your accounts and making certain the beneficiary designations are up to date with the new developments. Of course, if you have trusts and the like, this is also an ongoing requirement for them, and trusts are even better for avoiding unnecessary estate complications.

Caveat Emptor

Loan Qualification Standards – “Loanbusters”

This is definitely not a “Who you gonna call?”

I’ve done a couple articles on the two ratios, debt to income and loan to value. These are the basic and most important parts of loan qualification. Nonetheless, there exist a plethora of reasons why someone can be turned down for a loan even though they make it on the ratios.

The first of these is time in line of work. “A paper” from Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac looks for two years in the exact same line of work. One change that trips a lot of people is going from being employed by a company to being self employed in the same line of work. Believe it or not, a promotion can also sink a loan if your job title changed, for instance from salesperson to sales manager. If it was with the same company, it can sometimes be okay, but if you changed companies to get the promotion, that’s a really tough loan. Subprime loans will accept shorter time periods, but real subprime is almost nonexistent today.

Making payments on time is probably the most common deal buster for A paper. In general, you are allowed no more than one mortgage late, or no more than two other lates within the last two years, a late being defined as thirty days or more delinquent. The reason does not matter. It does not matter how justified you were in not paying. The fact remains that you are reported as being late. The only way to remove these reports is for the company to admit it was in error in reporting you late. Many people will not pay the charge as it gets marked later and later and later. This is self defeating. Pay it now, dispute it afterwards. Yes, it’s harder to get your money back – but the money it saves you on your home loan is typically much larger.

Store credit cards are one of the biggest headaches here. If you buy merchandise with a generic credit card, you’ve got the card company, who are neutral, looking at the transaction. Both you and the merchant are their customers, and the merchant needs to take credit cards. They’re not going to quit taking them. If you use your store credit card, the dispute department is pretty much guaranteed to take the view that you bought that merchandise at their store and therefore you owe the money. I run across five or six store card problems for every generic card problem I encounter.

Bankruptcy is another deal buster. People in Chapter 13, or just out of Chapter 7. Most banks won’t touch them. It’s not really rational, but you there you are. Some lender are fine with them, however. This is one place where going to a broker or a correspondent is likely to save you, because they know what lenders will take a Chapter 7. (Chapter 13 is almost certain to kill you via late payments, disqualifying you from A paper)

Reserves can be a deal buster. There actually is a reserves requirement for regular full documentation A paper, but it’s pretty much a non-issue as responsible people get uncomfortable if they can’t lay hands on a month’s mortgage payment. Reserves were really an issue for stated income loans when we had stated income loans. A paper stated income required six months PITI reserves somewhere that you can get to it. Subprime is less demanding, but if you don’t have the lender’s requirements, you won’t get the loan. Would you loan hundreds of thousands of dollars to someone with absolutely no cash in the bank? Payment shock, where your monthly cost of housing is increasing, can increase the reserve requirements. You were paying $1200 per month for housing, now you’ll be paying $2000. That takes some adjustments to lifestyle, and some people take a while to adjust.

Related Party Transfers are another questionable point. All of the background for loans assumes that the transaction is between unrelated parties, who have no reason to cooperate in order to do the lender dirt. If you’re buying the house from your brother or some other family member, that assumption goes out the window. Ditto between partners and their partnerships, and so on. Some lenders will do them, others won’t. Some will but charge extra. Others will but have special requirements. Whatever they are, you have to meet them.

The appraisal coming in low is another. The lender evaluates the property on a “lower of cost or market” basis. The Appraisal is the “market” part of that, and the lender will only loan money based upon the lower of these two methods of evaluation. I have people tell me all the time that their new purchase is worth $20,000 more than the appraised value (or the purchase price). No it isn’t. By definition – it’s worth what a willing buyer and a willing seller agree upon. The bank’s evaluations are necessarily conservative, and they don’t want to take over the property. They’re not in that business. They want you to pay back the loan. That’s the business they’re in.

Late payments. Whatever you do, while the loan is in progress, keep making all your payments on time. Whether just indirectly due to the credit score dropping, or directly because now you’ve got a(nother) thirty day mortgage late, this can raise your rate or even break the loan.

Sourcing and seasoning of funds to close. Just because you’ve got $100,000 in the bank doesn’t mean the bank is happy. Nobody rational keeps that kind of money outside of investment accounts. At least nobody rational who needs a loan – Bill Gates might. Lots of folks attempt to hide loans that way. The bank is going to what to see that you’ve had it a while (seasoning) or prove where you got it from (sourcing). If you really just got $400,000 from the sale of a previous property, you’re going to have the escrow papers and HUD 1.

