One of the most common things I’m seeing as I roam about the East County looking for bargains: Agents not doing their jobs.
Now single family detached homes that are priced appropriately are selling, and for appropriate prices, even at 37 sellers per buyer. Condominiums aren’t moving unless they are brand new with lots of glitter, but appropriately priced detached homes are selling. I can find all of the evidence of this you would care to see, because I’ve already seen it. Willing buyers and willing sellers. It’s just that what an appropriate price is has shifted.
Let’s change mental gears here for a moment. Here’s the real differences between sellers markets and buyers market: Competition. Specifically, which side of the sale is competing. In seller’s markets, which is the mindset most sellers and most listing agents are still in, buyers are competing to buy the properties that are for sale. Because of this it is the buyers who have to compete to look attractive – highest offer, quickest offer, fewest contingencies. They have to offer more money or a bigger deposit or something else that the seller needs and nobody else wants to do. With the buyers market we have now, it’s the sellers who have to compete, and most of them are not doing it very well.
I want to make very clear that sellers are always competing against other sellers, even in the strongest seller’s market possible. But in a buyer’s market, it’s not enough to have your property “out there.” In a seller’s market, the prices will often catch up to unrealistic asking prices, given time. In a buyer’s market, prices are not increasing, and in this strong of a buyer’s market, they are going down. In other words, the longer it takes, the worse you look. You have to have some stand out aspect to your property. It can be physical attractiveness, or it can be low price. Price will get buyers in the door, but it takes a strong agent to sell a fixer to the average buyer, no matter how attractively priced, because the scumbag with the office down the street will show them something a little more attractive that they really cannot afford, but with a negative amortization loan, done stated income, they can make it look like they can afford the payments, and a buyer who hasn’t had this explained to them ahead of time will think they’ve just gotten the Taj Mahal for the price of a dirt floor shack, except of course, they haven’t. And the other way to stand out is to be priced the same, but more attractive. Don’t tell buyers you’ll give them a carpet allowance, replace the carpet. Don’t tell buyers that all they have to do is spend two months and $20,000 fixing it and they’ll have a property worth $20,000 more. That won’t wash in a buyer’s market, if it ever does. The party who does the work, even of engaging a contractor, gets the payoff. Why should your buyers take the risk and do all that work and spend $20,000 cash that most buyers don’t have (and cannot be part of the purchase money loan) when they can go down the street and find all of that work already done for maybe $10,000 more – or even the same price? I assure you it’s happening all over San Diego County right now. Some seller just out-competed you for that buyer’s business. The only good news for sellers is that most of your competition isn’t trying very hard yet, so small bits of competition can look very attractive.
Even lenders are still in denial for their owned properties, and they are the ones with the hardest issues of all. They must get rid of the property. They don’t have any choice. Even if it was in the same shape as surrounding properties – which it rarely is – they have a deadline to get rid of that property, and everyone knows it. They also have other constraints that other sellers do not. These make the property worth less, as they rule out certain buyers and make others less willing. In a buyer’s market, every buyer counts. I had two clients putting in offers on different lender owned fixers in the last two weeks. One might comp out at the asking price of $450,000 if it wasn’t lender owned – which automatically makes it worth about ten percent less than the comps. Add the fact that it’s an ugly fixer that would be worth maybe $400,000 at most if it wasn’t lender owned, and they will be extremely lucky to see $360,000 out of it. Not supposition, not guesswork, fact. The fact is that there’s a beautiful owner occupied comparable on the same block asking $459,000. It’s even a bit larger. There is no doubt in my mind whatsoever that the beautiful comparable would take $450,000. Actually, I just checked again and the beautiful comparable is in escrow now. One owner that competed well, one that is not competing well. I told the agent for the lender’s fixer this, and she said, “I’ve been in this business forty years and I know what I can get for that property!” I offered to bet her $10 she couldn’t close escrow on it within ninety days for over $390,000 net – essentially a zero risk bet from my point of view. From hers also, if she thought the property was really worth more. She wouldn’t take me up on it. Furthermore, she’s violating her fiduciary duty by not explaining this to her client. Doesn’t matter how long she’s been in the business. What matters is whether she reacts well to this market.
About five miles away, another lender owned fixer asking $480,000 because that’s what the lender is on the hook for. And you know, it is a better neighborhood. Unfortunately for them, just because you were silly enough to lend them that much two years ago when the market was peaking doesn’t mean someone else will pay you that much for it now when the market is in the tank. What matters is the comparable properties, and there’s one just around the corner that anyone would rather have listing for $470,000. Above par house for a below par price. Hasn’t gone into escrow yet, but it will go fairly soon, unless someone else lists a better property cheaper, and they might even get a little bit of a bidding feud on it, despite the strong buyer’s market. This lender owned fixer is in rotten shape and has several issues that turn the average buyer off. I initially thought my client’s offer was lower than it should have been, but the more I thought about, the more I think my client came closer to the mark than I did initially. Horrible floor plan, necessitating major work to make it attractive. Yard not suitable for children, despite the fact that there’s a school on the same block that the agent is using as a “come-on”. These people will be lucky to get anything over $350,000 for it, but the agent sent me a blanket, “Anything less than $400,000 will be rejected without counter,” despite the fact that I explained how much work it will be to bring it up to the neighborhood standard. I left her some messages, and she didn’t respond. The implication to me was clear: She is in denial, and doesn’t want to hear plain facts explained. She’s got dozens of REO listings – maybe because she was a great bargainer in seller’s markets, maybe because she knows someone, maybe some other unknown factor. She’s not dealing well with this market. I don’t know if she doesn’t know market conditions or just acts like she doesn’t. If nobody puts an offer in good enough to get past the blanket rejection, it doesn’t make much difference, does it?
This the times when good listing agents really earn their money, as the gentleman listing the $470,000 comparable is. It may not be the great publicity of getting the highest price ever in the neighborhood, but getting it sold quick and for something like asking price in this market is a real achievement. Especially with as many distress situations as are out there – people that have to sell, for one reason or another. (I’m doing very well for my buyer clients, but it’s depth-charging fish in a barrel. You really find out how good someone is when the market favors the other side of the transaction.) There are dozens of FSBO and discounter listed properties in the neighborhood, sitting on the market for months. The last six months of Canceled, Withdrawn, and especially the Expired sections of MLS have all that and more, but that one property is going to sell quickly, and sell for a good price. That agent has already earned every penny he will get paid, and it isn’t even in escrow yet.
The person who “buys” listings, telling the people that they can get them more money than anyone else, more money than the market will support, had a nice long run. When prices are moving up strongly and there aren’t many houses to be had and everyone wants one, well a monkey could sell that house at that price given enough time, because given a few months the market will catch up to all but the most egregious of overpricing.
That is not the way things are now. Buyers have all the power, and they know it, because buyer’s specialists like me have told them if nothing else. Inventory is over nine months worth of sales at the current pace, more properties are coming on the market and the worst time of year for sales is approaching. Given these facts, What do you think is going to happen? Where do you think the market is headed, at least in the short term?
(and incidentally, what kind of bargains do you think those few buyers willing to get off the sidelines can drive?)
