Legal Late Payments on Your Mortgage

(I have noticed a fair number of hits to this article that, judging by their search query, probably want the article on What Happens When You Can’t Make Your Real Estate Loan Payment instead)

I got a question about legal late payments in California.

Unfortunately, there really is no such thing as a legal late payment. You borrowed the money, signed a contract, and it accrues interest according to that contract. You owe this money, and it only gets worse if you don’t pay it. There is some wiggle room so you don’t get unduly hit for a day or two late, or if the right to receive payments is sold, but that’s about it.

The law gives you some wiggle room in the timing of the payments. First off, the laws of California and most other states give you fifteen days after the due date to pay the mortgage before a penalty can be assessed. I know of a lot of people who make consistent use of this. If it’s due on the first, it’s supposed to be there on the first, but many people take advantage of the fact that there is no penalty as long as it’s paid within fifteen days of due date (i.e. before the sixteenth), and consistently mail their payment on the tenth or twelfth.

Now if you miss it by even one day, the penalty is up to four percent of the amount due here in California. As you might guess, most lenders charge the maximum penalty. When you compute it out, four percent times 360 divide by 15 is ninety-six percent annualized. I had my check get lost in the mail once and the lender waived the penalty when they called me on the eighteenth because I always paid on the first or before, but they didn’t have to do that. I got the distinct impression that if I were the kind of person who pays on the twelfth or fourteenth every month, they would not have waived the penalty.

Now, there is also some wiggle room on when the new lender receives it if your contract is transferred between lenders. Because once upon a time some unscrupulous lenders would sell notes back and forth between their own subsidiaries because it made them more likely to get late fees, or even able to foreclose on appreciated property when there were relatively few protections for borrowers in law. Mind you, you still have to send it on time, but if it gets hung up in forwarding between lenders, that’s not your issue. Within sixty days, the old lender must forward the payment promptly, and it counts as received when the old or the new lender receives it, whichever is first. It’s still better to send to the new lender at the new address if you have it or know it.

In short, although there are some small period where payment is allowed to be delayed due to one factor or another, it is never to your advantage to do so. Make your payments on time.

Caveat Emptor

Housing Bubble Death Trap

That was the wording of a search engine hit I got. It’s not literally a death trap, of course, only much financial pain. But the hyperbole is forgivable in today’s modern society and the state of the current market.

Other people may have other definitions of “housing bubble death trap,” but when I’m talking about stuff like that, I’m talking about someone who bought too much house with an unstable (or insufficiently stable) loan.

I just picked a couple random streets in older lower middle class neighborhoods, and looked back a couple of years. I found a couple of homes that have sold twice or are on the market again.

A 3 bedroom home sold for $487,000 at the end of last year. It’s back on the market now for $425,000. A condo sold for $285,000 at the end of 2004, and again just recently for $265,000.

Now just in case you don’t understand, the owner doesn’t get the full sale price, but they paid the previous sale price to buy it. Usual seller’s expenses run about seven percent or so. So for the 3 bedroom home, the owner is only going to get about $395,000 to pay it off, even if they get full asking price. For the condo, the owner only got about $246,000.

Now, let’s consider the sales involved. Either their down payment when they bought the home will cover it, or it won’t. If it does, the homeowner is out about $92,000 in the first case, about $39,000 in the second. This doesn’t include any prepayment penalties there may be or negative amortization it may have undergone, not to mention the cost of any payments they may have missed, etcetera, etcetera. There’s always a reason people sell for a loss, and it’s usually because they have no choice. They can’t make the payments (and never could) or they have been transferred, have to get housing elsewhere, and can’t make the payments. And what if the down payment won’t cover the deficit? Well, at the end of the year they are likely to get a 1099 form that says they got income from forgiveness of debts. As I understand it, this is ordinary income, and it can knock you up to higher tax brackets, both federal and state, if your state has state income tax.

So why didn’t the folks just refinance into something stable, you ask? They couldn’t afford the payments on a stable loan. Furthermore, they couldn’t refinance due to their situation. If you bought with anything close to 100% financing, and you lose $55,000 of value, well, banks don’t like lending money for more than the property is worth. There’s no security in it. Now there are 125% loans out there, but the rate is high and the terms are ugly. If you can’t afford the rate at 100 percent, or 95 percent of value, you certainly can’t afford the rate for over 100 percent. There are only two times that the value of a property means anything. One is when you buy or sell, and the value is whatever you paid for it, or your buyer pays. The other, alas, is when you refinance, and if you owe $480,000 on the property when similar properties are selling for $425,000, the odds of you getting a better loan with a lower payment are essentially non-existent.

Now if the folks are in a stable loan, and can make the real payments, it doesn’t really matter what the property is worth right now. You’re doing fine, whether you refinance or not. Refinancing might put you into a better situation, but if you can’t refi, you’re still doing okay. Yes, the prices are down and they’re likely to go down more. It just doesn’t matter if you don’t intend to sell and don’t need to refinance. Your cash flow is what it is, and if you really were okay with that to start with and the loan is stable, you’re likely okay with it now. If you got a loan that was stable for three or five years long enough ago to worry about loan adjustment now (or soon), you’ve likely got plenty of equity in the property now. If, on the other hand, you did a 2/28 interest only a year and a half ago, then you’re potentially looking at a payment adjustment in the next few months that’s suddenly two percent higher and fully amortized, which could be thirty or forty percent difference in the payments. Ouch. Out of such scenarios are losing a property to foreclosure constructed, with consequences even worse than the ones I talk about above. Just the act of lender filing a Notice of Default usually adds thousands of dollars to what you owe, never mind any payments you may have missed or been late.

This then, is what I call the Housing Bubble Death Trap. People who bought too much house with unstable loans, then had the market recede a little on them. Now they are upside down (owe more on the property than it is worth) with a loan they cannot refinance and cannot afford, and they can’t sell for as much money as they paid.

What are the loans to watch out for if you’re buying. Anything like stated income, where you’re not documenting that you make enough to qualify for the loan. Stated Income has legitimate usages, mostly for small business folk and those paid on commission, but should not be used nearly so often as it has been, of late. For all the people who have claimed otherwise (and used them for such), I have never seen a situation where I’d recommend any kind of negative amortization loan for the purchase of a property that you intend to live in. Stated Income Negative Amortization loans should scream out to anyone “WARNING, WILL ROBINSON! DANGER! DANGER! DANGER!” Short term (2 year) interest only loans are less clear-cut, but often a bad idea. These are sub-prime loans. I did a lot of 2/28 loans at six percent a couple of years back. They were intended as short term loans until folks’ credit improved, and that’s the way I explained them, emphasizing that fact that they have to make certain their credit score actually improves during those two years. They’re going to be around 8 percent the first six months they adjust, and a $300,000 6 percent interest only has a payment of $1500 per month. If it adjusts to 8 percent and starts amortizing with 28 years left to go, that’s a payment of $2240. I have a firm rule of no prepayment penalties longer than the fixed period of the loan, but I’m definitely the exception rather than the rule there among loan officers. If you were paying principal and interest all along, like most of my clients, you’ve got some breathing room (equity) in your property and the “payment shock” won’t be nearly so bad, not to mention that if your score actually went up, you likely qualify A paper now.

