Searchlight Crusade

I have mentioned this form several times in the past as the only form in the entire mortgage process which is actually required to be accurate. Whoever your provider is, this is the one form they cannot play games with. This article is goes over the form line by line, referencing previous entries.

The top section has to do with identifying information on your transaction. Your name, the name of the other party to the transaction, escrow numbers, name and address of lender, date of settlement.

The meat starts with line 100, the Summary of Borrower’s Transaction, and line 100 the section on Gross amount due from borrower.

101 Contract Sales Price: Should be the same as on your purchase contract.

102. Personal property: Say you agree to pay $500 extra if they leave the sofa. Here’s where that goes.
     
103. Settlement charges to borrower (line 1400) adds the costs of the transaction to the total.
     
     106 and 107 are repayments for any taxes the seller may already have paid as of the date of settlement, but are not their responsibility as the time period covered includes some time after the effective date of sale.
     
104. Adds all the lines up to this together. The rest are simply blank lines that may or may not be a factor in your particular transaction. If they are a factor, it should be because you specifically agreed to pay them!
     
     The 200 section is about stuff that is paid for, or on behalf of the borrower, or you have simply already paid.
     
105. Deposit or earnest money: The deposit you made, either with escrow (purchase) or the bank (on a refinance) to persuade them that this was a good transaction.
     
106. Principal amount of new loan(s): Check and make sure this matches your new Note. In some states, they may be able to combine the amounts of two loans here, but they shouldn’t.
     
107. Existing loans taken subject to: If you’re assuming a loan or something similar, it goes here.
     
108. Second mortgage loan: Compare against your new second mortgage amount.
     
     205 and 206 are blank lines for things that may not be a factor in every transaction.
     
     210 and 211 are for city and county taxes that have not yet been paid by the seller, but the cost has been incurred. Let’s say today is September 1, and we’re in California, where the property taxes run July 1 to June 30. On September 1, the seller owes two months of property taxes, but those taxes haven’t been paid, and won’t be due until November 1. So there will be a credit here from the seller to the buyer for two months of property taxes, which the seller is responsible for until the effective date of sale, but the buyer will have to pay on November 1. 212 to 219 are blank lines unless something special is relevant to your transaction.
     
     220 is total paid by/for borrower: This is a total of everything paid by you or on your behalf.
     
     300 Section tells if you are due money at settlement or have to come up with some. 301 is transferred from line 120, 302 from line 220. If 302 is larger, you get cash back. If 301 is larger, you have to provide the check in otder to close.
     
     The second column is a summary of the seller’s transaction, if there is a seller and it’s not just a refinance.
     
     Section 400 is about what’s due to the seller, starting with 401 Contract Sales Price, then 402 which is a mirror or 102, then 403, Impound Credit, which is rarely used, as it is pretty much applicable to loans being assumed.
     
     406 and 407 are mirrors for 106 and 107, as are 408 to 418 mirrors of the 108 to 118 section. 420, Gross amount due to seller, is a summation of all of these.
     
     The 500 section has to do with stuff the seller is paying other people.
     
     501 is excess deposit, 502 is settlement charges to seller, 503 is loans that are bing assumed.
     
     504 and 505 are mortgage payoffs being made, 507 through 509 are blank spaces for things not applicable to every transaction.
     
     510 and 511 are mirrors of 210 and 211, as 512 through 519 mirror 212 through 219, blank lines not applicable to every transaction.
     
     Section 600 is analogous to but not mirroring section 300. Line 601 is line 420 brought down. Line 602 is line 520 brought down. The difference is line 603 cash to seller (This can be line 603 cash from seller in the case of a so-called “short sale”)
     
     All of this is good and necessary information, but The Really Good Stuff™ is all on page 2. The lines at the right list who is paying it (buyer or seller)
     
     Section 700: division of commission
     
     Line 701 is compensation to the listing broker, line 702 is to the selling broker (i.e. the buyer’s broker, the people who “sold” the property), and line 703 total commission paid at settlement. I’ve never seen this paid by buyer, it’s always been paid by seller.
     
     Section 800 is items payable in connection with the loan itself. This doesn’t mean that these are all the loan-related charges – far from it.
     
     Line 801 and 802 are dollar amounts of points. If these aren’t zero, divide them by the loan amount to make certain they are the numbers agreed upon.
     
     Lines 800 through 1317 are linked on a 1:1 basis with the appropriate lines on the Good Faith Estimate (Mortgage Loan Disclosure Statement in California) (see articles on Good Faith Estimate linked below for explanations) In an ideal world, the total of these should be exactly what was indicated on the Good Faith Estimate/Mortgage Loan Disclosure. There are some few items that are not under the loan officer’s control (again, see Good Faith Estimate for which are and are not). A good rule is that if it isn’t on the Good Faith Estimate/Mortgage Loan Disclosure in one form or another, it shouldn’t be here. Compare it to the Good Faith Estimate/Mortgage Loan Disclosure to find discrepancies. Other than things like prepaid interest, which the loan officer does not control but should have a pretty accurate estimate of, the most difference there should be between the two documents is one big fee gets broken down into little fees. But if you’re told, for example, that the $795 amalgamation of lenders fees was broken up into A, B, and C, make sure that A+B+C=$795, and do not allow additional fees to be lumped in. Grab a piece of scrap paper and take notes. Make certain these numbers jibe. It is easy to hide thousands of dollars in unsuspecting fees to clients in this page if you, the client, are not careful.
     
     Line 1400 is a summation of these lines.
     
     Once again, look hard at the numbers on these two pieces of paper. It is the only honest accounting many people get of the transaction, and the fact that it comes at the end of the transaction makes hiding all kinds of things easy. You, the client, are tired of the whole process and want it to be over, a fact which many loan officers and loan providers rely upon. Put your guard up for a few more minutes, long enough to be certain what you sign for here matches what you signed up for back at the start of the process.
     
     Caveat Emptor

I’ve said upon more than one occasion that the factors at closing are all in the loan provider’s favor. The typical consumer has no leverage to get the loan provider to play it straight at closing, and actually deliver what they said they would back when you signed the application. Many people never notice that their lender has taken advantage of them until they get the first payment notice, which is far too late to do anything about it. Furthermore, others never notice at all, and of the ones who do notice something is wrong in a timely fashion, eight to nine out of ten are so fed up with the loan process that they sign the documents anyway. I keep hearing sworn oaths from people who signed up with my competitors that they won’t sign the documents at closing if they’re not what they were promised, yet when I follow up the vast majority of them did. I can only conclude that these people actually enjoy being lead on like the rats by Pied Piper of Hamlin.

Assuming that you are not one of those people who enjoys being treated like a disposable rat by someone who’s making a goodly sum of money from your business, what can you do? The first thing is apply for a back up loan. As I say elsewhere, if you’ve got a back up loan lined up, you’ve got leverage. Your options are not limited to sign these documents or don’t. You can sign the other provider’s set of documents, and the person who lied makes zero. Or you can use the existence of an alternative to get both companies, if need be, to give you the loan you were promised in the first place.

But how can you tell if you’ve been treated right by the loan officer? There are dozens of pieces of paper that get pushed in front of you at signing. Disclosures for this and disclosures for that. Truth in lending statements. Yet more disclosures. Certificates good for a discount here and a discount there. This is partially legal requirement, partially intentional on the part of loan providers. There really is a legal requirement for most of these disclosure documents, but the loan provider likes that they are there because they all distract your attention from where it needs to be focused.