Final credit check: I have a set spiel I go through, “Until this loan is funded and recorded, don’t breathe different without getting my okay. Make the payments you’ve been making. Make them on time. Don’t take out any new credit. Don’t allow anyone (other than mortgage providers!) to run your credit. Just before the loan gets recorded, the lender will pull a final credit report. Woe be unto the person whose situation has deteriorated, and it means we’ll have to start all over again, if there even is a loan that makes sense.”

Failures of verification. Three biggies here: employment, rent or mortgage, and deposit. I do not know why people bother lying, but they do. Don’t you be one of them. World of hurt if the lender wants to prove a point. Don’t quit your job, don’t change anything about your employment. I once had a guy quit to become an independent contractor two days before the loan due to be was funded. Guess what? No loan.

Lines of credit/credit history/no credit score: Most lenders want to see at least 3 lines of credit with a 24 month history of making payments on time. Freezing your credit cards in ice is a wonderful idea, but you need to use them to demonstrate a payment history. Once per month, I use mine for something small and stupid that I would otherwise pay cash for – just to show payment history (it also helps your credit score). Pay if off as soon as the bill gets there. Waivers for two lines of credit are fairly easy, but if a given bureau doesn’t know you have two open lines of credit, they may not score your credit profile. If you don’t have at least two credit scores among the big three – no loan.

Property is structurally unsound, is not certified for habitation, unsuitable or not zoned for intended use, etcetera. Wouldn’t you really find out about this before you have a very large debt to pay? Okay, this can cost you money, but it’s a “Thank (deity) I found out now!” moment. Finding out now means you can change your mind while it’s still the seller’s $400,000 problem, before it’s your $400,000 problem.

So there you have them, most of the most common reasons why loans – and therefore real estate deals – fall through for people that are otherwise qualified.

Caveat Emptor

Title Searches Missing a Lien

I refinanced my house and an existing lien was not discovered

Now the important question: Is it a valid lien, or has it really been paid, and just not released of record? If it has been paid, you don’t owe money simply because the lien on your property was not properly paid off. If you can prove it was paid off, either by yourself or a previous owner, you’re out of the woods.

Since you are asking the question, however, I’m going to assume that it is a valid lien. Most are. You owe the money. It doesn’t magically go away simply because the title company (or lawyer doing the title search) missed it.

Now, assuming you live in a title insurance state, it should make no difference to the state of your mortgage. You bought a lender’s policy of title insurance as part of your transaction, and the title policy insures the lender from loss due to the extra lien.

You still owe the money, of course. Like any other bill, just because you neglected to pay it off or neglected to pay it on time does not mean you somehow don’t owe the money. If it was in effect from before you bought the property, though, your owners policy of title insurance should kick in and pay it off. That’s the way title insurance works – they tell you about known issues with your title, and then they insure (almost) everything else. They’ll then go after the previous owner, of course. That’s what subrogation is all about. They stepped in and paid to keep you from getting damaged, but they now assume the right to receive the money from the person who damaged you. If you live in an attorney title search state, my understanding is that you are going to have to sue the attorney involved, but suing attorneys is a tough proposition, and you can’t recover the base lien, only increased damages resulting from that attorney’s negligence. If the previous owner was really responsible for it, the title insurer is going to have to run them down and file a lawsuit, and quite often the previous owner has no assets that they can get at.

If the lien was your doing, as most are, you’re going to have to start making an effort to pay that lien. How much of an effort depends upon whether you have a lender’s policy of title insurance. If you do, it’s really no huge deal, because the lender has access to the checkbook of a national megacorporation. If you don’t, the lender can potentially force you to pay it in cash right now. They can also force you to refinance by calling your loan, or to take out a second mortgage to pay the lien off in many cases. It’s possible they might just pay it and tack it on to your balance, usually boosting your payment in the process. Talk to a real estate lawyer in your state for details, but the lender is not generally going to leave an uncovered lien in place, when the pricing they gave you for that loan was predicated upon there not being such a lien. Since the lien predates their loan, it’s almost certainly senior to it, by which I mean that if something happens and you have to sell the property to pay off the liens, it gets paid before your mortgage. The lender is not usually going to tolerate that.

Now suppose that you got a thirty year fixed rate loan at 5% back in 2003, and suppose rates have gone up to seven and a half percent by the time you rediscover the lien. The lender can do better with that money from your loan, and so they are going to want to seize upon any excuse to make you pay it off. This, all by itself, is a really good reason to be careful with your liens.

If you intentionally hid the lien, the lender may even sue for fraud in many jurisdictions. If you intentionally hid it, for instance, it’s quite likely that your policy of title insurance won’t cover you, and the lender is going to be very unhappy about that.