Three year (or longer) fixed rate A paper probably gives you enough breathing room in all but the worst of all market collapses, and I prefer at least five, with thirty year fixed actually being my favorite loan right now, due to the fact that depending upon the lender and the client, I may actually be able to get them cheaper than anything else. This, however, is a short term phenomenon of the moment, due to the yield curve being inverted, and once it straightens out, I’ll be doing more hybrid ARMs again.

Caveat Emptor

Homesteading and Declaration of Homestead

One topic I haven’t covered yet here is homesteading. This has nothing to do with the Homestead Act of 1862 that encouraged settling the western United States.

A declaration of Homestead basically protects your equity. In many cases, you may not even have to file a declaration to receive the benefits, but whether this is so is complex. If you file, you remove the ambiguity.

A homestead declaration may only be filed upon a primary residence, and only if you own it. Rental property, second homes, and property held for business purposes is not eligible. Law between the states varies, as does the exemption amount

How it works is pretty consistent. First off, it protects no equity arising from dates prior to declaration. If you are in one of those situations where you have to explicitly declare homestead instead of it happening de facto, you have to actually declare it before the incident happens. You get in a traffic accident that’s your fault, and go out and declare homestead the next day, it won’t help you protect your equity against that particular lawsuit.

Note that it protects your equity, not your asset value. If the home is worth $500,000 (as is often the case in San Diego) but you owe $400,000, you have $100,000 of equity. How much it protects is dependent upon your state law and exact situation. Default protection in California is $50,000, but it can be up to $150,000 if you or your spouse are 55 or older, disabled, or have income less than $15,000 per year.

It can also prevent sale of the property in some, although not all situations. In California, the judgment creditor usually has to get a court order, after they have won the judgment, in order to sell the property. I’m not a lawyer, so I’m not going to presume to advise anyone on what those circumstances are.

Now, there is some question in some minds as to whether a homestead declaration inhibits enforcements of Deed of Trust, so many lenders will require an abandonment of homestead prior to funding their loan. You can always re-declare as soon as the loan funds, anyway. I know that some folks have fought this issue in court, costing the lenders money to pay their lawyers, so it’s hard to blame the lenders for requiring it. You can refuse to do this, but they can also refuse to give you the loan. It’s their money, and they are the arbiters of how they lend it out.

Caveat Emptor.

Failures of Imagination?

I recently discovered the film Secondhand Lions. Robert Duvall, Michael Caine, and Haley Joel Osmont. Beautiful tightly plotted movie, highly recommended, and if it hadn’t been up against Return Of The King it might have won Best Picture. Robert Duvall and Michael Caine are a pair of brothers, old coots who disappeared for forty years before turning back up in Texas. Everyone knows they’ve got money, and everyone’s got their theories as to how they got it. One person thinks they were mobsters, another bank robbers, a third contract killers. Nobody knows where the money is, and everybody wants to get their hands on it. Walter (Haley Joel Osmont) is their great nephew dumped off with them by his mother for the summer. Over time, Michael Caine starts telling this fantastic story about where they were all that time, what they were doing, and incidentally, where they got their money. Along the way, we see how the two old brothers treat the world around them, and the boy starts to get a sense that there really is something to their story, no matter how many people tell him otherwise because it’s too fantastic. Nothing out of science fiction or fantasy, but quite a bit of the stuff that romantic fiction is made of. The imaginations of the adults simply will not stretch far enough to believe what you as the observer suspect more and more along the way is the truth. They’re older, “wiser”, and “not that naive.” But the story Michael Caine’s character tells is not only compelling, but has all the little elements that make it believable and fits with the way the brothers treat the world around them, and when the major confrontation happens, Walter decides he believes his great uncles rather than his mother (who’s lied to him for convenience many times) and her latest sleazy boyfriend, who are trying to justify stealing the two brothers’ money.

There is eventual corroboration of main theme of the brothers’ story just as the picture ends, after a twenty year fast forward, but by that point the viewer who has been watching carefully doesn’t really need it, and the point of the corroboration is elsewhere. The watchers of the movie have seen the evidence. No matter how unlikely, we know it’s the truth, even if those characters stuck in denial on the silver screen do not. If Michael Caine has possibly embellished the details a bit, that’s not really important. You know that the basic story happened, where the on-screen adults refuse to believe.

This happens in the real world, also. When Heaven’s Gate group suicided, the local rag ran a transcript of the sheriff’s call. The first officers at the scene just could not understand what happened, despite it being fairly straightforward logically. Their minds just could not make the deduction. Their prejudices refused to believe 39 people could commit mass suicide, and they asked for back-up partially to figure out what had happened.

The real world happens, and it cares not a whit for our prejudices and experiences. It just is. It doesn’t matter whether we believe there is an express train coming down the track or not. We’re just as spectacularly dead either way when it hits us.

We have once again reached a point in history where many people believe that their perception is everything, despite it missing a large number of data points and ignoring another large number of them. People who would have no problem demanding immediate action if a group of neo-nazi skinheads took over the government of Germany, changed the flag to a swastika, built up their army, and started saying things like lebensraum and Drang Nach Osten and Judenfrei, nonetheless have a failure of imagination when it comes to the Islamists. When you’re talking about the Nazis, I don’t imagine anyone would have any problem extrapolating what would happen next. It’s all happened before, and most of us have heard stories about it and seen movies and television ad nauseum (Hollywood has no problem with Nazis as bad guys; after all, they attacked the communists and almost won). Indeed, many folks believe something very similar has happened here in the United States, despite the vast weight of the evidence to the contrary. For example, instead of metaphorically “scapegoating the jews” so to speak, we are going quite a distance out of our way not to hold those of the ethnicity that was responsible for the most recent atrocities, despite the fact that a not insignificant proportion have actively worked to advance the cause of those who perpetuated the atrocities, and yet we refuse (mostly correctly) to allow our law enforcement and counter-terrorism units to concentrate their efforts on this ethnicity. We have yet to restrict them in any fashion, or treat them in any way disfavorably as compared to any other group. Compare and contrast this to the treatment that the Jews received in Nazi Germany, even before Kristallnicht. Consider that we are gearing up for Congressional elections, not burning the Reichstag, and that it is accepted by all concerned that our current president will leave office in January 2009 while having no apparent successor currently in sight. Indeed, for the first time in 56 years, we will have neither a sitting president nor vice-president on the ballot in 2008.