There are three documents at the heart of every loan closing. They are the Trust Deed, Note, and Department of Housing and Urban Development form 1 (HUD 1). I advise reading everything, especially any title transferring documents, so the lender cannot easily throw a curve in amongst the auxiliary documents. But most don’t bother trying. The three main documents are where you should be focusing your attention.

Sometimes, the Note is included in the Trust Deed, but most of the time they are stand-alone documents. The Trust Deed gets recorded with the county, while the Note usually does not. Some states that I haven’t worked in may use other systems (A Mortgage Note, for instance, which needs an actual court action in order to foreclose, and which California along with most other states have gotten away from because it is more costly).

The Deed of Trust is simple enough. Look over the Deed of Trust enough to see that it properly references and does not contradict the Note.

The Note requires more attention, and cross referencing between it and the HUD-1. Is the amount borrowed consistent with what you were lead to believe? Is the rate correct? Is it fixed for the correct amount of time? Is there a prepayment penalty, and if so, for how long? Check out the repayment terms, and make certain there are the payments are what you were lead to believe. The Note is what you are agreeing to by signing all of this paperwork. Make certain it reads the way it is supposed to. Take your time, read it over, do not allow yourself to be rushed. Do not think to yourself, “I’ve got three days to call it off” because once you are done signing the odds are long that you will not think about your loan further until your first payment becomes due, and that is too late. Read it now. If there is anything that you do not understand, ask for a clarification. Good clarifications start from a point of the wording that’s on the paper, and make easy sense in English. Do not accept a clarification that you do not understand. Do not sign hoping to get a better clarification later. Do not sign period if you aren’t certain you understand.

Check out the HUD-1. I’m working on a separate post to cover all of the issues there, but make certain the costs are what you were led to believe, and that it all adds up correctly. The numbers should start with the Old Loan (if Refinance) or purchase price, plus costs, plus reserves if you’re doing an impound account, plus prepaid interest, minus any money you’re bringing in (down payment, etcetera) or the seller or your broker is crediting you, and that should be the balance of the new loan. Take your time with the HUD-1 and the Note, and do not allow yourself to be rushed. Do not sign until you are certain that you understand and agree. If this takes a little longer than the signing agent planned for, tough. Many loan providers are adept at distracting you with this disclosure or that disclosure. Some companies actually provide them with training in how to distract you, and how to gloss over thousands of dollars that you didn’t agree to. Stick to your guns. The Note is what you are agreeing to, the Trust Deed is there to enforce it, and the HUD-1 is the only form accounting for your money that is actually required to be accurate. The Note, Deed of Trust and HUD 1 are what the lender is going to force you to comply with in a court of law. Make certain that they are what you agreed to before you sign them. If they’re not, well that’s why you applied for a back up loan, right?

Caveat emptor

One of the most overworked items in the real estate industry today is the pre-qualification for a loan. Sellers want buyers to be “pre-qualified”, and buyers are seeking “pre-qualification” to convince buyers they are serious.

The level of work done for a pre-qualification varies. In some rare instances, the loan officer doing the work not only runs the credit, but verifies the income as consisting of the proper income documentation paperwork (w-2s and/or taxes, plus pay stubs and/or testimonial letter) for the loan, and determines how much of a payment you can qualify for based upon known income and known indebtedness, and actually includes the assumed property tax due to purchase price in the payment calculations, and gives you an answer in how much you can qualify for based upon current rates at the time. This is a fair amount of work, consuming hours of time. A loan officer at a direct lender who goes through this whole procedure might be done in two or three hours. A loan officer working for a broker can actually take a full day, or even two, making calls to various lenders and shopping the loan around after the primary calculations are done. On real transactions, I’ve gone over two days on multiple occasions, trying to find a better loan.

The pitfalls and caveats are many. If the loan officer doesn’t run your credit, which costs money, they really have no idea what your credit is like. If they don’t verify your income, they are making a giant assumption that what you told them is accurate for purposes of a real estate loan (you get to use gross pay, but there are a multitude of potential adjustments). The payment you qualify for when you actually go to buy a house and get a real loan is a so-called PITI payment, which stands for principal, interest, taxes and insurance. Insurance is always an educated guess, unless and until you have a quote from a prospective insurer on a particular property for an adequate amount of coverage. Taxes here in California will be initially based upon sales price, and unless you live within one of the high property tax areas, is pretty much a set rate for the whole state, but there are many special assessment districts, scattered all over the state. I’ve seen properties with as many as four of these, although many if not most properties have none. It’s much harder in some other states to even come up with a meaningful rule of thumb figure. All of these factors throw the taxes figure off.

Principal and interest – the actual loan payment – is what’s left over from your allowed payment. From this, you can compute a principal loan amount based upon known interest rates.

Here’s where the games really start. The first question is “What type of loan are they basing it on?” The thirty year fixed rate loan always has the highest rate, which means that if they use that as their starting assumption, they are going to be able to “pre-qualify” you for less than somebody else can. What’s the lowest rate? A month-to-month variable or even a negative amortization loan (see link at the bottom of the article). Somebody assuming they are going to qualify you for a negative amortization loan is going to “pre-qualify” you for a larger loan – more than you can really afford. Which is more attractive to someone who doesn’t know any better? That’s right, the latter. Which one does someone who is educated want to drag into the sunlight and stake through the heart? That’s right, the latter. Amazing coincidence? Not really. From personal experience, many people do not want to become educated, even to the level of a competent layperson, and they will get taken for a ride as a consequence. What they want is to look at houses, pick out one they like, sign a couple sheets of paper, and move in. What these people are likely to get is a disaster. Many people in my industry make a very high class living ripping off people like this while setting them up with a gotcha that’s going to bite, and bite hard, but not until after they’ve got their commissions and depart the scene. “How many houses are they going to buy from me, anyway?” is the typical thinking.

One more concern is the fact that while sub-prime loan rates are higher, and in most cases they will have a pre-payment penalty, where A paper loan rates are lower and in most cases do not have a pre-payment penalty. However, the highest payment A paper loans will allow is less than the highest payment sub-prime loans will allow. So the loan officer can typically qualify you for a bigger loan based upon a sub-prime loan. See my article on “Mortgage Markets and Providers” linked below for more information.

Additionally, the rates on loans change from day to day, week to week, and month to month. It takes only a calculator to show that even an honest and complete “pre-qualification” done on a rate that’s valid today may or may not be accurate by the time you actually find a home.

Another game loan officers play is with the rate versus cost and points tradeoff. It is counter-intuitive but true that it is actually easier to qualify someone for a lower rate. If you qualify for a given loan program at 5.5 percent, you will qualify for the same program at 5.25 percent, but you might not qualify at 5.75 percent. The reason is that the payment is (or should be) lower if the rate is lower, and payment is what qualification is based upon. The cost to you is that most people refinance or sell before they have recovered the additional costs of these lower rate loans. (See my essay on Mortgage Rate and Points, which is linked at the bottom of this article for details and sample computations.) So they’re going choose a loan that sticks you with costs you’re not likely to recover, all in the name of qualifying you for a larger dollar amount.