The longer listing agents wait to talk some sense into their sellers, the worse it’s going to be. The more days on market, the further the market falls, the more the sellers will have to move to meet it – and the more unhappy they will be with their listing agents. The agents I respect will refuse a listing rather than ask for a price they aren’t going to get except by freak coincidence. They get the same no transaction either way, but if they refuse the listing, they haven’t created unreasonable expectations, they haven’t failed to live up to those expectations, and neither party has wasted months finding out what that agent should have known in the first place.
Now, I’ve seen agents telling people that because interest rates have stabilized or even moved down, that will revive the market. This is complete and utter nonsense. I initially wrote something stronger, but my internal censor really wants to keep this family friendly. Yes, payments drive the market – when it’s a seller’s market. Buyer’s markets are driven by the bottom line, because there are lots of sellers and only a few buyers and if this seller won’t cut them a deal, the one down the block who is a little more motivated will. When every listing gets three offers within a week and buyers are getting desperate, they’ll bite off on another $1000, $5000, or $10000 because “It’s only $10 (or $50 or $100) more on the payment. They shouldn’t, but they will. When buyers have the power and they know it, they’ll tell the sellers to pay that $10 per month, because they’re not paying the extra in the first place. It is the sign of someone who does not understand supply and demand to think otherwise, and I certainly wouldn’t want that sort of numbwit as my agent. Your agent is your expert. If they are not an expert, why are you hiring them?
Now, looking forward. What’s going to break the logjam and get the market moving? Well, absent sudden 25% inflation or something else equally unlikely, the current market has the effect of adding to inventory while those who can afford not to sell drop off. We’ve had over a year of this now, and a lot of would be sellers have discovered that they don’t have to sell. They can stay in the home, or they can rent it out or let some family members use it. The ones left are looking an awful lot like a listing interview I helped another agent with today. Negative Amortization loan, darned near a $4500 real monthly cash flow requirement, equity all gone, and the comparable rentals are all around $1800 per month. There is no way on earth these people are coming away with any money, and the longer it goes the worse it will get, but he said another agent told him they could get an amount that’s at least $60,000 over market, just by comparable listing prices, never mind what they’re actually going to get an offer for. No, he didn’t sign up with us, quite predictably. He’s been told what he wants to believe, and this other agent is going to put him another $10,000 or $20,000 in the hole, and nobody would be happier than me if that other agent had a liability for what they’re going to do to this client.
So with more people that have stronger reasons to sell, very large inventory with more coming onto the market, and buyers quite aware that they have a level of power they haven’t seen in over a decade, what’s going to have to happen in order to change this? Basically, that inventory is going to have to clear. It can go one of three ways: the owner finds an acceptable alternative (increasingly unlikely), the owner decides to get serious about competing for a buyer’s business, or the lender takes it over. I’ve mentioned that the lenders are evidently still in denial, but they have legal requirements to dispose of those properties within a certain amount of time. The closer they get to that time expiring, the more desperate they’ll get. Once the regulators climb onto that lender’s back, they don’t climb off cheaply, nor easily. Quite frankly, if I were a major lender, I’d take the entire thing as a write off if someone offered me a dollar any time in the last week, and I think some lender’s listing agents are going to have rude awakenings before this is all over. I’m strongly considering sending my agent’s resume out to some lenders. But my real point is this: Sellers can compete on the individual level any time they want to, and the sooner they want to, the better off that individual is likely to be. Eventually, the seller’s aggregate is going to have to compete much harder for the business of the buyers that are out there, and for the buyers they want to lure off the sidelines. It took a long time to sink in, but the fact has sunken in to prospective buyers that the market got overextended. You can ameliorate your expectations and come out as well as possible, you can hope for the bigger fool of a bygone day, or you can take it off the market, if you have a sustainable situation. There aren’t a lot of sellers with sustainable situations out there right now.
One word about rapacious buyers before I go. I know I’ve said you’ve got the power. But if you or your agent has done your homework, when you settle upon a property that you’re going to make an offer on, that usually means it’s more attractive to you for the money than anything else. There is a strong temptation, given the current market, to low-ball just a little too hard. Don’t do it. Everything I’ve said about unrealistic sellers ending up with no transaction applies to you also, albeit less strongly. There is a point below which every seller out there will tell you to take a hike, no matter how desperate they are. If they owe $350,000 altogether on a $450,000 property, sure, they could it to you and be out from under at $350,000, but the vast majority of folks will see that you want every last penny of the equity they thought they had, and they’re going to tell you to do something rude, vulgar, and otherwise unprintable in a family friendly format. They will lose the house outright, and take major long term hits to their credit, before they do that. In this case, you end up with what the unrealistic seller gets: Nothing. Exactly how much should you bid? Ah, that’s part of the Art of Buyer’s Agent-Fu. In other words, it varies, and it takes more information – sometimes a lot more information – before I can give a good answer in a specific situation. The answer is never guaranteed, which is why it’s an art, not a science. But I can guarantee you’ll find out about the downsides of poisoning the well in this fashion if you step over that ill-defined line.
Caveat Emptor
Variable Annuities: Debunking the Ignorant Press
Found an annuity article in the local paper with an error so glaring that I had to debunk it. Here’s the article:Income for Life
And here’s the critical error, conveniently in the first two paragraphs:
Interested in annuities? The type known as an immediate annuity may pique the interest of some investors. But the first step is to clearly distinguish between an immediate annuity and a variable annuity.
Both are insurance products. A variable annuity is used to invest for a future need, such as financing retirement, and the benefit comes after years of compounding. An immediate annuity converts a chunk of cash into a monthly income guaranteed for life, with the payments starting right away.
BUZZ! Thank you for playing, and be sure to pick up our wonderful parting gifts. Of course you won’t be any good at the home game, either.
When considering annuities there are two main categorical choices you need to make, and they are completely independent of one another, as five minutes of research would have told this person.
The two main categorical splits of annuities are immediate versus deferred, and fixed versus variable. Whatever your choice on one axis, it has nothing to do with your choice on the other axis. I can name annuity products in each category of immediate fixed, immediate variable, deferred fixed, and deferred variable.
The immediate versus deferred choice has to do with whether or you start getting monthly (or yearly) checks immediately or at some point in the future. Actually, this is a less bifurcated choice than it appears on the surface, because the difference between deferred annuities and immediate annuities is that you don’t have to annuitize a deferred annuity today when you buy it – but you can annuitize it tomorrow, or you might wait fifty years or more. Annuities in general are designed to convert a fixed sum of cash into a stream of income, whether right away (immediate), or after they have received tax deferred income for some period of time, which can be days or decades (deferred).
The fixed versus variable choice has to do with where the money is invested. In fixed annuities, the money is invested in the general account of the insurance company carrying the annuity. In variable annuities, the money is invested in subaccounts that work very much like Mutual funds. I go into moderate depth of explanation of pros and cons in this article on Annuities, Fixed and Variable.
“Well, how do you annuitize a variable annuity?” you ask. You’ve got all of the same payoff options as a fixed annuity, of which “life with period certain” is the most common, and the most common of those are life with ten years certain, which makes payments at least ten years or however long you live, whichever is longer, life with twenty years certain (as before, except the minimum period is twenty years) and joint life with twenty-five years certain, which pays as long as either member of a couple is alive, or a minimum of twenty five years. The account balance is still invested in the subaccounts, although there is less than complete control over the full balance. Then they make use of what is called an “assumed rate of return” of which 4.5 percent is probably the most common.