Why, if we are so intent upon manufacturing threats and conspiracies, are we unable to believe the publicly stated intentions of a large faction of a major world religion? They make no secret of their Islamist doctrine, and conquest for the sake of spreading their religion is embedded far more strongly in the dogma of Islam than it ever was in Christianity, yet a significant portion of our population completely discounts this threat while obsessing about the “establishment of a theocracy” here in the United States, presumably of the fundamentalist or evangelical Christian stripe. Despite their words, despite their actions, it’s almost as if these people have dismissed the islamists as being unimportant, much like the British Empire of a century ago dismissed the request of one chinese mandarin who inquired as to when this barbarian chieftainess Victoria was going to come do homage to the Son of Heaven? The world today is different in many ways, but one of the most important is the damage a small group of dedicated people can do.

There is the fact that there have been christian theocracies, many of them spread all over europe. There is also historical favoritism towards protestant christians in this country. However, there hasn’t been a single christian majority nation which has been believably a theocracy since at least the Spanish Civil War, and not really since the French Revolution. Protestant favoritism has never been legally based in this country, and its social practice in this country and elsewhere have been dying since the end of World War II and in another generation you’ll have people who don’t even realize that protestants used to be favored.

Compare and contrast this to Islamic nations, where the dhimmi tax is the order of the day, non-moslems are severely restricted in their opportunities and not allowed to do certain things. There is no imagination required to believe Islamists intend exactly what they say; these are typical practices in those countries that are officially islamic.

Consider the treatment of non-islamics in islamic countries, and historic militant expansionism of islam. Dhimmi is real. It is happening today. The pressure to adopt Islam is intense, starting with increased taxes and going from there through being unable to bring any kind of legal action against a Muslim, not being allowed to testify against them in court. If ever you give in, and accept Islam, not only do the imams have dominion over you forever, but you are never permitted to give it up. If you are raised in an Islamic household, you will be required while still a child to profess islam, and once you have done so, there is no recognition of the fact that you may have done so under coercion, or before the age of consent. You are moslem forever. Not even in the darkest, most repressive days of christianity did the christian priests go so far. Several muslim countries still enforce the death penalty for apostasy – attempting to leave the islamic faith.

So far, I have ignored the militant nature of Islam, how it carried the religion at the point of a sword all the way from Arabia to the Philippines and Morocco and Spain, most of it within a century or so after founding, and how it wants to do so today. Indeed, it is doing the best it can towards that purpose. Christianity a hundred years after the death of Jesus, or Paul, was a small sect, and if not generally persecuted to the degree portrayed in christian mythology, was officially forbidden and hid in the shadows where nobody looked. The reason we have so few examples of early christian lore, or buildings, is because they were forced to hide from official notice. For nearly three centuries, this was how christians lived. The christian philosophy has developed in accordance with this fact; it does not need official sponsorship from the state in order to attract believers.

Islam has never done anything of the kind. Indeed, they would likely have become something more akin to christianity if they had had to live thus. What they did in India was in no way atypical. I’m not going to pretend the Crusaders were saints, but the moslems, in general, gave at least as good as they got in terms of atrocities (there were some exceptions). The conquest of Cyprus, Syria, and Persia all had their atrocities. Not to mention the destruction of most of the remnants of classical civilization in Africa. Vlad Tepes was mostly noteworthy for being one of the few non-moslems willing to be savage enough to give them pause. Here’s one more link just to drive the point home.

So what,” you say, “The last major offensive of the Islamic world was in 1683.” True enough, but it was the last because they ran out of the means to carry them out, not because they had renounced conquest in the name of religion. The europeans had built their own civilization, and their technology, both civil and military, surpassed the Ottomans. By the time of Lepanto in 1571, it was only greater numbers that made them formidable, and when the southern european powers of the Mediterreanean combined against them to generate approximately equal numbers, the Turks were beaten. By the time of their last assault on Vienna, even superior numbers were insufficient to achieve their objective.

Not only have the Islamists today never given up on the goal of spreading their religion through conquest and force, the laws in the islamic countries hobble any who would speak against them or moderate their influence. It is a mistake to think of an islamic ruler as having the same sort of power that an absolute despot in most of the rest of the world. The real power lies in the mosque, which may grant the ruler some leeway, but nonetheless rules with an iron hand, and there are few islamic rulers who have successfully defied their priests. It is probably closer to the mark to think of their nominal rulers as administrators, because although they have discretion and authority of their own, there are boundaries they cannot cross if they wish to retain their position or their lives, as both Nasser and Sadat of Egypt, to name the first examples that spring to mind, demonstrate. Neither the ruler nor anyone else can fight sharia, and sharia supports the Islamists. There are a number of courageous moslems, primarily in the west, who have spoken out against Islamism and various parts of Islamic law. To date, I cannot point to a difference they have made in the overall islamic mindset, and many of them are under fatwas of death. I respect and admire them for speaking out, but thus far I cannot see that they have had much effect.

In short, this situation is in no way, shape, or form comparable to what limited efforts that christians have made to promote their values through legal-based means. The Islamic theocracies might be very comparable to Nazi Germany, if the Nazis had been in power for 1400 years and essentially every german was a true believer in Nazism and the virtues of the master race. This was not the case, as is demonstrated by the actions of Oskar Schindler and the White Rose group, among many others. China under Mao, the greatest mass murderer in history, comes closer, but even that falls short of the degree to which Islamic society proscribes disagreement with, and debate about its religious precepts, let alone the penalties for acting against those principles. If any imam has yet disavowed or spoken against world conquest by Islam, it’s news to me. I just executed searches on several major search engines, and didn’t come up with any. I seem to recall the pope apologizing for the crusades and indeed, christians have questioned them almost since they happened. I haven’t heard of any reciprocation from moslems for their co-religionists’ deeds in the same places, before, during, and after.

With all of this evidence readily available, if not precisely trumpeted by the guardians of our national discussions, the media, I cannot put the failure to comprehend the threat down to a failure of imagination. The data, the explanations, have been laid out quite solidly any number of places and they are easily findable on any search engine (except perhaps the ones based in Islamic countries, which are censored much the same as Google, MSN and Yahoo drew so much fire for accepting and cooperating with in China). Those sheriff’s deputies who encountered the Heaven’s Gate bodies I mentioned earlier did figure it out for themselves, although it took them a bit longer than you might think if you’d never been in a similarly worldview stretching situation. But they did manage to stretch their worldview to accommodate new facts. Those who do not believe in the war on terror are being presented with new facts that contradict their worldview, and instead of adapting their worldview to the new facts, they pretend those facts do not exist. Instead of believing in quite open and blatant islamist conspiracies for world domination, they insist upon creating ones which do not stand up under the comparison with known facts. This is not a failure of imagination. This amounts to nothing less than a willful denial of evidence, much like any number of scientists in the past refused to believe theories which described the world better than existing theories and correctly predicted subsequent events, much as the islamist hypothesis has correctly predicted everything from the arrests and other activity in Egypt to Iran wanting to join Pakistan in the nuclear club to the actions of the Wahhabi priesthood in Saudi Arabia.