THERE IS NO WIDELY-ACCEPTED STANDARD FOR “PRE-QUALIFICATION.” Let me say that again. There is no widely accepted standard for prequalification. Consequently, everywhere in the nation, but particularly in California and other high cost areas, the pressures on providers to “pre-qualify” you for inflated numbers is intense. If you don’t qualify for enough to buy any home, they obviously don’t have a transaction. If they pre-qualify you for less than someone else, most people are more likely to go somewhere else, and they don’t have a transaction. The competition is qualifying them based upon month-to-month variable loans or even negative amortization, and so if they don’t as well, they don’t have a transaction. Few people qualify clients based upon how things really are, and the easy transactions where everything fits and the people qualify based upon traditional measures are mostly long gone. If they don’t have a transaction, they don’t make any money. The don’t make any money, they don’t stay in business, they can’t make the payments on the Porsche, their house gets repossessed, their wife has to sell her jewelry to keep them off the streets, etcetera. It’s not a pretty picture for them, and it often leads to them putting clients into situations they cannot really afford. Finally, of course, the size of commissions is based upon the size of the transaction, so if they “pre-qualify” you for more, they have the prospect of making more when you buy the bigger house that you cannot really afford.

This doesn’t even go into the issues of a stated income loan. (See article on Types and Levels of Mortgage Documentation linked at bottom of this article). This is where you cannot prove income according to industry standards via taxes, w-2s, pay stubs, or perhaps bank statements for sub-prime loans, so you state your income and in return for a higher interest rate, the bank agrees not to verify the actual income level. Please note that it’s still got to make sense for someone in your profession. For example, if you are a school teacher they are not going to believe you $250,000 per year. But people do make up numbers much larger than the real amount they make. It is not for nothing that stated income is often called a “liar’s loan”. That is fine and good, as long as you actually can make the payment. When you can’t it’s a real issue. Not necessarily for the loan officer, who’s going to get their money and depart the scene, and as long as you make the first payment or two they’re off the hook, but for you, the client. Keep in mind that as soon as the loan is funded, that loan officer is out of the picture whether you went through a direct lender or not, and they know it. That real estate agent is also out of the picture as soon as you have your house, and they know it. You’ve got to live with the situation they created, and they kind of know it, but in many cases it just isn’t important to them. So watch out, and shop around. The person who “pre-qualifies” you for the lowest amount may be the one you should do business with, because they are using assumptions you can actually live with. Go over their numbers with a calculator in hand.

The stated income loan leads into our next issue, which is that few people will expend the necessary effort to do a “pre-qualification” correctly. It takes several hours to do an accurate “pre-qualification” correctly, but a Wildly Assumptive Guess takes just a few minutes. You may imagine which is done more often. This especially applies if the agent does not run credit or does not get income documentation. Due to the availability of the stated income loan, they really don’t have a need to be accurate, and due to pressures to come up with high numbers, their assumptions are going to range from pretty optimistic to wildly optimistic. This is wonderful if you just want to be able to say you were a homeowner for a few months while the bank forecloses on you. It’s not so great if you’re trying to get into a survivable financial situation.

You may get the idea that when it comes right down to it, most “pre-qualifications” are convenient fiction, worth an approximately equal size of toilet paper, if not quite so soft. You’d be correct. So “Why are they so ubiquitous?” becomes the obvious question.

The answer is sellers and seller’s agents. Sellers are going to go through a significant amount of trouble and expense going through the motions of selling their homes. Furthermore, they can only have one proposed sale in process at a time and they may have a deadline. They understandably want some kind of reassurance that this buyer can actually qualify for the loan. For their part, seller’s agents can be some of the laziest people I’ve ever met when you come right down to it. They’ve paid the money for the advertising that draws people or joining the big well-known National Brokerage With Television Advertising! Once they get the signature on a listing agreement, many think they’re entitled to sit around with thumb you-know-where and wait for the commission to roll in. They don’t want to go over the buyer’s pre-qualification with the seller, and some of them have no idea as to how to do it. But they certainly don’t want to carry out their part for more than one proposed transaction, hence their desire for this Magical thing called the “pre-qualification.”

The correct way to respond to this concern, for a seller, is simple and yet many people think it’s hard-nosed. Require a deposit. Require it be remitted to you on the last day of escrow as part of the initial contract, whether or not the loan funds. Now the standard form in California, as a default, makes the sale conditional upon the loan for seventeen days, but this can be changed by specific negotiation. True, you might scare away some buyers who aren’t certain that they’re qualified, and in buyer’s markets this may scare them away entirely. But you won’t enter into escrow with anyone who’s unsure. You shouldn’t rely on a “pre-qualification”, which is basically just a piece of paper that’s now been filled up with useless markings and so can’t be used again.

Furthermore, many buyer’s agents, knowing how useless a “pre-qualification” is, don’t want to take the time to do them themselves and so tell their clients to go get one somewhere else, but that when the time comes they have someone who will do the actual loan. It didn’t take very long for the word on this practice to get out, and so loan officers and agents with a very short time in the business learn not to do them unless they are going to get something out of it. Which basically means control of the transaction or an upfront payment. I certainly can’t name anybody with more than a few months in the business who will do a “pre-qualification” unless a client either signs a Buyer’s Agent Agreement or pays them a fee or does something that assures them they will get a transaction. And if your agent says go get a “pre-qualification” on your own, go and get another agent. If they or the loan agent they recommend can’t be bothered, then obviously they are too busy to give you the necessary attention to get your transaction done properly and on time. It’s very hard to fight the system that requires a “pre-qualification,” no matter how useless it is, but it’s part of the work they signed on for. They should do it themselves.

Caveat Emptor

The Truth-In-Lending is a form that can or does provide some useful information, but the useful information it provides is both smaller than most people think, and not in the numbers everybody looks at.

The first thing to be aware of is right below the title. “This is neither a contract nor a commitment to lend.” They are telling you right there that this is an estimate. It may or may not be a good estimate. That depends upon the loan officer and the provider they work for. Again, the relationship between this form at the beginning when you apply for the loan and the loan that is actually delivered with the final documents can be extremely tenuous.

The APR in the very first box is the result of an attempt by Congress to compress what is fundamentally at least a two-dimensional number into one linear measurement. It is intended to help give you a direct, one number measurement of the effective interest rate, given the expenses. But, in order to this it has to make some assumptions

The first of these is that you’re never going to sell. Back in the early 1970s with stable secure jobs for a large portion of the populace not only in government but in private industry as well, and people living their whole lives in their first house, this was a reasonable assumption. No longer. The median time for ownership duration is about nine and a half years.

The second of those is that you’re not going to refinance. This also was not an unreasonable assumption back in the early 1970’s. Our habits as a society have changed since then. The fact is that the median age of mortgages (half older, half younger) is currently about two years. Only something like 4 percent of all mortgages are older than 5 years. I’ll have other implications of these facts later, in other essays.

But by making this assumption, that you’re never going to sell and never going to refinance (again, for the fifth time) and just make that minimum payment every month for thirty years, it allows the illusion that you’re going to spread those costs out over thirty years, when the appropriate time frame is much shorter. This is a dangerous illusion. To give a specific example, because it means that, when measured by APR, a 5.5% loan with closing costs plus two points looks like a better loan than a 6 % loan with closing costs but no points. In fact, it is quite likely that the 6% loan is a better idea, and a 6.5% loan where the lender pays your all of your closing costs for you may be better yet.

Let’s go through the calculation involved. Assume they’re both thirty-year fixed rate loans, so you’ll actually keep getting benefits as long as you keep the loan. Assume the base loan we’re looking at is $270,000, the same figure I’ve used elsewhere. This can be either an existing loan, or a purchase where you need $270,000 beyond your down payment to cover purchase price and costs of buying.