“That’s a rotten rate!” I hear you cry, and correct you are. Nonetheless, it not only is very little below the guaranteed return of the fixed account of the company, which varies from about five to about six percent depending upon company, recent market experience, and other factors, but it is intentionally lower than the rate of return you will most likely earn.
This means you’re likely to start off with a lower payoff from the same amount of money in a variable annuity than in a fixed annuity, but the cute thing is that this is typically a minimum guaranteed payout for then and forevermore (or at least until the end of your payout period), guaranteed by the insurance company. When your actual rate of return exceeds your assumed rate of return, your payout goes up. It can subsequently go down as well if you have adverse investment results as will happen, but over time the stock and bond market have a lot more eight and twelve and twenty percent years than they do zero percent or minus five percent years. The average over time is somewhere between about ten and thirteen percent, depending upon who you ask and how you frame the question and when you ask it. So given the gap between an assumed rate of return of 4.5 percent, and actual rates of return that average somewhere about ten percent, what usually happens?
If you guessed that over time, your periodic payout tends to increase at a more than the rate of inflation, then DING! DING! DING! DING!, you win the grand prize – knowledge of how the system really works, and how you can manipulate it to your advantage. Which answers these paragraphs below from the article, wherein the author makes another error that could also have been avoided by that same five minutes of research:
Keep in mind, though, that if you live for decades, the fixed monthly income may lose buying power due to inflation. A few insurers offer products that raise payments to keep up with inflation, but they start out paying much less. A $100,000 premium might get a 65-year-old man only $464 a month, about 30 percent less than with a fixed-payment annuity.
Also, this may not be the best time to get an immediate annuity, even if one would make sense for you eventually. Interest rates are relatively low these days, keeping these products’ returns low. In 1999, when rates were higher, the 65-year-old man could get a return of around 8.6 percent.
As you’ve just seen, payoffs for variable annuities can and do increase over time, even after annuitization. The downside is that only the original minimum payoff is guaranteed, but most folks have better experiences over time.
Now the article does have some good information in other particulars. Women receive lower payouts than men of the same age because they tend to live longer. The older you are when you annuitize, the higher the payout per month (although this can be a trivial difference if you’re choosing a long period certain).
However, I cannot finish this article without mentioning the worst abuse of the public trust. The last line of the article recommends a website that I just refuse to link, among several other reasons, because they are apparently trying to sell fixed annuities only. Why? Because they are more profitable for the company and therefore pay a higher commission. I tried seven different scenarios looking for one variable annuity quote, and despite the fact that several of their listed companies offer variable annuities, got not one quote based upon a variable annuity. Variable annuities also have somewhat smaller and shorter withdrawal penalties and periods that said penalties are in effect (I should mention that most annuities will waive any withdrawal penalty if you actually annuitize). But an idiot could and should have spotted the fact that it’s a commercial website looking to sell annuities rather than looking to provide information to the consumer (there isn’t an online Frequently Asked Questions or any education on what an annuity is and is not, instead, you are told to call a toll free number that shills for a sales appointment), and from what I can tell, the author did all of the minimal research he did at this one website shilling for the fixed annuity industry. He would have done better to check with a few people with actual experience in both fixed and variable annuities.
In short, whereas I cannot prove that anyone was paid by the companies involved to write or print this article, in my opinion it should have been labelled an advertisement for fixed annuities.
And people trust these writers for financial advice?
Caveat Emptor
Unpaid Liens After The Sale, and Subrogation
I sold my house in (state) in august 2001 I hired a title attorney whose (local company X) acted as a agent for (national company Y). The facts are that there were errors and omissions which led to negligence in the performance at the closing of the property. The property taxes for the year 2000 were not paid. The title company did not do their duty and gave clear title to the buyer. Now, more than 5 years later Company Y is claiming I owe them these back taxes plus accrued costs. I would kindly appreciate some feedback
Yes, you owe the money.
The title insurance policy you bought insures the person who bought the property. Property taxes are part and parcel of all land ownership. A reasonable person should have paid those taxes. But they didn’t get paid.
This doesn’t mean that someone didn’t screw up. Every title search needs to include a search for unpaid liens that includes property taxes. That’s just the facts of the matter.
However, this does not relieve you of your duty to pay those taxes in full and on time. If it was an obscure mechanics lien recorded against your property for erroneously for work that was never done, you’d have a great case. If it was for stuff that you paid, and had reason to think you paid in full even though you were short, you might have a case. But not stuff that every reasonable property owner knows has to be paid, and didn’t get paid at all.
Let us consider what would have happened if you still owned the property. The county would be sending a law enforcement official around with delinquency notices, which would include interest and penalties for late payment. If those weren’t paid, they’d send law enforcement around another time with a tax foreclosure sale notice. You would have to pay those taxes.
It’s no different because you sold. Because it’s a valid existing lien on the property, albeit one they missed during title search, they paid it to clear the buyer’s title, as the policy requires them to do. On the other hand, when an insurance company pays a bill like this, and title insurance is insurance, they acquire the right to collect payment via subrogation. This fancy word just means they paid the damage on behalf of someone, and now they have the right to collect payment, just like auto insurers who pay for the damage to your vehicle and go sue the party at fault, for which that person’s liability insurer usually pays. The person with the liability to pay that property tax bill is you. Now, I’m not an attorney, so I don’t know, but there might be a case you can build against the person who did the title search for the interest and penalties that have accrued since the search. Before that, the bill was all yours, and given that it was for 2000, should have been paid before August 2001. On the other hand, that title company might not have had a duty of care to you, despite the fact that you were the one who paid the bill, as the insured was your buyer, not you. Furthermore, the cost of paying the attorney can often go to several times the cost of paying the taxes and penalties. You’d need to, you know, talk to an attorney for more information. You might want to call company Y and ask if they’ll settle for the bill as of the sale date, because they don’t want to pay for an attorney any more than you do, and they did screw up, and if they hadn’t, you would have paid the bill back then, right? Company Y can then recover the balance from their agent, company X.
Any lien that exists before the sale, discovered or not, is your responsibility. The only time that I think you are going to get off the hook is if you are dead and your estate probated and distributed before the lien is discovered. Basically, you’ve got to die to get away with it. Perhaps intervening bankruptcy might do it as well. I don’t think so, but I’m not a lawyer. If you had died, the title company would still have paid, as the policy requires to protect the buyer, but would have had no choice but to eat whatever amount they paid, because there would be nobody alive who they would have a valid claim against.
Caveat Emptor.
Is This Supposed to be Helpful Legislation? (A bad example from Illinois)
A reader named Terri at Educating the Wheelers sent me an email giving me a heads up on the antics of the state of Illinois. here is the link. Here is the original article at blackprof. The link to the original source is broken, but here is the Illinois Department of Financial and Professional Regulation, here is the full text of HB4050, the new law, here is a synopsis, among other things, and here are enforcement regulations.