TO BE CONTINUED

Buyer’s Basic Guide to The Foreclosure Market and REOs

I’ve written articles on when you can’t make your mortgage payment and how to react if you see foreclosure coming in time to do something about it, and even on Short Payoffs, but all of those are owner (seller) oriented. This is intended as a basic buyer’s guide to getting a bargain from people who bit off more than they could chew, with emphasis on the current local market but applicability anywhere.

There are essentially four phases in the foreclosure process. The first is pre-default. They’ve made late payments or none at all, and there’s no way they can keep the payments up, but they won’t to the intelligent thing, which is sell for what they can get. Many people who own properties headed for default are deep in Denial. Yes, this is often because something bad happened to them for reasons beyond their control. I’d be happier if those sorts of things didn’t happen, but the amount of rescuing that’s going to get done is minimal. There are very few White Knights running around, and the ones who claim to be White Knights are usually blackguards. Unless the seller knows of some factor that is going to change, this is the smart time to deal with the problem. Before the Notice of Default is recorded, nobody really knows but the owner and the bank. Once the Notice of Default hits, all the sharks come out because everyone knows the owner is in Dire Circumstances. Let’s face it: most folks will make the payments on their home even if they let every other bill slide. When someone can’t make their mortgage payment, and it’s public information as a Notice of Default is, everybody and their pet rock knows thet don’t have any choice but to sell. They’ll flood you with offers, but they won’t be good offers.

Now if you’re looking to buy at this stage, the thing to do is examine the Multiple Listing Service. “Motivated seller” and similar phrases are often code for “These people can’t make their payments!”, particularly in the current market with prices declining somewhat and many people who stretched beyond their means. It would be great to be able to get a list of properties that are sixty days or more delinquent, as this would include the folks in denial, but it just isn’t going to happen. The only folks who know are the banks and the credit reporting agencies, and they are prohibited by privacy laws from disclosure. So at this point all you have to deal with are the people who are not in denial. When the market is rapidly appreciating, this is a good place to find a bargain, because once the Notice of Default hits, the sharks swarm, so if you can find these people before that, you’re in a strong bargaining position if you correctly suspect they can’t make their payments. The taxes being delinquent is often a good indicator of this, but there is no way to know for sure unless the people or their agent tell you, and the agent who tells you has just violated fiduciary duty. This can mean prospective buyers overplay their hands in negotiations, which is fine if you intend to move on if you can’t get a “Manhattan for $24” type deal, but if it’s a property you want and can make money on, overplaying your hand can poison the atmosphere. There aren’t many “Manhattan for $24” type deals out there. There are a lot more good opportunities for someone willing to pay a reasonable price and hold the property a while or make improvements. Deals so good that they instantly make oodles of money, someone will usually come along and offer the poor schmoe on the other end a better deal, and if the poor schmoe has a decent agent who’s looking out for their interests, they can switch to the other offer. Buyers and escrow companies don’t like it, but it can be done. It’s extra work for the listing agent, so they may not want to, and they may not have done the best set-up, but it can usually be done anyway.

The reason it’s smart for sellers to sell at this time is that this is when they are going to get the best deal. The mere act of entering Default is likely to cost thousands of dollars. Furthermore, this is the phase with the most opportunity to find a property at a better than usual price for buyers, because most of these don’t get to actual default. Someone will come along and make an offer, and a listing agent who gets an offer on one of these is likely to advocate taking the first reasonable offer, reasonable being defined as “anything vaguely in the neighborhood of the asking price,” and the asking price itself is likely to be lower than it otherwise would be.

The second stage of the foreclosure process is default. The Notice of Default has been filed, and because it is a matter of public record, the sharks instantly react to the blood in the water. The seller is going to get dozens to hundreds or even thousands of solicitations. Also, once the property is in default, the bank can require the owner bring the Note entirely current in order to get out of default. Whether or not the property is listed, they’re going to have agents offering to sell it for them, individual buyers who want those Manhattan for $24 deals, and lawyers offering to “protect” them by declaring bankruptcy. By the way, I’ve never heard of anyone who came out better in the end by declaring bankruptcy, so you probably don’t want to do it if you’re in this position. I know it’s your home, and you’re likely extremely emotionally attached to it, but declaring bankruptcy doesn’t mean you don’t owe the money when it comes to a Trust Deed. Every single one of these folks, lawyer, agent, or prospective buyer, knows that you’re in default. Some owners are still in denial at this point, but all denial means at this point is that such an owner is not likely to take the best offer they’ll get. It’s at this phase that most “subject to” deals happen, usually with highly appreciated properties with significant equity over and above the trust deed. If the owners owe anything approaching the value of the property, that’s a silly situation to do a “subject to” purchase for buyers, and most of the prospective buyers (those with decent advisors or agents or experience) won’t do it if the equity is less than a certain amount or proportion of the value.

The third phase of a foreclosure is the auction. This is typically a very short period. Five days before the auction date itself, the owner loses the legal right to redeem the property, although the bank will usually let them until the last possible instant. There is also a legal requirement to vacate the property before the auction. “Subject to” deals can still go through as long as the bank will accept redemption. Now the auction itself requires cash or an acceptable equivalent. You don’t go to the auction and then get a loan later. At the very least you have to have the loan prearranged and a check for the proceeds in hand. This can mean that the rate is significantly higher, and it can be difficult to refinance within the first year.

The fourth phase is after the auction. In California, if the property does not get a bid for at least ninety percent of appraised value, it does not sell and becomes owned by the bank. The bank doesn’t want it; they’re not in the real estate business and in fact, they are legally required to dispose of it within a certain time. In the current market, this can be the best place to acquire a property. The bank knows they’re taking a loss, and the longer it goes, the bigger the loss. Mind you, because the bank usually takes a loss, few properties go to this stage. The lenders will usually do anything reasonable in order to avoid auction, but once it goes to auction, they want to get rid of it. They usually require a substantial deposit, but the purchase price can be the best of all.

One thing to be wary of in foreclosures is they are often in less the ideal condition, to say the least. These people know they are losing the house, and often that they are going to come away with nothing in the best realistic case. They have no incentive to take care of the property, and many actively work to mess it up. This is cause for care in purchasing them, and inspections, because not all of the damage may be obvious. Furthermore, many of them may have been unable to afford proper maintenance for some time before they lost the property. Purchasing a foreclosure can mean you will need a large reservoir of cash in order to fix up the property to habitable condition.