As we computed in looking at the Good Faith Estimate, the closing costs of doing this loan are somewhere in the neighborhood of $3400 or so. But “third party” costs, such as escrow and title, are excluded from APR calculation, so we’re going to deduct about half of that, or $1700, from them when we calculate APR. I’m also going to assume that you actually pay all of your “prepaid” and “reserve” items out of pocket, which keeps things simple. Your actual loan amount in the case of the 5.5% loan with two points is $278,980, and your monthly payment is $1584.02. Your actual loan amount in the case of the 6% loan is $273,400, and your monthly payment $1639.17. The third loan has a payment of $1706.58 on a balance of $27000 even. The APRs (a complex calculation) work out to 5.742, 6.059, and 6.500 percent, respectively. Looks like the first is a better bargain, right?

Your actual interest expense the first month is $1278.66 the first month for the first loan, $1367.00 for the second. This is a difference of $88.34, and this number is actually going to increase for the first several years of the loan. The rest of the money is a principal payment. Equity. Money you don’t owe anymore. The principal paid the first month on the first loan is $305.36; on the second is $272.17, a difference of 33.19 the first month in the first loans favor. For the third loan $1462.50 represents interest and only $244.08 is principal. This is really looking like you make the right choice with 5.5%, correct?

But let’s look at two years from now – about the age of the median mortgage. I’m going to use the loan in the middle as baseline.

Loan 1 Loan 2 Loan 3
Interest paid $30,288.21 $32,418.26 $34,720.18
Principal paid $7,728.21 $6,921.84 $6,237.83
Remaining balance $271,251.79 $266,478.16 $263,762.17
Diff in interest paid: $-2130.05 $0 $2301.92
Diff in balance: $+4773.36 $0 $-2715.99
Net $ to you $-2643.31 $0 $+414.07

Loan 1 has paid $2130.05 less in interest, and $806.37 more in principal than Loan 2. Looks great, right? But they also paid $5580 more for the loan, or which $4773.36 remains on their balance. Remember, fifty percent of the people have sold or refinanced at this point. When you sell or refinance, The Benefits Stop. But the cost is sunk. You paid it in full two years ago. And at this point if you sell this home, you will actually get $4773.36 less in your pocket than in if you had taken the 6% loan. This is somewhat compensated for by the fact that you spent $2130.05 less in interest expense. But you’re still $2643.31 down as compared to the 6%, and there’s no way around that. Meanwhile, the 6% loan itself lags the 6.5% loan by $414.07 at this point in time.

And if you refinance, it gets even worse. You’re now paying interest on the $4773.36 in higher balance for the rest of the time you’re got your home. Let’s say the rate is 5% now because you got an even better deal. This means $238.67 per year, $19.89 per month extra that you’re going to pay for as long as you have that loan, all for benefits that you don’t get anymore and never paid for their costs in the first place. This is truly the gift that keeps on giving, isn’t it?

Now let’s look 5 years out, when over 95% of the people will have sold or refinanced.

Loan 1 Loan 2 Loan 3
Interest paid $74,007.65 $79,360.88 $85,144.66
Principal paid $21,033.41 $18,989.39 $17,250.36
Remaining balance $257,946.59 $254,410.61 $252,749.63
Diff in balance: $+3535.98 $0 $-1660.98
Net $ to you $+1817.25 $0 $-4122.80

At this point for loan 1, you have saved $5353.23 in interest and paid down $2044.02 more in principal, right? Yes, but you paid $5580 more for the first loan than you would have for the second, and you still owe $3535.98 of this difference. If you sell, you will get $3535.98 less to put in your pocket, although that will be more than balanced out by the interest you saved. Net profit to you of choosing the first loan: $1817.25, neglecting tax treatment. Boy did you make the right choice, right? But remember that over ninety five percent of everyone who made the same choice you did never made it to this point. Furthermore, if you’re like most people and you intend to buy some other property where the transaction includes a loan, that loan will have a starting balance $3535.98 higher to start with than if you’d chosen loan number 2 in the first place. Assume you got a great rate on your new home: 5% even. This means you’re now paying $176.80 per year in interest that you wouldn’t be paying if you’d simply chosen Loan 2 in the first place. Assuming you intend to own property for the rest of your life, in a little over ten years your gain is gone.

On the other hand, you are doing safely doing better with loan 2 than 3 at this point. The difference in interest you’ve paid has more than made up for the difference in starting balance. Whether you refinance or sell, it’s going to be difficult to make up $4122.80 with the interest based upon 1660.98. Assuming 5%, this is $83.05 per year it amounts to 50 years to recover. Loan 3 shows up pretty well against loan 1, though. $5196.96 difference in balance times 5% per year is $259.85. Divide the $1479.49 by this number and get that in 5.69 years, your benefits from loan 1 as opposed to loan 3 will be gone.

Now, if you get a great deal and refinance instead of selling, that extra $3535.98 that you still owe on that mortgage is still there, and will be for as long as you own that home. Assume you got a really great deal of 5%. This means $176.80 per year of extra interest expense – just from the fact that your balance is higher because of sunk costs to pay for benefits that have stopped. Assume you keep your home another five years, so altogether you’ve had it ten years since the initial loan. This has cut your gain to $933.25.

This happens all the time. It is not uncommon for me to talk with people who bought their homes in the 1970s, have refinanced ten or twelve times, and now owe more than ten times their original purchase price, a good portion of which is directly attributable to unrecovered closing costs of the refinances. Here’s the point: closing costs and points stick around, sometimes a long time after the benefits you got from them are gone, and people refinance or more often than most people admit. The only loan that CAN be ahead from day one is the true zero cost to the consumer. Everything else will pay for itself eventually, and more than pay for itself if you hang onto it long enough, but you’re sinking a significant amount of money in the bet upfront, money which is going to be around in your balance a long time. Furthermore, people don’t hang onto these loans as long as they think they will, and very few people hang onto them long enough to see profits from high closing cost loans. Finally, the rate at which a zero cost loan can be done varies from day to day, and by quite a lot over time. Let’s say six months from now I can do a 6% loan no cost. It costs you zero, and now if you’re loan 3, you’ve got the same loan at a lower balance than the guy who chose the 6% loan 2 above, whom I can’t necessarily help right now.

Then three years down the line, rates really drop, and I can do 5.5% for no cost. A call to both loan 2 and loan 3 nets borrowers who are eager to cut their rate for zero cost, but I still may not have anything that helps 1 in the sense of being worth the cost of doing it. Now loan 1, loan 2, and loan 3 all have the same rate, but loan 3 owes the least amount of money, therefore has the lowest payment, and has the most equity in their home.

Here’s another dirty little not very secret, but rarely publicly acknowledged, fact: People don’t always refinance into a lower rate when they refinance. If you’ve been a homeowner 15 years or so, chances are reasonable that you’ve done it – possibly more than once. Don’t worry, I’m not going to pillory you in public over it, but if you won’t admit it to yourself then there’s not a lot that can be done for you. People have various reasons for refinancing into higher rates, some of them reasonable, some of them relating to necessity, and some quite frivolous. But you’d be amazed at how often people looking to refinance expect me to believe stories that numbers show to be obvious fiction about how often they’ve refinanced a property. This is math, and if the numbers tell me you’ve been making payments on this loan for two years when you tell me five, I’ll bet millions to milliamps that if I go check the public records that are maintained on every piece of real property in the country I’ll find that Trust Deed recorded two years ago. Now, it’s okay to tell some lies of certain kinds to your loan officer, and assuming that any prepayment penalty has expired, this is probably one of them. No harm, no foul. What a typical loan officer cares about is getting paid, and if you’re withholding or correct information doesn’t make a difference to that, there’s been no harm done. A good loan officer will add, “Putting the client into a better position” to that first, paramount concern, and if the information you withheld would have resulted in a different answer to this question, you have only yourself to blame. (Looking for altruists in business is both pointless and hazardous to your financial health. Businesspersons donate huge amounts of time and money and energy to charities or other works for the public good. But we’re at work to Make Money. I am very good at what I do and getting better because I want to Make More Money, and mistakes do the opposite of Make More Money). But you need to be completely honest with that wonderful person you see in the mirror every day who follows you around twenty-four hours every day, shares in all of your triumphs and joys, and has to deal with all of your mistakes for the rest of your life. Otherwise you’re going to waste a lot of money on mortgages making the same mistakes over and over again.