Critical sections:
Based on information submitted to the Department by the originator, requires the Department to make a determination as to whether credit counseling is recommended to the borrower. Requires the Department to notify each borrower for which it recommends counseling of all HUD-certified counseling agencies located within the State and direct the borrower to interview with a counselor associated with one of those agencies. Requires the borrower to select an agency from the notice and to interview with a counselor associated with that agency within 10 days after receipt of the notice. Prohibits the borrower from waiving the recommended credit counseling. Requires the title insurance company or closing agent to record simultaneously with the mortgage a certificate of its compliance with database reporting requirements and, if it fails to do so, provides that the mortgage is not recordable
and
Changes the definition of “pilot program area” to all areas designated by the Department of Financial and Professional Regulation because of high foreclosure rates due to predatory lending practices. Deletes a requirement that a broker or originator provide each borrower with a notice disclosing the names of at least 3 lenders and comparing the rates and terms of those lenders (emphasis mine). Provides that nothing in the predatory lending database provisions is intended to prevent a borrower from making his or her own decision as to whether to proceed with a transaction.
blackprof’s take:
Nevertheless, Tuesday was a key moment in African-American History. On Tuesday, in addition to Mrs. King’s passing and Justice Alito’s elevation, the State of Illinois enacted a law that requires all mortgage applications within nine Chicago zip codes to undergo a process of review by the state’s Department of Financial and Professional Regulation. The department’s review process determines whether mortgage applicants in these neighborhoods must undergo compulsory credit counseling. If they must, then the mortgage lender must pay the cost of the counseling. Anyone familiar with Chicago geography and demography knows these nine zip codes. They are all neighborhoods on the South and Southwest side of Chicago. They are predominantly African-American neighborhoods. These neighborhoods are some of the most impoverished in the City of Chicago, and indeed, the nation. On Tuesday, they suddenly became much poorer. Although the legislators responsible for the new law were motivated by good intentions, they failed to consider the inevitable consequences of their bill. They wanted to protect poor homeowners in certain neighborhoods from high interest rates and predatory lending practices. The new law, however, necessarily increases the costs, time and uncertainty associated with mortgage applications in these black neighborhoods. The cost of credit counseling will be born by and charged to mortgage applicants. This, in turn, will necessarily decrease the price that new home-buyers can afford to pay for homes in these neighborhoods. If they can choose to buy in other neighborhoods, where housing money is more affordable, they, on the margin, will. Furthermore, recent studies of credit counseling programs suggest that these programs have little effect on borrower behavior. The end result is that homeowners in these poor black neighborhoods suddenly have less equity in their homes than they had on Monday. Legislation like this is often motivated by an unspoken belief that poor black people are incapable of making important decisions for themselves. We see this belief reflected in the protection of failed public schools, and now with respect to personal finances. But the very people for whom such a law was enacted were responsible and wise enough to save to make the down payments necessary to buy these homes in the first place. Suddenly, these same people must have their choices reviewed and second-guessed by state bureaucrats who have no stake in the outcome, or accountability for incorrect or unresponsive decisions. It is hard to imagine the fate of a similar but broader law imposing credit counseling upon all Illinois residents, including white professionals residing in the Chicago suburbs of Evanston, Winnetka, or Kennilworth. Would there have been enough votes in Springfield to impose these “benefits” on everyone, rather than just the residents of the Southwest side of Chicago?
I’m just a nuts and bolts guy. I see some issues here:
First, by increasing the cost of doing business in the relevant zip codes, the law is increasing the lender’s cost of doing business. It is not plain how the lenders will pass this on to the consumers, but pass it on they will. This has the effect of making loans more expensive. I can see two methods: either requiring everyone on the state of illinois to pay more, or requiring only those owners actually within the area to pay it. If they require only those within the area to pay, an excellent case can be made that higher loan costs makes for functional redlining, and the federal courts can intervene, and almost certainly will, possibly invalidating the law. If they require that everyone pay the extra costs, this functionally raises the cost of doing business everywhere in Illinois. This will also make it harder to qualify for loans in the requisite areas, as lenders will have incentive to throw roadblocks in the way of potential clients from those areas. Due to redlining regulations, I’m not certain how far that lenders will go, but it certainly won’t make loans easier to get or cheaper.
Second issue: no matter the intent, no matter who pays, this will cause loans to take longer and cost more, in addition to previously discussed costs of the program. For previous work as to why, see my essay on Mortgage Loan Rate Locks. The point, however, is that the State of Illinois is going to take some unknown period of time to consider the case. Then the client is potentially going to have to go to a credit counselor, who is going to have to get paid before providing the necessary legal blessing to the transaction. Furthermore, if the credit counselor wants more work at the expense of delaying the transaction, they can apparently make it happen by my reading of the law. All rate locks are for a specified period of time. Given this, there are three alternatives. One, float the rate (don’t lock) and hope that rates don’t rise. Second, lock for a longer period, which costs more. Third, pay an extension. Since the outcome when you don’t lock for long enough or don’t pay extensions is pretty much universally “worst case pricing” (i.e. the worse of rates when you locked or current rates), this means significantly higher loan costs, loan rate, or (most likely) both.
Third, as I said before, since this is going to motivate lenders to not want to do business there, and makes it harder to get loans in the effected areas, and quite likely increase the rates and costs of loans in the area as a consequence. This directly restricts how much of a house, price-wise, people in the area can qualify for, which in turn will have the net effect of decreasing sales prices in the area, further hurting current residents.
There are probably further detrimental aspects to new requirements, but the Illinois legislature deleted an existing requirement that, while apparently weak and subject to abuse in that a prospective loan provider was free to provide a prospective client with information only on loans that are worse than the first proposal, at the very least gave the client some further information as to alternative loans.
In short, the actions of the Illinois Legislature in this instance could, according to my understanding, basically be taken from a manual on “How To Hurt Poor People Even More”.
Caveat Emptor (and Caveat Voter)
Forty and Fifty Year Mortgages
Recently, the forty year mortgage has started to make a comeback, and a few lenders have started introducing the fifty year mortgage. The reason, straight from the horse’s mouth, the lender’s representatives, is lowered payments. In an uncertain and unstable market, investors are getting nervous about 100% interest only financing, and so the lenders are tightening up on the standards of who is able to qualify for that, while looking for another way to compete on the basis of lower payments. One way that they do this is the Option ARM, or negative amortization loan. However, to anyone who does even a minimal amount of investigation those loans are like cutting your own throat. A lot of people will still sign up for them, but now that Business Week did a feature calling them “Nightmare mortgages” more and more people are picking up on the tremendous downsides to this loan, but if they still want too much house and they’ve got to be able to qualify for, and make, the payment, they need an alternative. That is the forty and now the fifty year loan.
Now nobody does forty year fixed rate mortgages, let alone fifty. They do two and three year fixed rate loans, called the 2/38 and 3/37, respectively. Some lenders will also do a loan that amortizes over forty years, but the remaining balance is due in thirty years. This so-called 40/30 balloon has a lot in common with a thirty year fixed rate loan – including the fact that almost nobody goes more than five years without refinancing, so that the thirty year balloon should be no big deal. All of the preceding forty year loans are sub-prime loans, by the way, with prepayment penalties and higher rates than A paper. A Paper lenders doing the forty year loan are few and far between. People get longer durations from sub-prime lenders; A paper competes for the best borrowers – the ones who can really afford their loans – on rate/cost trade-off and underwriting standards. For those lenders doing the fifty year loan, it is pretty much the same story. The fifty year amortization due in thirty, the 2/48 and the the 3/47.