Caveat Emptor

Shopping for Long Term Care Insurance – Who Should and Shouldn’t Buy, and Policy Characteristics

I’ve run two prior articles this week on the theme of Long Term Care, one on Long Term Care Issues, and one on Non-Tax-Qualified versus Tax-Qualified, and Partnership Insurance Policies. Now, I’m getting down to nuts and bolts of what you need to know while shopping for a policy.

The two most important characteristics are the total benefits and the daily benefits. It may be helpful for many people to think of total benefits as a lake, where instead of water, it contains the total amount that is available to you, and the daily benefits as the size of the pipe that brings those benefits to you when you need them. It doesn’t do you much good to have a huge lake and a too-small pipe that can’t put out the fire, which is the daily bills you have to pay for care.

The way policies are generally sold is that they are for X number of years, with a daily benefit limit of $Y. The product of these numbers (and 360 days per year) is the initial total benefits limit. A one year policy with a $150 per day limit is good for $54,000 of total coverage. A three year policy with a limit of $300 per day is worth $324,000 of total benefits. A five year policy with a limit of $180 per day has that exact same aggregate coverage limit of $324,000. There are lifetime policies available; these have no aggregate limit but are limited to whatever the daily benefit is.

Note that a three year $300 per day policy is superior to a five year $180 per day policy in that although they both have the same “lake” of benefits, the former has a larger “pipe” (or “stream”, if you’d prefer) to get them to you. Therefore, the policy with the large pipe will be more expensive. It is an often misunderstood part of policies that there is no time limit for benefits. You can use less if you like, but you can’t use it faster than the pipe brings it to you. If it takes you three, five, seven, or seventeen years to exhaust the “lake” that’s how long it takes. I’ve known agents who did not understand this clearly. If you only use $60 per day, either of these policies will last fifteen years. But if you use $250 per day, the former will pay off the full amount of your daily benefit until exhausted (about 3.6 years), whereas if you have the latter, you’re going to be out of pocket $70 per day from day one. This can cause you to exhaust the resources you were trying to protect well before the policy is done paying benefits. The “time duration stated” – the Y years part – is the shortest amount of time in which it is possible to exhaust your lake of benefits. It has nothing to do with how long the benefits can last, which is always “until exhaustion.” Given the facts of the situation, it is better to have a big “pipe” than a long duration, and in the example given, the 3 year $300 per day policy will be the more expensive. It’s also likely to be worth the difference. For Partnership policies, the state of California currently has a minimum daily benefit limit of $130.

It is to be noted that for the Partnership policies, at least in California, the limit is actually a monthly limit of thirty times the daily limit. Many other policies follow this as well. This means if you get something that costs extra once or twice a week, like physical therapy, as long as your entire monthly care does not exceed thirty times the daily benefit, you won’t be out of pocket for those not-so-little extras.

Policies are sold as home care only, facility care only, or comprehensive, so called because it covers care where ever you may need it. Actually, here is a Glossary of terms you may want to refer to. Partnership is only sold in facility care only and comprehensive policies. My advice to to buy a comprehensive policy, because you never know what your situation will be when you actually need to use benefits. The difference in cost is typically small.

One of the really sneaky ways some insurance companies can stick you with a gotcha! is to require you to continue paying premiums while you are receiving care. Since you’re likely in a situation of incompetence, or just plain unable, this is a good way to get out of paying benefits. (“But your honor, Ms. Jones did not continue to pay her premiums as is clearly required by the policy! We are clearly within our rights to cancel”). Insist upon a policy with waiver of premium upon commencement of benefits. This means you don’t have to continue paying your premiums when you may not be mentally capable, or able to get new checks, or any of dozens of other possible hitches. In California, waiver of premium is required for all Partnership policies.

Policy Lapse Protection is similar, having to do with reinstating your policy if you neglect to pay the premium before you are diagnosed as needing care and it lapses for that reason, but good policy lapse protection is actually fairly widespread. You’re going to have to pay the back premiums, “bring your payments current,” and there may be an administrative or interest charge, but better that than needing an entirely new policy. This is not “don’t make your payments for ten years and drop a lump sum on them when your doctor diagnoses you with Alzheimer’s.” About six months to maybe a year in some cases, is about the limit of lapse protection.

Elimination period is the time after you start receiving care, before your policy starts paying benefits. It’s analogous to the “deductible” on your automobile insurance. Short elimination periods are more expensive, longer ones less so. I would not consider an elimination period of less than ninety days, or more than six months. Even at $200 per day, the person who is an appropriate buyer of long term care insurance should be able to fund three to six months or so. Lengthening the Elimination period makes the policy cheaper. Indeed, a three year policy with a six month elimination period may be cheaper that an equivalent two year policy with a three month elimination period. The average stay in long term care is something approximating two years, but in a large number of cases it is five years or more. If you’ve got assets to protect, you can likely afford three to six months, but fewer people can afford years of coverage. If you’re lucky enough to live in one of the states with an active Partnership for Long Term Care, the asset protection function means you continue to receive benefits even after the policy is exhausted. Even if you don’t live in one of those states, the policy can get you through the “lookback period” where Medicaid will go back and attach any assets you transferred elsewhere. I know I’ve said Medicaid coverage is awful, but if you still have money, or people willing to spend money on your behalf, you can make it a lot more tolerable than it is for someone who is truly destiture.

Pre-existing conditions are not something to unduly worry about here, in my experience. If you have a pre-existing condition, the insurer is only allowed to exclude paying to treat it for six months in California, and I believe (but I am not certain) that this is an NAIC rule, which would mean it likely applies nationwide. This can mean that you will be flat out rejected until/unless you recover, but this is in accordance with the principles of insurance. You buy insurance when it’s a risk, not a certainty. You don’t wait to buy health insurance until the heart attack starts, you don’t wait until you’ve got terminal cancer to buy a life insurance policy, and you don’t wait until the doctor diagnoses you with Alzheimer’s to buy a policy of Long Term Care Insurance. You would be quite properly rejected for coverage in all three cases.

Other bells and whistles you should be interested in include “step down” options for if the premium increases beyond your ability to pay. This gives you the ability to change to a less expensive policy without new underwriting, rather than simply losing coverage, if your circumstances change..

One protection I strongly advise everyone to get is inflation protection. If you buy a $200 per day policy, that may be adequate now. It may not be adequate when you need to use benefits. All California Partnership policies require compound interest inflation coverage if you are less than seventy at time of purchase. This is a good thing. If you are over seventy when you first buy, simple interest inflation protection is permitted, but I wouldn’t advise it unless you are going to use benefits within the next couple of years or not at all.