Getting back to the actual Truth-In-Lending form, finance charge assumes you keep the loan the full term, as I have explained. Amount financed is subject to the same limitations as the Good Faith Estimate, and in fact assumes that the Good Faith Estimate is honest and accurate. So is the Finance charge. Neither of these, nor the Total of Payments, which is simply the sum of these two, is any more valid than the Good Faith Estimate this form is based upon. Do NOT use the Truth-In-Lending as a way to compare loans, numbers-wise. Many people do precisely this because it’s such a simple looking, easy to understand form. But if it’s based upon a Good Faith Estimate that’s not valid, it means nothing. Zip. Nada. Garbage In, Garbage Out.

Nope, the minimal information provided by this form is in the details that start about halfway down.

Demand Feature: If checked, this means the lender can require that you repay the loan in full, with a certain number of days (usually 30) notice. It can also mean there’s a balloon on the loan.

Variable Rate Feature: if checked, this means that at some point, if you keep the loan long enough, become a variable rate loan. I’ve seen loans that went as long as ten years before a variable rate kicked in.

Credit Life and Credit Disability are two products that I would generally recommend against unless it’s the only life or disability insurance you can get. Some states do not permit them to be a requirement of the loan – and in those cases where the lender would otherwise require one or both, you won’t get the loan as a result. (On the other hand, without these state prohibitions, many lenders would require them much more often, costing consumers in the aggregate billions. Just like everything else in mortgages, it’s a tradeoff with winners and losers no matter what you choose.) Both of these products typically pay any benefits directly to the lender, when you want them to come to you or your family. Buying your own life insurance or disability insurance is typically a much better idea.

Property and Flood Insurance The lender can and will require you to maintain proper insurance on the property as a condition of your loan. In California, they cannot require this be for the full amount of the loan, but they can and will require you to maintain coverage for the amount of full replacement costs – what it would take to rebuild your property as it is from the ground up. Many lenders delegate the responsibility for making sure this is done on their behalf to big administrative operations that cover the whole country, and they are ignorant of individual state law even for such major states as California. Be polite, but firm, when they tell you they are looking for coverage in the full amount of the loan. Flood insurance is a separate policy that can also be required if the property is on a flood map. The lender can either demand your loan in full immediately or purchase insurance on your behalf and force you to pay the bill if you fail to show them continuing proof of adequate coverage.

SECURITY: The first box should be checked for purchases, the second for refinances. In rare cases I do see somebody taking out a loan on a home that is free and clear to get a better rate than they would on a new property they’re buying, because they’ll get a better rate that way. In this case, the second box should be checked.

Filing Fees are for filing the papers with the county recorder, and should be the same as listed on the Good Faith Estimate

Late Charge basically discloses what your penalty for any late payments will be. It is expressed as a percentage of your normal monthly payment.

Prepayment penalty: Should tell you honestly whether there will be a prepayment penalty on the loan, but often doesn’t. Says nothing about the duration of it. Forget the second line. All of the costs to get you the loan are sunk and nonrefundable from the time you sign the papers. All of the interest that you pay as it is due is gone forever. You’ll never see it again. They earned it. They’re not going to give it back. I’ve never heard of a loan where in the initial contract the borrower was promised a rebate of part of those costs if they paid off early. Banks did make a lot of offers to discount loans if you paid them off in the late seventies and early eighties, but these were offers made at a later time, long after loan papers were signed, by the banks because they were losing their shirts buying money at 14% or so when it was already loaned several years earlier to customers at 6%. It wasn’t a part of the contract in the first place.

Assumption: This means that if you sell the property, the buyer can keep your loan in effect. The VA loan is the only one out there that is generally assumable by the buyer if you sell, but there are some other loans that are assumable as well. It’s not usually a good idea to let them, but there may be no alternative. The reason: You can still be liable for these if you do allow them to be assumed.

Then there’s a line where there are two final square boxes to check, where “* means an estimate” and “all dates and numerical disclosures except the late payment disclosures are estimates. Expect the second box to be checked. It’s all based upon the Good Faith Estimate. If they’re stretching the truth there, the numbers here are going to be similarly distorted. And if it’s not checked, that’s “an inadvertent oversight” and unlikely to be prosecuted. Which is as it should be – unless there’s a pattern of it, which is the case with all too many loan providers.

Caveat Emptor

I am not exactly certain how to start this essay. I’m kind of in a position analogous to writing Hitler’s biography in late 1940. We know at this point he’s a miserable excuse for a human being, but we don’t have the evidence discovered in the last four and a half years of the war as to how sick he truly was.

The negative amortization loan is something very similar. With Chairman Greenspan and even the heads of many building companies talking about locally frothy real estate prices, we are pretty certain that there’s going to be a drastic re-evaluation of the home market soon. We are missing the data of exactly how bad it’s going to be.

The negative amortization loan, with all its friendly sounding synonyms (Option ARM, Pick Your Payment, 1% loan, and variations and combinations thereof), is an idea that comes around periodically, and right now happens to be one of those times. Last time was the mid 1980s, and we had people driving their cars through the lobbies of savings and loan buildings in protest after they got hit with this loan’s GOTCHA! If you see ads on the Internet or elsewhere advertising “$200,000 loan for $650 per month!” (or something similar) one of these abominations is what they’re trying to hook you with.

These loans look, at first glance, to be wonderful – too good to be true. That is because they aren’t true. Furthermore, given the fact that loan officers and real estate agents want to get paid, and the damage isn’t apparent to the average consumer until well down the line, the unscrupulous ones sell a lot of these. I can point to loan and real estate offices where they do no other kinds of loans. Why? Because given the fact that most people shop for a loan or a home based upon the monthly payment, these are the easiest loans in the world to sell, and how many homes do you usually buy from a given real estate agent anyway? Cash flow is important, but watching only cash flow ends up in Ponzi schemes, Enron, and negative amortization loans.

I want to make very clear that yield spread is not a reason not to do a given loan. If a loan officer shops around and does the work to qualify you for a better loan on the same terms while increasing their compensation, they deserve to be paid that money. But you need to make certain that it IS a better loan by making an apples to apples comparison based upon what you, the client, are actually getting. For example, if one provider is getting you a loan at 5.5%, that looks to be better than 6.5% at first glance, correct? But if the first loan is only fixed for two years, and has two points on it as well as $4000 of closing costs and a five year prepayment penalty, while the second loan is fixed for thirty years and the lender is paying all of your closing costs with no prepayment penalty, I submit that the second loan is the better loan in most circumstances. The negative amortization loan, piece of garbage that it is, compares favorably with no other loan available today. The yield spread varies between three and four points on these things, with most of the lenders tending towards the higher end of that spectrum in order to compete. To give you a comparison, in order to get four points of yield spread on any other type of loan, I have to give people an interest rate at least two full percent higher than the going rate!