Now because the lender is risking their money for a longer time, and with less amortization and therefore more risk, most of the lenders – particularly the ones looking to compete on rate that you would prefer to do business with – charge a slightly higher rate for forty year loans than thirty, and a little higher still for a fifty. The difference is not huge, but it is there. Where a 2/28 might be at 7%, the corresponding 2/38 might be at 7.125, and the 2/48 at 7.25 for the same cost. Sometimes they’ll say that the difference is as small as a quarter point of cost for the forty year amortization as opposed to the thirty – but that’s an eighth of a percent on the rate, at subprime’s usual 1 point equals half a percent trade-off.
Now in my opinion, these longer amortization loans are mostly a marketing gimmick to lower the payment – slightly – for those who do not qualify for interest only under lender’s guidelines. The forty year amortization started making a comeback early in 2005, most as the 2/38, and the fifty year about March of this 2008.
My perception is that refusing interest only to these borrowers is a figleaf tossed to nervous mortgage investors. It’s not like fifty year amortization is really going to make a significant difference, as opposed to interest only, if a 100% loan gets foreclosed any time in the first five years, or if property values decline further. Let’s do some math.
Assume a $200,000 loan on a $250,000 purchase in California, just so I can do it in one loan without worrying about PMI.
| Amortization Period 30 40 50 | Interest Rate 7 7.125 7.25 | Loan Payment $1330.61 $1261.07 $1241.78 | Other costs $510.42 $510.42 $510.42 | Total monthly $1841.03 $1771.49 $1752.20 | Income to Qualify $3685 $3545 $3505 |
Now unlike everyone else who has written on longer amortizing loans, I’m not going to obsess about “interest paid over the life of the loan.” People are going to refinance in a few years anyway. That’s just the way things are. But let’s do look at the difference between interest paid in the first two years, the fixed period for most of these at the end of which people will refinance.
| Amortization period 30 40 50 | interest rate 7.000 7.125 7.250 | 1 month interest $1166.67 $1187.50 $1208.33 | 24 mos interest $27,724.41 $28,374.03 $28,941.66 | Remaining Balance $195,789.89 $198,108.53 $199,138.73 | Comparative Deficit $0 $2968.26 $4566.09 |
The 40 year loan only saves $1668.96 in payments over the first two years, and the fifty $2131.92. So if we subtract these numbers off the deficit in the above table, we are left that the forty year loan costs us $1299.30 in net deficit as opposed to the thirty, and the fifty year loan costs us $2434.17 net of all savings. This on top of the fact that it really doesn’t make that much difference in the income we need to qualify for the loan (which in my example is limited to cost of housing with no other payments). Just paying off a credit card that takes $100 payments per month will do more to help you qualify.
These numbers get worse, not better, in the bigger loans that the lenders are using them to justify. Let’s assume a $400,000 loan on a $500,000 property instead:
| Amortization period 30 40 50 | interest rate 7 7.125 7.25 | Loan Payment $2661.21 $2522.13 $2483.58 | Other costs $630.83 $630.83 $630.83 | Total monthly $3292.04 $3152.96 $3114.41 | Income to Qualify $6585 $6310 $6230 |
| Amortization period 30 40 50 | interest rate 7.000 7.125 7.250 | 1 month interest $2333.33 $2375.00 $2416.67 | 24 mos interest $55,448.83 $56,748.07 $57,883.32 | Remaining Balance $391,579.79 $396,217.06 $398,277.46 | Comparative Deficit $0 $5937.30 $9132.95 |
Considering that over two years, the forty year payment saves $3339.92 in payments, it’s still down by $2599.38 as opposed to the thirty year amortization, and the fifty is down by $4869.83 in just two years – never mind what happens if you have to do it again in two years, and once again, paying off a credit card probably will do more to help someone qualify full documentation.
Now I don’t see anything particularly wrong with forty and fifty year mortgages, although a 30 year is better while making very little difference on the payments, I can see the benefits for those who lie in this income range. But pardon my lack of enthusiasm for something that makes very little difference to whether someone qualifies for the loan, while costing them far more than they save in terms of payments, even over the short term and disregarding the effects if the people do not refinance. Far better to just persuade someone not to buy quite so much house in the first place, even if it means you get less of a commission. But then if most real estate agents sold property on the basis of what people could afford rather than it’s beautiful and they want it and therefore it’s an easy sale and now let’s figure out a way to get them the property even if they can’t afford it, the southern California real estate market would not be in the state it is in.
Caveat Emptor
Flexible College Plan – The State Run 529
Of all the investments out there available to be made, the 529 is neither best or second-best, but it is right up there near the top.
Back when I was actively working in the financial planning business, it was one of the easiest to sell, as well. It holds one of the best sets of tax advantages, and is surprisingly flexible for something designed to fund a college education.
The State-run 529 works in relation to the IRS’s gifting rules, and is subject to those and other limitations. There is a limit, that varies from year to year, on the maximum total contributions. However, it has a couple of powerful benefits that most investments do not have.
First off, you can front load it with up to five years worth of gifting contributions. With this currently at $18,000 per year, this means that an individual can give up to $90,000 and a married couple up to $180,000 all at once tax free.
Second, any investment income earned by the 529 is tax deferred until you take it out. So you’re earning interest on any money you might otherwise have paid as taxes until you actually make a withdrawal.
Third, you, the donor, retain control over the investment, and can transfer it to another donee if your initial pick decides to skip college or wants to buy a motorcycle with the money. This contrasts with most college accounts, such as the Coverdell, that money is theirs, totally and irrevocably, on their 18th birthday, and they can sue you if you don’t want them to buy a motorcycle with it. The 529 is the only account I’m aware of with this reservation. You can even recapture it for yourself in many circumstances, if you decide to. Nor is the money committed to any given learning institution (or group of institutions, and earning little to no income if the prospective client decides to go elsewhere, or skip college altogether.
With estate tax gone, the fact that investments in a 529 are no longer part of your estate is less important, but 529s pass with full tax deferral, immediately and outside of probate to named successor owners or beneficiaries, as applicable, and they have the option to keep them going rather than taking the money. Most other investments do not afford anyone else except a spouse this opportunity to keep the account going as it was.
Finally, if you use the money for college or college related expenses, the withdrawals are tax free. Even if you don’t, the penalty is only ten percent of earnings, which is much smaller than, for instance, the Traditional IRA. Other neat facts adding to the flexibility: No matter where you live, you may use any state’s 529 program, and go to college anywhere in any state you like, and still enjoy the full benefits.
To really illustrate how flexible this is, let us consider, hypothetically, the case of a 60 year old with a 40 year old child. Not too many 40 year olds go to school, but the 529 can be useful even so. Suppose the 60 year old has $50,000 they don’t think they’ll ever need, and they want to make certain the 40 year old gets it when they die, but wants to keep control of the money in the meantime, and wants a lot of bang for their buck. Consider the hypothetical of a 9% yearly return, every year. The 9% return is likely to be slightly low on the average, and the stock market never returns a consistent figure from year to year, but let us consider it. Suppose the parent lives 20 years. That $50,000 has turned into $280,000, same as a traditional IRA. But now the child has the option of keeping it going, which they do not have if it’s in a traditional IRA, and they only have to pay tax on $230,000 if they withdraw it all at once. Put into a taxable account, even if it earned the same 9%, and assuming a 28 percent tax rate, it would only be $175,500. Assuming the same 28% tax rate, even withdrawing all of it at once leaves them with $215,600 – a $40,000 difference just for putting the money in a better account. Or the beneficiary can withdraw it a little bit at a time, to pay for, say, their own grandchild’s college, during which time the remainder continues to earn income tax deferred.