Inflation protection applies to both daily benefit and total available benefits. So if you start with a 3 year, $300 per day policy, after one year of 5 percent inflation protection, it goes to a $315 per day policy with a total benefit pool of $340,200. Let’s say it’s twenty years down the line, and your “total pool” of dollars has gone to $871,000, but now you start using them. Let’s say you use $21,000 of benefits that year, leaving $850,000. That $850,000 pool becomes $892,500 the next year, demonstrating that even after you start using benefits, it is still possible for your “available lake” to increase if you have inflation protection. Now the last I was aware, actual cost rises were running about 7% per year, so 5% isn’t really long-term adequate, but it’s what’s available. If you’re relatively young, you probably want to overbuy by some factor to compensate for this.

One rider that you probably do not want is return of premium. Return of premium means if you die without using benefits, your estate gets the money you paid in premiums back. This is very attractive to laypersons, and it makes a nice addition to the salesperson’s commission. Unfortunately, it can also double – or more – your cost of coverage, and the older you are, the larger the multiplier will be. This can cause people who can and should buy a policy to buy a smaller policy benefit than they really need, smaller than they should have. Even though they are spending the same amount of money on the premium, their coverage is far less. Furthermore, the return of premium is usually with only a very small interest, or none at all. It takes comparatively little time before you would have been better off investing the difference.

Now, who should and should not buy a policy of long term care insurance. There are no hard and fast rules, but if you have no assets to protect or the policy premiums are a real hardship, then you should not buy a policy. The state of California defines this as assets between $50,000 and $250,000, but those standards are the same as when I took my training, and would suspect that a truer picture would be those with liquid assets under $75,000 should not bother. On the other hand, California has some very smart millionaires with top of the line advisers buying Partnership policies because they are never certain their circumstances will not change. Income wise, the state of California has a .pdf document that they referred me to. Furthermore, someone who could afford long term care indefinitely would have no reason to purchase an insurance policy – the insurance company doesn’t work for free. In California Partnership Policies, at least, you do have an additional protection in that the company is required to advise you if you are not within the income and asset guidelines for policy purchase, and offer a full refund.

The best time of life to buy long term care is as early as practical. If you buy at 40, your premiums will always be less – a lot less – than someone who buys the same policy at 50, who in turn will save a lot over someone who buys at 60, and so on. Typically, if you wait until after you are sixty, you will have to pay far more in yearly premiums than you saved by waiting – even considering the time value of money. I always called this the “penalty box”, and it makes sense for the same reason life insurance is cheaper the younger you buy it. This is not to say it doesn’t make sense to buy after age 60; what I’m saying is that the statistically average person will save a lot of money over the course of their life expectancy by buying earlier. I’ve had people eighty years old ask me for quotes, and are surprised when minimal coverage is thousands of dollars per year. This is because, first, if you’re buying at age 80, you are overall more likely to use benefits, and for a longer time, and second, because it’s likely to be sooner rather than later, leaving less time for the insurance company to invest your premium dollars and earn a return.

Caveat Emptor

Read The Full Note

Just got a search “how can I tell if my prepayment penalty applies to selling my home”

Read The Full Note. You need to do this before you sign it. I know that many people are just thinking “Sign this and I get the house!” or “Sign this and I get the money!” but a lot of loan providers – often the very biggest – scam their customers by talking about one loan with very favorable characteristics, and when it comes time to sign they actually deliver a completely different loan with a prepayment penalty, burdensome and unfavorable arbitration requirements (I’ve seen stuff that amounted to “the bank chooses the arbitrator”), and any number of other unfavorable terms, not to mention having a higher rate and three times the cost, and being fixed for two years as opposed to the thirty they told you about.

Any loan officer can make up all sorts of paperwork along the way to lull you into a sense of security. The only paperwork that means anything are the papers you actually sign at closing with a notary present. The Trust Deed, the HUD-1 form, and the Note. Concentrate on these three items. The HUD-1 contains the only accounting of the money that is required to be correct (things like do you need to come up with more money than you were told?). And the Note contains all the other information on the loan that your provider might actually deliver. Notice that wording – I said might deliver. Just because you sign the Note doesn’t necessarily mean you get any loan, let alone the one that Note is talking about, but these are the terms you’re agreeing to now, and most Notes do actually fund. They can’t change the terms without getting you to sign a different Note. But once you sign and the Right of Rescission (if applicable) expires, you are stuck. Get that other loan – the one your loan provider has been talking about up to now – out of your head. This is the moment of truth as to what they actually intend to deliver. The majority of the time, the loan they actually deliver is significantly different from the loan they were talking about before now, and this document is where the truth lies. Amount of the loan (does that match what you were told?). Length of the loan. Period of fixed interest. What the fixed rate is, and how the rate will be computed after the rate starts adjusting. The Payments: how closely do they match what you were told? Payments are a lot less important than the interest you are being charged, but if the payments are $20 more than you were told (or if the interest rate is different), you were basically lied to. If the real loan was available and the principal correctly calculated, the payment should be within $1. $20 off gives the loan provider literally thousands of dollars to soak you for extra fees in, even if the rate is correct. A competent loan officer knows what loans are really available and whether you are likely to qualify, and can calculate pretty closely how much money it takes to get the loan done. From this flows the payment. Payment is a lot less important than most people think, but you do need to be able to make it, every month. Furthermore, that’s how most people shop for loans and how unethical loan officers sell bad loans. Shopping by payment is a good way to end up with a bad loan. Many loan officers will tell you about this nice low payment, and conveniently neglect to mention the fact that if you make this low payment, you’ll owe the bank $1200 more at the end of the month than at the beginning of the month.

So take the time to read the entire Note before you sign. There are all sorts of things lenders slip in. I worked for a very short period at a place that trained its people in how to distract you from the numbers on this and the HUD-1 and the Trust Deed. This is a legally binding contract you are entering into, you are agreeing to everything it says, and there aren’t a whole lot of methods of getting out of it if you don’t like what it says later. Once the loan funds, you are stuck with the terms, the costs, and everything else. The only way out, in general, is to refinance, which means paying for another set of loan costs and quite likely the prepayment penalty on this loan. Multiple thousands of dollars. So don’t allow yourself to be distracted. Read the full Note.

Caveat Emptor.

Practical Applications: Credit Cards versus Home Equity Line Of Credit

You raise a lot of issues. Some I’m going to deal with very quickly, others I’m going to spend some effort on, but nothing as in depth as a full article would have. I’m going to keep referring to material found in Credit Reports: What They Are and How They Work

I’m going to take the email in chunks:

Turns out I made the Two-Loan choice myself, independent of your article, a couple years ago. I was motivated to get a conforming first loan (~$322K @ 5.75%), and put the other ~$45K of a prior mortgage into a HELOC (besides, the HELOC rate was lower than the 30-yr fixed at the time!).

Well, times (and HELOC rates) have changed, and I now have
~$65K on my HELOC, and relatively tight budget.