Most people, however, don’t intentionally hide a lien, they just forgot it was there, and when the title search comes up empty any worries in the back of their mind went away. If they even think about it, they mentally write it off. “Oh, I must have forgotten that I paid it.” You still owe the money, and now that it’s discovered, you’re going to have to start paying on it, but if they’ve got lender’s title insurance the lender shouldn’t freak.

Now, missing liens is actually fairly rare, but once title insurers miss them, they usually will not be caught on subsequent title searches, because the title company will use the previous title search as a starting point (around here, they actually call them “starters”, but I don’t know how widespread the practice is) for their new title search. Sometimes they do catch them, and ask the previous title company for an indemnity (which basically says that the previous title company is still liable for having missed it).

Caveat Emptor

The Perfect Time To Buy

There is no such thing, of course. The perfect time to buy would mean that you have all kinds of leverage, and can make sellers give you pretty much the deal you want, but prices are nonetheless rising rapidly so that you will have a large amount of equity the first time you need or want to refinance, or if you need to relocate.

These two conditions never go together. If buyers have all the leverage, as they do right now, they are certainly not going to opt for increasing prices. Sellers can gripe and moan about it all they want, but prices are slowly decreasing right now (or were when this was originally written), and they aren’t going to go up until all of the extra inventory clears. Supply and Demand. Two years ago there might have been 4000 residential properties on the market locally at any one time. The last time I checked, there were about 22,000. That means 18,000 additional sellers are competing for no more than the same number of buyers (fewer by my count). If they don’t really want to sell, if they just want to sabotage other sellers by adding to apparent inventory, that’s no skin off the buyers’ noses. If sellers want to actually sell the property, they’ve got to compete in order to attract those potential buyers. It’s not like buyers just go out there and buy the property whose owner’s turn it is to sell. They buy the best property for them at the cheapest price. So sellers can either compete by having a cheaper price, or they can compete by having a better property. Most house bling does not recover the money you spend on it, even in a seller’s market, but it might give you the wedge you need to attract a buyer in a buyer’s market – provided that your property is no more expensive than the comparables. Most sellers are still in denial about this. They’ve got something a little bit better than the comparables, they want to ask $50,000 more, and then they wonder why their property isn’t selling.

If you’re looking for a time when property prices are increasing by twenty percent per year, by all means wait. Those conditions are called “seller’s markets,” because people who are willing to sell can get buyers to do pretty much everything they want, including pay more than the last seller got. Most sellers want to hold when prices are going like that, and buyers are desperate to acquire. High demand, low supply.

Personally, I think conditions are as good as they get for buyers, if you’re going to hang around three years or more. Yes, prices are deflating and you’re likely to lose some money on paper. But trying to time the market so that you buy at exactly the moment when it hits bottom is an exercise in futility. Trying to “Time the market,” whether stocks, bonds, or real estate, is a recipe for disaster. It’s great if it happens, but it’s sheer luck, and anyone who tells you different is lying. By the time people realize that prices are really going up again, buyers will come out of the woodwork and we’ll be in a seller’s market again.

Buyer’s markets, where sellers outnumber buyers like they do now, do not last long, in large part due to the fact that once everyone figures out that prices are no longer declining, now everybody suddenly wants to buy. Inventory has usually been shrinking for quite some time before that happens. As a matter of fact, I just checked, and in the week or ten days since the last time I looked, local inventory has dropped by 1700 units (call it 7 percent), mostly due to people who don’t have to sell removing their properties from the market.

Buy while the ratio of sellers to buyers is in the thirties, while you can pick and choose your properties, and if one seller won’t play ball, the one down the street who’s a little more desperate will. If you need some special consideration, like a seller carryback of part of the purchase price, you may find sellers who will be willing to cooperate because that’s the only way they will get the property sold. If you wait until the market heats up and there are only five sellers per buyer, they’re a lot more likely to tell you to take a hike with special requests like that. If I want cash, why should I loan it to someone with poor credit at a below market rate if it’s likely that I’ll find another buyer in a week?

On top of this right now is the time of year. Other things being equal, Christmas season is always the best time of year to shop for a property, because nobody wants to move the Christmas tree. Seriously, most people have enough extra stuff going on at Christmas that they don’t want to add another major item: buying or selling their home. Those sellers who have their property on the market need to sell.

Nonetheless, with inventory finally dropping, and as fast as it is dropping, I wouldn’t be surprised at all if the market started turning better for sellers and worse for buyers next selling season. Once that starts to happen, expect prices to stabilize and then start to rise again, and the period of best deals for buyers to be over.

Caveat Emptor