Basically, what this loan does is give you three or four options for your payment every month. The lowest of these is the bank allowing you to make a payment as if your interest rate was somewhere between one and two percent, with most of them now congregating towards the lower end of the spectrum in order to compete with one another. This low rate of 1% or so IS NOT YOUR REAL RATE. IT IS NOT WHAT YOU ARE ACTUALLY BEING CHARGED! I don’t know how many people I’ve talked to that were being taken for a ride and asked me, “Isn’t there any way this is the real rate?” THE ANSWER IS NO. Let’s pretend you are a bank officer. Remember, you’re one sharp person, and you have another whole group of very sharp people watching what you do. If for an equivalent amount of risk, you can get about 7 percent somewhere else with a different investment, are you going to give some poor sap I mean someone you don’t know a 1% loan that messes the heck out of your quarterly usage of capital bonus? Not on planet Earth.

The second payment option will be to make a payment based upon an interest only loan at the real rate you are being charged. I’ve seen the piranha that sell these loans trying to prey on each other extolling the virtues of COFI or MTA loans, depending upon which they have. The fact is that they’ve each got their limitations, and their upsides and downsides as opposed to the other. The problem with each and every one of these is that they are month to month variable from the beginning. There is no fixed period. You will never know next month’s rate until it happens. Thus far in my career, I’ve always had loans that are fixed for three to five years, at rates lower than this rate that the loan is really charging you. In other words, this second payment option is based upon a rate that changes every month, based upon the movement of an underlying index plus a margin.

The third payment option is to make a fully amortized payment based upon that same month-to-month rate. This is roughly analogous to a standard thirty-year loan, except that it is not fixed, and unless you make a payment of at least this much, next month’s payment options are going to be worse. The fourth and final payment option given by most lenders who do these is for the client to make a fifteen-year payment. Before we move on, the point needs to be made that almost nobody actually makes the payment for either of these options, much less makes these payments habitually as opposed to the other options. These payments are higher, and are not good selling points for this loan. If the client could afford to make these payments, there are better loans to be had. This is a metaphorical fig leaf to cover their naked taking advantage of you. “Well, he could make (or could have made) this payment but didn’t. It’s not my fault.” The reason they didn’t make the payment, Mr. Unscrupulous Realtor, is because YOU told them they didn’t have to. You SOLD them the house based upon the nominal payment, not the real cost.

Now, what happens if you make each of these payments? Obviously, if you make the payment for either the third or fourth option, you are paying your loan down. If you make the payment for the second option, that is basically a break-even, except that next months payments will be computed based upon one fewer month with which to pay the loan off.

What happens for 95 percent of the people who do these loans 95 percent of the time is they make payment option one. What happens in this case, where the client is making a payment that is less than the amount of interest on the loan for that month? The bank isn’t going to just eat the difference. That interest has to go somewhere.

Where it goes is into the balance of the loan. This means the balance for your loan – the amount you owe the bank – goes up every month that you make this payment option. Furthermore, next month it earns interest also. Next month the difference between what you pay and what you are charged gets higher, and even more money is applied to your loan. You’re being bit by compound interest. This is the first reason why the lenders will pay loan officers who do these loans so much. The lender knows that in the vast majority of all cases, the clients will end up owing them more money than they originally borrowed.

Furthermore, every single one of these loans that I know of has a three-year prepayment penalty. This means that even after you figure out that you’ve been taken for a ride, you’re either still stuck with them for the rest of three years or you’re going to pay a penalty amounting to thousands of dollars. Not a bad position for a lender to be in for leading you down the primrose path, is it?

I haven’t even gone over recast provisions (the 1% rate, even though it’s nominal, not real, doesn’t last forever), and various other lurking GOTCHA!s. I hear a lot of arguments from the various lazy lowlifes who make a habit of doing these loans rationalizing what they’re doing. “Those old loans had no cap. Now there’s a nine percent cap” If the client could afford six percent, there are other better loans to be doing. “They’ll more than make up for it in increased equity as prices rise.” A) Maybe, IF the market continues to rise, which is doubtful at the current time and never something you should bet other people’s financial health upon. It’s a crapshoot, at best, and the prevalence of these loans is one reason why the market is so overheated. In any event, the client is going to end up owing more money. Unless they’re going to sell and not be a homeowner any more, they’re going to have to pay the loan sometime, and in the meantime the longer they keep it, the worse it gets. What happens in three years if home prices are lower and the loan gets recast and now they cannot refinance out of it? “It’s the only way to get them into a home!” They still end up owing more money, and it’ll keep getting worse the longer they keep the loan. They’re still going to need to pay it back, unless they sell, and sell at a sizable profit. Furthermore, if they couldn’t afford a reasonable loan in the first place when they needed to borrow $X, what makes you thing they’re going to be able to afford a reasonable loan three years down the line when they owe $Y more. This is not a stable, sustainable situation! Maybe in a case like this, they should continue renting. Of course, that doesn’t get you a commission, does it, Mr. Unscrupulous Realtor? It certainly doesn’t encourage the client to stretch beyond their means and get you a bigger commission, either, does it?

For any loan officer who does these reading this, face it: These things are a way to mess up your client who is putting money into your pocket. These put the clients into worse situations than when they started. You are betting upon factors beyond your control to save you. One of these days, probably very soon, these are going to come back and bite you hard. Violation of fiduciary duty. All it takes is one of your clients getting into a bad situation who gets a good lawyer, and your career is toast along with your pocketbook.

For those of the general public reading this, I hope I’ve opened your eyes to some of the pitfalls of this loan. I’m perfectly happy to answer questions if you have them. But this loan is one that is designed for a narrow set of circumstances tailored around cash flow for a limited amount of time (and the one time I actually had a client who was the target market and who could actually benefit from this, none of the companies I submitted it to would approve it). It is abused by being misapplied because it’s such an easy loan to sell to those who do not understand the way they work, and all because people shop for a loan based upon payment. So don’t shop for a loan based upon payment. And if anyone offers you one of these loans, drag them into the sunlight, drive a wooden stake through their heart, and RUN AWAY! Somebody who offers you one of these is not your friend.

Caveat Emptor

Of all the issues having to do with a mortgage, the appraisal generates more overblown problems than any other part of the process. It’s also one of the most critical areas to handle correctly. There are reasons for this: It (along with perhaps the relatively cheap credit report) is the only thing a consumer has to pay for, as in money out of their pocket, before the mortgage is complete. Everything else is (or should be) done “on spec” by the mortgage provider. It is also a weapon used against the consumer by many mortgage providers.

In order to understand appraisals, you need to understand where everybody is coming from. An appraisal is a necessity for lenders. It tells the market valuation of the property in neutral terms. It is one of the essential anti-fraud steps of the process, as well as telling the lender how much the property might sell for in ideal conditions (which a foreclosure most certainly is not). It is the “market” part of the “lower of cost or market” valuation, which is driven into accountants and bankers starting with their first classes on the subject. Think about it. Just because you might be willing to pay $700,000 for the house next door to your parents (or for your parents old house itself) does not mean someone else will if you fail to make the payments. I have encountered at least two instances where a prospective borrower was definitely attempting to defraud a lender – and an appraisal caught it. There have been others where a reasonable person would have been less certain, but some of those instances were likely attempted fraud. Because of these, anytime somebody wants me to press for a drive-by or computer appraisal, a little blip goes off in my little bank of warning signal detectors. The lenders aren’t stupid. They know that lesser appraisals are cheaper, and employing the more expensive alternative requiring the consumer to write a check for several hundred dollars is going to cause some people to go elsewhere. It is the judgment of these highly experienced people who have been trusted to loan hundreds of thousands of dollars at a blow that an appraisal costs them less than an increased probability of the things it is designed to prevent. And when a loan officer like me presses them for a lesser appraisal, a little blip goes off on their radar screen, also. I can’t read minds, but I’ve had more success in getting lesser appraisals by keeping my mouth shut and letting the lender decide it’s safe enough on their own, then I have by asking for one.