That was 2003. considering that I had 30 year fixed rate loans at 5.375 percent or lower without any points for months and 5.25 for literally zero total cost for about one, you likely paid more than you needed to. There was a period in late August when rates spiked up, but I was calling the same clients back in December and into 2004, asking if they wanted to cut their rate for free. No prepayment penalty, no points. Those would have lowered the rate further.

HELOCs (Home Equity Lines Of Credit) have the disadvantage that they are month to month variable, based upon a rate that is controlled by the bank. On the downside, you’re somewhat at their mercy. On the upside, the rate is based upon that lender’s Prime Rate plus a margin fixed in your loan papers. They can’t change your rate without changing everyone else’s also. There is absolutely no legal reason I’m aware of why they can’t set prime at twenty-four percent. There are plenty of economic reasons. Unfortunately, given the high demand low supply of money currently, the banks are competing for new business with a better margin, not a lower prime. They didn’t cut rates every time Greenspan’s Fed did, but they have religiously boosted prime every time the overnight rate has gone up since the Fed started raising it. Banks are making a killing in real historical terms right now with variable rate lending.

Fortunately, in most cases it’s pretty easy to refinance a HELOC. Credit Unions are a great place for this; variable rate consumer credit is where they shine. There are some internet based lenders where you can obtain no cost, easy documentation HELOCs at rates right around prime, or even a bit below if you have the credit. Most HELOCs also have interest only options for five or ten years. Brokers really don’t do a whole lot for HELOCs except keep lenders honest; there is not enough money in them to make them worth chasing and the lenders won’t pay for them the same as for first trust deeds; it’s too easy to refinance out of them. (Brokers can beat the stuffing out of credit unions on first trust deeds, however).

Unfortunately, your credit score is a problem now:

I have multiple credit card companies offering me low
introductory rates (some 0%, some 2%) for short terms (up-to 1 year).

Why would I NOT want to take them up on their offer?

In truth, I’ve already done this a number of times in the past 12-18 months, always at 0%. So I’ve learned the “minimum payment” trade-off (and I wish congress hadn’t forced CC companies to raise their minimum payment
requirements!) [ last year, one fine bank only made me pay $10/month on their loan of ~$10K! Now I’m seeing minimum payments of 1-3 %]


The difference between cash flow and real cost, and the fact that each time you accept a new credit card thus, it is a MAJOR hit on your credit. Let’s say you have two credit cards now that you have had for over five years, and get four new ones. Your FICO score modeling goes from over five years to about a year and a half on your length of credit history (the average of your accounts, except that five years is the maximum you get credit for an account). Open four more six months down the line, and now you have ten, with an average time open of just over a year. Furthermore, since most people move as much as they can into the new credit accounts, this gives major credit hits for being essentially maxed out on a card. Thirty to forty points on your FICO score per card, perhaps more. You say you’ve been doing this a while. Not to mince any words, I wouldn’t want to have your FICO right now.

There are always two concerns when you’re looking for the best deal. Minimize your costs, of which interest is far an away the largest, and be able to make your payments. I don’t know if you have other payments here, but if so I would do everything I could to live cheaply enough, long enough to use the money I save to make a difference on both of those scores. In your position, I’d sell any cars I still have a payment on, just to get out of the payment. This is a concern I’ve been telling people about since 2003, when the rates on everything were so cheap. There is more than one way to do things, but you have to be prepared for the consequences of the way you chose. I had some clients up in Los Angeles about July of 2003. They wanted to cut their payments. I gave them the option of a conforming loan (like yours) with a HELOC, and they took it. As soon as the loans funded, the wife called me and said I deceived them about the loan, and they wanted me to pay for another loan. Unfortunately for their contention, I had a piece of paper in the file with their signatures saying exactly what I tell everyone else about this situation, that the rate on the HELOC is month to month variable and subject to change, and that they understood this was a risk and they elected to take it. It looks like you went in with your eyes open, but the risk didn’t work out as you hoped. I’m trying to think of other strategies to help you out, but other than “live frugally for a while”, it’s all little stuff around the edges.

Tonight I’m “running the numbers” on whether a 2% rate (nondeductible) is better than an 8% (tax deductible). And according to my simple calculations (I’m an engineer, not a financial advisor!), it’s a no-brainer (go for
it!). For the $40K currently on the HELOC (other $25K is already temporarily in 0% accounts), the one-time transfer fee ($50-90/transfer) and lower interest amount (~$70/mo)
is ~$200/month less than the deductible interest-only (minimum, ~$435, @ 8%) HELOC payment, AFTER adjusting for the tax deductibility (@ 30% [fed + state], ~$130 on $435).

My plan is that in months when my “income”/cash flow cannot cover all the minimum payments, I’ll just use a HELOC check to cover the difference. That is, slowly transfer SOME of the debt back to the HELOC. But in the meantime, my theory goes, I’m paying down my principle faster than if I was just making “extra payments” on the HELOC.


Yes, in most cases you will make more progress, faster, this way, but at such a long-term cost as to make it prohibitive, particularly if you have to leave the credit lines open after you transfer the money out six months down the line. Lots of very silly folks do all kinds of weird and non-remunerative things because it’s a deduction, but deductions are never dollar for dollar. If that were the only concern, 2% nondeductible beats 8% deductible by a huge factor. Given what’s going on in the background, however, kind of a different story. All these newly opened lines of credit are going to drag you down for years. Make certain to pay it off before the adjustment hits; one month at 24% will kill almost all of your savings. Two months at 18% will more than kill it. Given what your score has likely dropped to, I’d bet that it’s closer to the former than the latter.

I also finally had a 0% application turned down, due to “too much credit already, for your income level”. So I imagine having all these cards may be hurting my credit score? But I’m not going to re-fi my house (or buy a new car?) anytime soon, so I think I don’t care.


I imagine you’re going to care. FICO scores require care and tending and time to rise back up. Close off any cards you opened for the zero interest period that you have paid off, and that will mitigate the damage. Keep only a few long standing accounts. But a large amount of damage is already done. When Credit Card companies are saying that, your FICO has dropped big time. Without running your credit, from the foregoing information, I’d guess you are below the territory where I can get a 100% loan, these days, even sub-prime (lower 500s). You might be below 500, where only hard money can lend to you.

Another concern is that HELOCs have “draw periods”, usually 5 years, and you’re about three years into yours. I’d be very certain to move it all back into the HELOC prior to the expiration of the draw period. Your credit card options are already getting worse, meaning that you’re not getting the cards or not getting approved for enough to be useful. The HELOC’s rate, by comparison, is set by a margin in an unalterable contract, and you’re not going to be able to qualify for a new HELOC that’s anywhere near as good while those card accounts are open. Move the money back in at least a couple months before the draw period expires and close the credit cards, and you might be able to get a new HELOC on decent terms.