There are limits as to how far Congress and the IRS will allow it to be stretched. Consult a financial planner in your area. But if you want tax deferred, possibly tax free market returns and a lot of flexibility, most people choose investments significantly worse.
Caveat Emptor
Facts Of Life On Buying and Selling “Without an Agent”
I saw your article on on Searchlight Crusade about exclusive buyers agents and I have a couple follow up questions pertaining to my own situation that I am hoping you could shed some light on. I don’t have any buyers agent (currently). However I have spotted 2 houses in an area that I think I would like to make an offer on. Both of these houses are listed by real estate agents. I am obviously eager to save as much money as I can and think it would be great to try and save on the agent undefined if at all possible (I have bought FSBO before, so I am familiar with the process and I don’t see much value add with an agent since I have already found the properties). However I just don’t get it – if I make an offer on the property by working with the sellers agent then the sellers agent gets both commissions? Is there a way to just take the buyers agent commission off the sales price? If there isn’t then I guess there is no reason not to go and find a buyers agent to assist me? Seems like a waste of money. I have found an buyers agent that who said he will give me 50% of the commission if I sign an exclusive buyers agent contract with him however I am worried that my hands are tied if I don’t end up purchasing one of these properties I have already identified (ie I could end up paying 1/2 his typical commission if I found a FSBO). Any insight you could provide would be of great help – I love reading your stuff. Thanks,
The first thing I need to clear up here is the nature of listing agreements. The standard listing contract form gives the listing agent the full commission for both buying and selling, and if someone other than them represents the buyer, then they agree to pay the buyer’s agent a portion of that. If there is no buyer’s agent, they keep it. Since you have to make your offer through the listing agent, the listing agent gets that commission, and that is as it should be. Note that I believe it is stupid to act as agent for both parties in the same transaction because seller’s interests and buyer’s interests are often at impasse, and when you’re acting as agent for both sides, there are many potential issues which, if they happen, are lawsuit material one way or the other no matter what the agent does. If I find a buyer for my own listing, I’ll find another agent I trust to do a good job or have them sign a non-agency agreement, and that way there is no conflict of interest. But greed is a powerful motivator, as you yourself are illustrating. The fact is that if the listing agent wants the full commission, they will probably end up with it, and justifiably so, as they found the owner a buyer, didn’t they? That’s what the contract says the seller’s commission is for. You saw their sign, you saw the house they listed, you made an offer through them, the house got sold through their efforts. According to the terms of the listing contract, they found you, whether you realized it before now or not. The buyer’s agent commission is for an agent who has a buyer who sells them that property, as opposed to the one down the street.
Many agents make side agreements to rebate part of their commission in certain circumstances. But that potential rebate contract in this case is with the seller, not you, and is none of your business. Unless the agent has a release to discuss it with you in writing, they are violating confidentiality to do so. The seller may sell to you cheaper because of such a clause, but they are under no obligation to do so.
Now before you dismiss this with, “That’s Stupid!” or something worse, because it appears that things are stacked to cost you money, consider that this has evolved over many years as the best and cheapest way to preserve everybody’s best interests. Without these forms, there would be a lot more lawsuits filed over commissions, with the side effect that the lawyers get rich, and the money ends up getting paid anyway on top of the lawyer’s fees. The listing agent commission is partially a hold over from the old single listing days of half a century ago. Over time, the buyer’s agent commission evolved as a way to open the system up, so that homes sold faster and those agents and offices without a large, pre-built client base could break into the business. But it’s still intentionally structured that way as a way to motivate that listing agent to advertise the property far and wide and especially in all of the most effective venues. It costs money for that sign in the yard. It costs money for MLS access. It costs money for advertisements in the paper. It costs money for all the trappings that enabled someone to go find that agent and list the property in the first place. It costs that agent money just to stay in business whether they have any clients or not. It costs the agent money for the advertising to attract clients in the first place. And chances are, if they hadn’t spent that money, you wouldn’t have found that property, and the owner wouldn’t have sold it. Consider also the liability issue, which is huge and real. Are you volunteering to give up any legal rights for a complaint? Didn’t think so. Which means they have to go through all of the disclosures, and they’re still liable if they make a mistake. How many people do you know that do major work in their occupation for free, even though they’re still going to be liable for potentially hundreds of thousands of dollars if something isn’t perfect?
People think agents are making money hand over fist, when the reality is that unless they’re putting in the long hours and hard work to make multiple transactions happen every month, they’re just barely scraping by. Most of the successful agents I know put in sixty hours or more per week, and if they are putting in less than forty, I’ll bet money on no other data that they’ll be out of business in a year. This is not a cheap business to be in, or an easy one. I don’t blame you for wanting to economize – it is a lot of money. If you don’t think about what it’s getting you, and what you’re getting, and what agents are giving you, and the liability they’re assuming, and what they have to spend to stay in business, and you just look at the check the brokerage is getting, it seems like a lot of money.
Put yourself in the shoes of a seller. You have a property, but you want cash. Real estate is not liquid, a property interchangeable with billions of other shares in Planet Earth that you can call a broker and sell over the phone because there’s a ready market for shares in Planet Earth which are all interchangeable. Instead, each and every property is unique. This means it is bought and sold on the basis of those unique individual characteristics. You want results, you want your property sold for the highest possible price, you don’t want it coming back to haunt you if there was something wrong you didn’t know about, and it costs money and it takes work to make buyers want to buy your property.
Sometimes the agent gets lucky of the market is hot and it sells quick. Sometimes the agent works hard – and they really do work – for months with no offers despite all of it. There are times where a monkey could have sold a residential property within a week for more than the asking price, and there are times when no matter how good the agent is, you still need luck. This requires an adjustment in thinking if you’re going to do well. Average total commission paid is up locally in the last few months, from five to six percent. Particularly in a rough market, if the seller tries to sell it themselves, it will statistically take longer, and they will statistically net less money from the sale, not to mention what they spent on the property in the meantime. Some few get lucky. People win lotteries and casino jackpots, too. Betting that you’ll be one of them is a sucker’s game. Any number of studies and statistics show this fact, and many brokers make a good living buying FSBOs to then resell for a hefty profit. The last broker I worked for is one example. In one month, we sold four properties he bought from FSBOs, all for a substantial profit, even in a down market. Sellers tried to think like you do, and it cost them over $150,000 net of commissions, and these were all fairly quick sales. Had we tried harder to get maximum value for his money, we could likely have gotten more, but he’s not complaining.
Before we go any further, let’s look at what a buyer’s agent really does. It isn’t just pop you into the house and watch you wander around. While you’re oohing and aging over the beautiful kitchen and the brand new carpet, I’m looking for foundation cracks. I’m analyzing floor plan. I’m looking at location and real condition of the structure and how good a design the property is and whether I can see issues that are going to cost you money down the road and considering eventual resale value and comparing it to other nearby properties I’ve seen. I have talked buyers out of superficially attractive properties on each and every one of those points in the last month or so, saving them a lot of money and headache down the road. The listing agent is working for the seller, and it would be a violation of fiduciary duty for them to say anything about any of these negatives.