You should not expect a mortgage provider to pay for an appraisal, like many will for a credit report. Unlike a credit report, an appraisal is several hundred dollars, and they don’t it get back if the loan doesn’t fund. My attitude, born of experience, is “If this customer is not sold enough on the benefits of the loan to front the money for the appraisal when I’m putting in a much larger investment of my time and administrative and support costs, then this isn’t a good investment.” Other people you may never meet such as the title company, escrow company, underwriters, processors, etcetera are also working in the background – and nobody gets paid if you change your mind, aren’t qualified, find a better deal, whatever. If they are hourly or salaried employees that do get paid, somebody else is investing the money to pay them. I may not have a fiduciary responsibility to all of them, but that doesn’t mean I don’t have any moral responsibility to see that their work is rewarded.

Furthermore, some lenders actually do prohibit brokers from paying the appraiser directly as an anti-fraud measure – and that’s one pointless piece of information I can ignore by having the necessary attitude to succeed in business. This does not mean that your mortgage provider isn’t doing their best to balance the competing interests – that of an appraiser’s right to get paid for what they do, versus a consumer’s desire not to pay for something that doesn’t help them. And twice in my career I have refunded appraisal fees out of my own pocket to customers who told me the truth as they knew it, but didn’t know to tell me something else (both fairly obscure points) that prevented the loan from going through. Because I didn’t ask, I felt morally obligated to compensate their loss. (This is not a legal requirement, and is not common – I’ve asked literally dozens of loan officers from all kinds of loan providers whether they’ve ever rebated an appraisal fee for any reason when a loan didn’t go through. So far, two others have said yes. Most look at me and answer “no” as if I’m some kind of alien from another planet. So go into the appraisal with a clear idea that if the loan fails, you’re not getting the money back. Period. That way you may be pleasantly surprised, but you won’t be expecting something unrealistic)

You should not expect an appraiser to work for free. It may not be rocket science, but it is an exacting field where in order to become licensed you must spend at least two years of your life as an apprentice, with an income of basically nothing. As a result, there is usually a shortage of appraisers. I’m often amazed that appraisals aren’t more expensive. On the other hand, many of them want to get paid for work that sabotages the loan it’s supposed to support. There is a Big Thing in appraiser’s association circles about how they hate loans with a minimum appraisal required, and explicit minimum appraisals actually are illegal. The appraisers, being normal humans, ideally want to be able to run their appraisal off the easiest comparable property values and let the chips fall where they may. On the other hand, there have been literally dozens of cases in my experience where choosing different but still comparable properties for comparison and doing a little more work netted the value necessary to make the loan work – the appraiser just didn’t want to be bothered, something that is against the grain of good business practice – and they are supposedly businesspeople. I have also seen this abused by a broker who wanted to make more on loans – if the appraisal came in for $40,000 more, this broker got a bigger rebate from the bank, and thus, made another $1200 on the loan. Lenders for their part do not want appraisals ordered where the appraisal is going to come in at a certain minimum no matter what the property is worth. But it isn’t a sign of good business practice to expect to be paid where your work is going to sabotage a substantial investment that others have already made in a project, as a below value appraisal does. It is naïve to expect that loan provider to continue to supply you with business, when you’ve just cost their former prospect several hundred dollars and kept that prospect from getting their loan, as a result of which the loan provider’s investment is lost, and furthermore you have left the loan provider to face all of the negative ramifications of an unhappy consumer. So some sort of compromise needs to be worked out among the competing interests of a consumer that doesn’t want to pay for something he doesn’t have to or that does no good, an appraiser that wants to get paid for the work, a lender that wants an honest appraisal, and a loan provider that wants an investment to pay off.

The one that I have found that works best is not a minimum appraisal. Besides being illegal, asking for a minimum appraisal is a violation of my fiduciary duty to the lender. Instead, what I’ll do is write something along the lines of “If comparables do not support a value of $X, please re-confirm the order prior to performing the appraisal.” It isn’t bulletproof, by any means. But it gives everybody the best shot at a fair shake without giving anybody carte blanche, and it prevents the vast majority of the problems. The appraiser does most of his or her work before going out to the house in question, checking sales of comparable properties in the Multiple Listing Service that they subscribe to. If the “comps” don’t support $X, and the loan collapses, he’s lost some work time. For a businessperson, this should be no big deal, and what they’ve lost is a small fraction of what other people working on this loan have lost. Furthermore, I’m going to keep sending business to that appraiser. If the comps support $Y, which is less than $X, and I can re-work the loan or find another loan and get the consumer to sign off on it based upon $Y (something that is far easier to do before the consumer gets angry at writing a $400 check and not being able to get the loan on the terms promised), the loan proceeds and the appraiser gets paid, and everybody is happy. If the comps support $X and the appraiser gets paid, everybody is happy – unless the actual appraisal comes in lower, and this does happen where a property is not as well cared for as most, doesn’t have standard features, etcetera. There’s nothing that can be done. You thought your home was worth $X, and it isn’t. End of story. The loan provider took every precaution they legally could. The appraiser took every precaution to protect you that they legally could, and now they’re entitled to be paid. It’s no fun for anybody – consumer, loan provider, or appraiser. I will put up with this a few times for an appraiser who makes a habit of calling me when the comps are low. I’ll keep sending them business. Chances are it’s not their fault. On the other hand, every so often I’ll get a call from some appraiser who gave me three “hop, pop and drops” (as in “hop on over, pop the consumer for the bill, and drop a uselessly low appraisal on them”) in quick succession, and wonders why his phone isn’t ringing. And of course, the various appraisers organizations are trying to pass legislation or regulations that basically give them the right to come back with any old appraisal they want to, and make it even more difficult to ask them to perform in accordance with good business practice.

An appraisal is not what your house will sell for. There are any number of subjective factors an appraiser cannot take into consideration, or cannot account for fully. The types of things they look at are objective. Size of the lot. Square feet of the house. Number of bedrooms. Number of bathrooms, and so on. These have all got measurable, objective answers. Cleanliness of rooms and condition of paint are hard to measure objectively. Nonetheless, potential buyers take them into consideration to a much greater degree than an appraiser.

One fact you should know about the appraisal: They’re good for a maximum of three to six months, measured from the date of the appraisal to the date the loan funds, which is likely to be thirty days or more after you apply. Usually three months is the limit if no loan was actually funded based upon that appraisal. If it’s older than the lender’s underwriting guidelines allow, every lender in the known universe is going to require a new one, unless your loan is one of the fortunate few that doesn’t require an appraisal.

The most important fact every homeowner or homebuyer needs to know about an appraisal: The entity that orders the appraisal, controls the appraisal. If you pay for it, you’re entitled to a copy. That doesn’t mean you’re going to be able to take it to another loan provider and use it. The appraiser will require both a release from the previous loan provider (who after all, is responsible for giving them business), and a retype fee of about $100, possibly more. Whether the loan provider will release it is problematical. They are not required to. Some won’t, no matter how good the reason. Some want to be paid, first. Even the most liberal and ethical aren’t going to release it if you’ve simply found a better deal. Remember, they’ve invested some serious resources in making this loan happen based upon your representation that you wanted it.

In another essay, I advise you to apply for a back up loan every time you buy a property or intend to refinance. Now I’m going to tell you the second smartest thing that you can do: Make certain you’re the one who orders the appraisal and owns it. Now some loan providers use only their own “in house” appraisers and require the appraisal to be paid for up front, when you fill out the loan application. They do this to make certain they keep control of the appraisal, so no other loan provider can use it, obliging you to pay a second appraisal fee if you want to go somewhere else. Unless you can get them to agree in writing to release the appraisal (they won’t), this is a giant red flag not to do business with that provider. The appraiser should be someone you have the option of choosing, and should be paid at point of service when the appraiser comes out to the home. (Don’t choose an appraiser who’s a family member, however. Lenders frown on this. Expect some pointed questions or having to get another appraisal if your name and the appraisers names are similar.)

Even other loan providers will try to slip in and assume ownership of an appraisal. If you want to control the appraisal, you must order it direct from the appraiser yourself, and if your loan provider provided the recommendation, the appraiser still might consider themselves bound if they get a significant amount of business there. On the other hand, as I also state in another essay, time is always a critical factor in every loan. The appraisal holds the whole process up if it’s not done promptly, and a reasonable appraiser is going to put his priorities on getting the appraisals done from the people he gets business from on a consistent basis. So if you’re going to order it yourself, order it immediately, or even on your own before you start the loan process if you know the parameters. This is difficult in the case of purchases, but very possible in the case of refinances. On the other hand, purchases are less time critical. Warning!: There are different kinds of appraisals, and different qualification levels of appraisers. There isn’t space here to cover them all. If you order the wrong kind of appraisal or order it from the wrong kind of appraiser, it’s useless. Just because 90% plus of all appraisals are the same kind from the same grade of appraiser or better doesn’t mean yours is one of them. The best way to handle this situation is to give the loan provider no more than two business days to give you the parameters for the appraisal, and be preparing the ground ahead of time by telephoning appraisers. Somebody that will charge $450 and do it within two days is almost certainly a better value than someone who will charge $350 and take two weeks. Immediately upon receipt of parameters from your loan provider, order your appraisal. That exact second. Don’t even put the phone down. As I said, time is critical. Some loan providers will not allow you to do this, insisting upon being the one to order the appraisal. This is a red flag. You probably want to take your business elsewhere. Handling the appraisal correctly is not trivial for a consumer, who after all is not usually a real estate professional, but if you handle it correctly, you put yourself in a position of much greater leverage.

Caveat Emptor

Most people tend to shop for a mortgage based upon the payment. They figure the lowest payment will be the cheapest loan.

This is the way most people make banks rich. Because they are looking for the loan with the lowest rate and the lowest payment, they choose the loan with two or three points that’s going to take twelve years to pay for its costs, and then after they’ve sunk all those costs into the front end of the loan, refinance within two years and sink a whole new set of costs into the loan. The bank gets all this lovely money, and then the consumer lets them off the hook by refinancing, and the bank doesn’t have to carry through on the full amount of their end of the bargain.

In point of fact, when shopping for a mortgage loan, there are at least four factors the consumer should consider. The best loan for a given consumer in a given situation at a given time is based upon all of these factors. Each varies in importance from loan to loan.

These factors are:

The monthly payment

The monthly interest charges

The costs that are sunk into the loan in order to get it

How long you’re likely to keep the loan.

This is not to say that only these factors are of importance. For example, the possibility of “back end” costs when you refinance is likely to be a critical factor when considering a loan that has a prepayment penalty. If you know there’s a good chance you’re going to get hit with an $8000 charge for paying it off too early, that needs to be added into the likely costs of the loan.

The monthly payment is important for obvious reasons. If this is not something you’re comfortable paying every month for month after month and year after year, then getting this loan is probably not something you should do. The costs of getting behind in your mortgage are significant, and the costs of going into default are enormous, and both may likely continue even after you have dealt with them. I talk with people all of the time who say, “We’ve got to buy something now, before it gets even worse!” Many agents and loan officers will happily put someone who says this into a home, with a loan payment that looks affordable on the surface, but isn’t. If you don’t examine the situation carefully, you’re likely to be getting into something you cannot afford, and is likely to have huge costs and ramifications for years down the line. Neither of these people is your friend. They are each making thousands, often tens of thousands of dollars, by putting you into a situation that is not stable, and that you’re going to have to deal with down the line, while they’re long gone and putting some other trusting person who doesn’t know any better into the same situation as you. If the situation is not both stable and affordable, pass it by.

With that said, the monthly payment is usually the LEAST important of these four factors. As long as it’s something you can afford, do not charge straight ahead, distracted by the Big Red Cape of “Low Payment” while you are being bled to death by other things. Many of these Matadors (which means killers in Spanish) will bleed you to death while acting like your friend by distracting you with the “affordable low payment”. Due to lack of a real financial education in the licensing process, a disturbingly large number do not realize they are bleeding people, but that doesn’t help their victims. A loan payment that is higher but still affordable may be a better loan for you – and in fact this is more likely true than not.

The three other factors are each far more important than payment. Payment is important. People who are unable to make their payments are called insolvent. Many of them file bankruptcy, have liens placed upon them, wage garnishments, suffer for years because of bad credit ratings, etcetera. But just because the cash flow is better right now does not mean the situation is better – that way lies the Ponzi scheme, Enron, and many other famous wrecks in the financial graveyard.

There is no universal ranking of which of the remaining three is the most important. They must be compared as a group in the light of a given situation: YOUR situation.

The monthly interest charges are simple. Principle balance times interest rate. This starts at the amount of the new loan contract (with all the costs added in, of course) times the interest rate.

The costs sunk into the loan shouldn’t be any more difficult to compute, but they are. As I have gone over elsewhere, it is an unfortunate fact that rarely does a mortgage provider tell the entire truth about the costs of the loan until it’s too late to do anything about it. If you have an ethical loan provider, the amount on the Good Faith Estimate (or Mortgage Loan Disclosure Statement here in California) should match what shows on your HUD 1 at the end of the process. Please remember to note any prepayment penalty or other back end charges as a separate dollar amount.

The thing that is most difficult to determine is how long you intend to keep the loan. Most people have no reliable crystal ball to gaze into the future.

The obvious answer to this dilemma is to compute a break even point. This completely falls short with regards to higher costs incurred after disposing of the loan as a result of having a higher balance, but it’s a start. If one loan has lower costs and a lower interest rate, there’s no need to go through the computations. But if as is common, one loan has a higher sunk cost and the other has a higher monthly interest charge, divide the difference in sunk costs by the difference in interest charges per month. This gives a figure in months that is a break even point. Don’t forget to add in any possibility of a prepayment penalty.

With this breakeven figure in months, you can calculate which is likely to be the better loan for you, using your own situation as a guide. If the breakeven is 54 months and you’re being transferred in 36, the answer is obvious. If you’ve refinanced at intervals of twenty-four months your whole life, a 54 month breakeven is not likely to be beneficial. If you’re going to need to sell in two and a half years when mom retires, that’s a clue, too. And if you’re a first time homebuyer starting out, remember that 50% of all homes are sold or refinanced within two years, so unless you have some reason to suspect that you are likely to be different, take that into account.

Caveat Emptor