Now, with that said, let’s look at your current situation. I’ve already covered the fact that the listing agent is entitled to that commission. Now let’s put you on the other side of the table from a guy whose responsibility it is to get the best possible price for the property, and his commission depends upon how good a job he does. He does this constantly, for a living. He’s set up with information to ensure that he gets the highest price. It’s cost effective for him, in a way that it isn’t if you aren’t doing it constantly. Betting that you’re better at his profession than he is would be like him betting he’s better at your profession than you are. My money is on “you end up paying more than you have to.”
Here’s a dead giveaway that an agent’s job is trickier than you think it is: That you’re even talking about an exclusive buyer’s agent contract in this situation. So long as you already have the property in mind, there is comparatively little risk and a lesser amount of work for him in the situation. He’s not going to have to drive you around to four million properties over the next twelve months to maybe find one you want. This is a buyer’s agent’s dream situation – cut straight to the bargaining, without any of the preliminary work that takes so long. If this one falls through, he can either look for more or blow you off, depending upon what he has time for. Offer him a general non-exclusive buyer’s agent agreement with a fifty percent rebate if you find the property yourself, as you did in this situation. This motivates him to do his best bargaining and looking out for your interests without sabotaging the transaction. If this one falls apart, he’s still got motivation to find you something on your terms, and you’re not bound to him unless he introduces you to the property or you use him for negotiations, etcetera. You get a negotiator who knows your market and should know most of the tricks and is working on your behalf, and if this one falls through you have someone who’s motivated to find your something with better tools and more relevant skills at his disposal than you have. He gets a commission which, if smaller, is also easier and walked its own self in the door rather than him having to go out and spend time and money to drag it in. Everybody wins. If he won’t do it, find someone else in your area who will.
(Before anybody asks, I don’t propose client contracts that I wouldn’t accept)
Caveat Emptor
100% Financing: Buying A Home With Zero Down Payment
Is there any program that i can qualify for a home with no down payment?
Lots of them. We may not be talking number of grains of sand on the beach or drops of water in the ocean, but there are more ways to get get into a property with no down payment than most laypersons would believe.
Many loan officers would have you believe that it is a hard loan or that takes something special to get 100 percent financing. It doesn’t. In 95 percent plus of all cases, that’s just setting you up for three points of origination, setting them up to ask you for referrals, and trying to get you to not shop around. Nor is it a difficult loan to do. As long as you meet the guidelines, 100% financing is routine. Many lenders are begging for these loans. It’s almost to the point where fat middle aged men like me have to be careful not to allow ourselves to be alone in the office with young attractive female lender representatives. In my humble opinion, some of these lax underwriting processes are setting the lenders up for unbelievable losses, but as long as I and my clients are telling the truth and playing by the rules, there is no reason why my clients should not benefit.
Now the first way to get 100% financing is obviously to have a lender loan you 100%. Now the best way to structure it, in the vast majority all cases, is the 80/20 “piggyback” loan. As I discuss in One Loan Versus Two Loans, this avoids mortgage insurance (PMI) which saves you money. But there are a plethora of other ways to structure it, if there is a reason to. One rule that I have learned the hard way is never apply for a first and a second from different lenders, even if it looks like the rates will be better applying that way. Even if both wholesalers swear on the name of Domingo Montoya, don’t do it. You are wasting your time. If the lender who wants to do the first won’t do the second, there is a reason, and the reason is that this person is unlikely to be approved for the second, and the transaction doesn’t close until both loans are ready. If I’ve got the first with the lender, that’s leverage that a good loan officer can use to get them to approve marginal seconds. Not so with lenders who are just doing the second. Not to mention that there is ten times the potential for confusion and several times the work coordinating between lenders.
What do you need in order to get 100% financing, you ask? Well, that’s a variable. If you have can prove you make enough money to justify the loan (see Levels of Mortgage Documentation), a credit score of 580 is sufficient. Now, the higher the credit score the better the loan, but if you’ve got a 580 and can prove you make enough money, the loan can be done. The possibility does not vanish completely until you are below a 560 credit score, although comparatively few lenders will go below 580 for 100 percent financing.
If you can’t prove you make enough money, lenders will do 100% financing on a stated income basis down to 640 credit score, and maybe down as low as 600. Now even a 640 credit score is 80 points below the median credit score in this country, so most folks can get 100% financing. However, be very careful about overstating your income as you are still going to have to make that payment every month. Stated income loans are a good way to get in serious financial difficulties if you don’t understand their limitations. Therefore, despite the ability to inflate your income, I strongly advise against it. Furthermore, as I’ve said elsewhere, the rates for stated income loans are higher than for full documentation loans, and they become progressively more so the worse the credit score gets. At 600 credit score, not only is it unlikely that you will be able to get 100% stated income financing, but it will be perhaps 1.5 or even 2% higher than the rate that the person who can prove they can make enough money will get. For all of these reasons, I strongly advise you to stay within a budget where you can prove you make enough money.
Now things like being 30 days late on your rent, and how long of a rental history you have will also influence your ability to get 100% financing, not to mention the rate you will be offered. As with so many other things, take care of your credit and it will take care of you. Make payments of whatever nature, in full and on time. Better yet, don’t incur any debts you don’t have to.
Suppose your credit is so bad that you do not qualify for 100% financing from any lender? Well, not all hope is lost, although it really does constrain your choices. Most lenders will permit seller carrybacks, so long as they are subordinate to lender financing. So if the lender is willing to give you 90% financing, you can do one of the things that called 80/10/10 financing: 80% first, 10% second, 10% third that is a carryback with the seller.
Now not every seller is going to be willing to carry back money. They are selling the property because they want money, or something that money can buy but the property won’t get them. If the seller doesn’t have enough equity to cover the costs of selling plus what you’re asking to borrow, your offer is probably not going to appeal to that seller. A good buyer’s agent will steer you away from properties where the seller doesn’t have the equity to work with you. Another thing is that sellers may want you to offer more money in order to accept your offer. Furthermore, they might charge you a really hideous interest rate as an incentive to pay them off ASAP. And they may realize that the reason the lenders won’t give you 100% financing is because you are not the best credit risk out there. I certainly don’t hesitate to tell my listing clients a lot more about the limitations of carrybacks than there is space for here. I’m a decided non-fan of seller carrybacks, as the request tends to indicate a poorly qualified buyer who may not be able to secure any financing. Nonetheless, given the current buyer’s market, some sellers are willing to carry back financing in order to get rid of the property, particularly if the offer is for top dollar. Once the market turns back towards the sellers at all, the ability to do this is likely to vanish. There are many advantages to being willing to shop in a buyer’s markets, of which that is only one.
So obviously, you need to know if 100% financing through the lender is possible or likely for someone in your particular situation. You need to know this before you go making any offers to purchase property – and there are types of property where 100% financing is only an option with a seller carryback.
Now, a couple of final points: Just because you can get 100% financing does not mean it’s a good idea, or that you should. You get better rates from lenders if you put money down, and writing offers that include having money for a down payment shows a seller that you are serious about buying the property. Other things being equal, I’m going to counsel my sellers that an offer that comes in with even a 5% down payment is a much stronger offer than anything that comes in wanting 100% financing. As a loan officer and buyer’s specialist, I’ve dealt with enough of these that I know the questions to ask to determine if it is likely to work, possible, or ain’t gonna happen.
Furthermore, speaking of strong offers: You will need a decent deposit to convince the seller that you’re serious about buying the place. The seller is going to spend a lot of money on the escrow for your attempt to purchase that property, and has to give you sole shot for however long an escrow period you agree to. This means they can’t work with other offers while they’re working with you, and time is money to a seller. They want to know that if you can’t consummate this contract in a timely fashion, they are going to have some compensation for the trouble and expense. Prospective buyers with 100% financing can expect to have to put a larger deposit down. Somebody offers a $500 deposit on a $500,000 property, that’s going to be rejected so fast and so thoroughly that your fax machine will spin. So if you really have no money, even though you can obtain 100% financing, trying to buy a property in this fashion is likely to be a waste of time.
Caveat Emptor
Straw Buyer Fraud
I’ve gotten several emails to articles recently having to do with straw buyers, and more search hits. Red flags preceded home-fraud lawsuit and Fraud case hits home seem to cover one of these weasels particularly well.
A “straw buyer” is someone whose credit is used to purchase a property and secure financing. Sometimes they cooperate willingly and sometimes they are victims of identity theft, but it’s always illegal. It is also, as these two articles illustrate, hazardous to your financial health.
Person A wants to buy a property, but convinces person B to step in as a “straw buyer” to obtain terms that person A could not. Alternatively, person A steals person B’s identity, and forges all of their information on the purchase and loan papers. In both cases, person B is not the person really purchasing the property, but their name is on the mortgage. In the first case, person B is fully responsible for the loan and everything else that goes on, as well as having committed FRAUD. In the second case, they’ve got a long hard row to hoe to convince everyone that they weren’t involved, because with hundreds of thousands of dollars on the line, it is worth the lender’s while to be as hard-nosed as possible. The lender does not particularly care about justice in this case; what they want is the money they loaned out to get repaid.
The closest thing to benign that happens in straw buyers is when one relative, let’s call him Junior, convinces another relative, call her Mom, to use her good credit so that Junior can afford the payments on a house he really does want to live in. Please note that this is still fraud – you are deceiving the lender for the purpose of getting a better loan than you would otherwise be able to obtain. Good agents and good loan officers want no part of this, because it doesn’t matter how benign the intent, the fact of the matter is that it is still fraud. The lender discovers it, or if payments get missed, that agent or loan officer is legally toast. Note that this is different from Mom buying Junior a property for Junior to live in, or helping Junior afford property Junior wants to buy. There is sometimes a thin but always bright line between legal and illegal activity, and starting to deceive people – telling anything less than the whole truth and nothing but the truth – is always a sign you have stepped over the line.
Now, once you get away from this most nearly benign straw buyer scenario, things degenerate quickly and there are many scams and frauds that can be pulled. Many of them involve appraisal fraud. Most common is that someone persuades you to allow them to apply for a loan on your behalf to buy a property for them, which has supposedly appraised for $700,000. You end up responsible for a $700,000 loan on a $400,000 property, and the people who pull this scam walk away with $300,000 (or more) free and clear.
There are also all kinds of scams involved with people that want someone else on the mortgage, but themselves on title. If you quitclaim off of title, this does not absolve you from the mortgage. In general, the only way to absolve yourself from the mortgage is for them to refinance in their own name, and since they are claiming they couldn’t do this, that just isn’t going to happen. It’s one thing for one spouse to qualify for the mortgage on their own but legally quitclaim it themselves and their spouse, husband and wife as joint tenants with rights of survivorship. It is something else entirely to quitclaim it to Joe Blow (or Jane Blow), but allow yourself to remain on the mortgage. If Mr. or Mrs. Blow does not pay the mortgage, guess who is liable? I get hits on this site every day asking, “How do I remove myself from a mortgage?” The answer is that you don’t. The lender has your signature on the dotted line that says “I agree to pay…” The only way they are going to let you off is if the people remaining qualify for the loan without you – by which I mean a refinance. Even most loan assumptions (for loans where assumption is possible and approved) are subject to recourse for at least two years, usually longer. This is one reason that for divorcing couples, it needs to be part of the dissolution agreement that the property will be sold or mortgage refinanced before the dissolution is final to protect the spouse that isn’t keeping the property (they’re often entitled to some cash from the equity, as well).
There are good and strong reasons why straw buyers are illegal, reasons that start at fraud and run through confidence games of all sorts, which are also fraud, albeit with a personal as opposed to corporate victim. The games that can be played on you when you cooperate with a straw buyer request start at major financial disaster, and often include felony jail time.
Caveat Emptor
Multiple Mortgage Inquiries Do Not Drop Your Credit Score
>broker incurred 19 inquires in 1 week dropping my score.
B.S.
I’d go the full Penn and Teller on this one if I wasn’t trying to stay family friendly. The law is clear on this one, and practice is fully compliant with the law. I’ve seen thousands of credit reports, sometimes with dozens of recent mortgage inquiries. It could be 1, 19 or 19,000 inquiries. As long as they are all mortgage inquiries, all inquiries within thirty days count as one one inquiry. And the credit reporters and credit modelers I’m familiar with all comply.
Now, the best and the worst loan officers are brokers, who shop your loan around to multiple lenders. But you don’t even have to stick with one broker, and you are silly to do so. Shop your loan with half a dozen at least, and apply for two or more. As long as you control the appraisal, the most you’ll pay is a retyping fee, and you can play them off one against the other to see which delivers the most of what you want the fastest.
This used to be a real issue. Years ago, there would be a game as each inquiry was a hit to your credit, so prospective mortgage providers would run your credit again and again, until they drove your score under some noteworthy creditworthiness break-point. They could still use their original report, but since anybody who ran your report after that would see a 678 instead of a 686, or a 572 instead of 588, it would be unlikely that they could provide as good a loan.
However, a few years ago the National Association of Mortgage Brokers sponsored legislation in Congress to change this. It was hardly altruistic of them, people not having their score hurt by multiple inquiries means that they are more willing to allow brokers a chance to compete. Nonetheless, this was a major benefit for anyone who wants to be able to shop around for a mortgage like they might want to for any major purchase, and mortgages are the second biggest purchases most people make in their lifetime (the biggest being the property the mortgage loan secures!). No matter how selfish the motive, however, they still did you a major favor, as someone who might want to have a mortgage someday even if you don’t now. Tell your mortgage broker thank you for that.
Now there is a limitation to this, and ironically it affects credit reports run at banks and credit unions, although not brokers. Because in order to qualify for this, the inquiry has to be run under a provider code that says, “inquiry for mortgage.” Mortgage broker inquiry codes all say “inquiry for mortgage,” because that’s the only type of credit they’ve got. But banks and credit unions give loans for other purposes also, so they have a minimum of two inquiry codes, one that says “mortgage inquiry,” and one that says, “general inquiry.” If you are talking to a loan officer at a bank, who does car loans and credit cards also, sometimes they use the wrong inquiry code, and it counts as another inquiry. Talk to four banks, potentially four inquiries. Talk to four brokers, unless you space them out by 30 days or more, it’s never more than one inquiry.
So anybody who tells you not to let other mortgage providers run your credit because they might drive your score down is either unaware of the law, or simply trying to scare you because they are frightened of having to compete. Incompetent or a liar, one or the other – maybe both. When you get right down to it, they are really telling you that their loans aren’t very good. Because so long as they are done within a few days, the fact is that any number of mortgage inquiries all count as precisely one inquiry.
Caveat Emptor