Your credit is always vitally important. Guarding a high credit score is something worth stressing about. You never know when you might need to apply for credit. Most credit cards, nowadays, can alter your rate if your score drops or if you make one late payment anywhere, not just on that card. A good credit score saves you money everywhere, from borrowing to insurance. In your situation, I’d be stocking up on pasta and Hamburger Helper while seeing what I could do to increase my income, so I could live cheap enough to pay my bills down enough that I’m not squeezed. It’s your life, but that’s the way I see it.

Caveat Emptor

Long Term Care Insurance: Non-Tax-Qualified versus Tax-Qualified, and Partnership

(Part 2 of a three part Series on Long Term Care)

I wrote in the previous column a lot about long term care issues. This column deals with the insurance policies available for long term care. There are two major types, with one subtype available for people who are lucky enough to live in one of four states. There is non-tax-qualified (NTQ), tax qualified (TQ), and for those lucky enough to live in California, Connecticut, New York, and Indiana, there is a superior brand of tax-qualified, Partnership. In many states, there are indemnity policies available for those who don’t like paperwork, but the gotcha is that they are all NTQ, non-tax-qualified.

Let me explain what’s going on here.

In all of the legal policies, there are listed Activities of Daily Living, or ADLs. For non-tax qualified, there are seven, and for tax-qualified, there are six. It is the inability to perform a certain number of these activities without assistance that triggers eligibility for benefits. For tax-qualified policies, these are Bathing, Eating, Transferring, Continence, Toileting, and Dressing. Non-tax qualified adds the ADL of Ambulating, for a total of seven possible qualifiers. Note that the preparation of food is not a qualifying factor, hence Meals on Wheels and similar programs, as well as the traditional family support structures. “Assistance” ranges the gamut from just having somebody there in case something happens (“Standby assistance”) to having to have someone do it completely for you.

Bathing is performing the functions to clean yourself.

Eating is feeding yourself food you are given.

Transferring is being able to “transfer” from one support mechanism to another – for example, bed to wheelchair or wheelchair to toilet.

Continence is what you’d think.

Toileting is ability to perform the tasks necessary to eliminate waste material in a normal fashion.

Dressing is the ability to get clothing on and off as required.

Ambulating is moving yourself under your own power on your own feet from place to place.

Of these ADLs, bathing is almost always among the first to go and hence a trigger for the policy. Eating is probably the least prevalent trigger for benefits, followed by dressing, but there are no solid study figures I can find. Ambulating always goes before or with Transferring. Within broad parameters, each individual insurance company can write their own definitions of each of these. For instance, a number of companies used to define “Transferring” more or less the same as most people think of as walking, thus making it easier to qualify for benefits, and hence, a better policy than competing policies. Of course, they will be priced accordingly, as well, but there is a lot of variance on pricing within the industry. Of the policies I used to sell, the one with the broadest coverage was usually the second-cheapest in the competitive quotes. So shop around.

Now the point needs to be made that just because you qualify for benefits now doesn’t mean you have to start taking benefits now. Sometimes people are in situations where family can take care of them right now, but may not be able to do so indefinitely. Taking care of someone in this manner is brutally tough, and there is no shame in not doing so, or in saying “That’s enough, I can’t take it any more!” For this reason, every policy sold also includes respite care, where a caregiver who is usually a family member can get relieved by a paid provider. If you think about it, it’s to the insurance company’s advantage as they pay out less money this way, as opposed to the person starting to use full benefits right away.

Non-tax-qualified (NTQ) policies have one more trigger for care – ambulating, which tends to make them attractive-seeming to most laymen. However, they usually require three triggers to be pulled (ADLs requiring assistance), as opposed to a limit of two for tax-qualified. This is kind of like showing pictures of something that looks like a Rolls-Royce, but the the interior is vinyl, the body is made out of plastic, and the engine came out of an old Yugo.

Indeed, almost all of the games you will hear about being played are with NTQ policies. The issue is this: In order to become Tax-qualified, the policies have to toe the line of legal requirements. So the NTQ folks, who don’t meet the guidelines anyway, offer all kinds of bells and whistles that don’t really mean anything to make their policies appear more attractive to those who don’t know any better.

You see, NTQ policies are NOT generally deductible on schedule A of your income tax as a medically related expense. Furthermore, if and when they pay you any benefits, those benefits are taxable income. Remember I told you in the previous column that median billing was about $200 per day? So if you’re in there the whole year, that’s about $73,000 of taxable income, on which someone in the 28 percent federal bracket pays $20,440 on federal taxes, never mind state taxes.

Tax Qualified, or TQ, policy premiums are deductible as medical expenses, and the benefits they pay out are not taxed.

Now, for those readers who like myself, may have some knowledge of the nature of the tax code, let me take a minute for an aside. I am well aware that, in general, the IRS only allows, at most, one end of a transaction to get away from taxes. So this kind of got my attention, and before I sold any policies I verified it extensively. I confirmed a few days ago that it is still that way. To further ease your mind, remember that these are health insurance policies. The premiums I pay to my HMO are deductible, and the dollar value of the care I receive is not taxed. Tax Qualified policies of Long Term Care Insurance are treated the same way.

What this means is that it is very hard for me to imagine a scenario where an NTQ policy is better than a Tax-Qualified one. Indeed, I’ve never sold any policies that weren’t. It is for this reason that the state of California requires all Long Term Care Policies to state whether or not they are designed to meet the requirements to be tax qualified. Ask the agent looking to sell you one of these straight out whether it’s a tax qualified policy. Any answer other than a one word straight “yes” or “no” is grounds for terminating the talk. Walk out of their office or throw them out of your home, and go find an agent who knows what they’re doing and is willing to give you straight answers. And if the answer is “no”, ask them to tell you about a policy that is tax qualified. You see, one of the ways NTQ policies get sold is by paying higher commissions. They are harder to sell, because they aren’t as good for most people, so the companies give the agents a reason why they want to sell them. More $$$. It’s your call, but I wouldn’t do business with anyone who tried to sell me an NTQ policy, and yes, that means jettisoning them and finding someone else for your future needs, even if you’ve been doing business with them for decades. They’ve just demonstrated that they don’t have your best interests at heart.

I also want to make the point that agent’s commission should not, in general, be one of your criteria for choosing a policy. That’s a good way to end up with a policy that’s too small to do you significant good, as smaller policies pay less in commission also. Shop by the cost and benefits to YOU. A good agent will show you how they arrived at the figure of the coverage they are recommending, and if you shop around, the good agents will all come up with similar figures and the same way of calculating it.

Back to the main subject: we can regard it as settled that, in general, you want a tax qualified policy. Let me tell you about a subtype of tax qualified policy that people who are lucky enough to live in California, Connecticut, Indiana, and New York are able to buy: Partnership.

All Partnership policies are tax qualified. But in addition to their ordinary benefits and their tax qualified nature, Partnership policies have an extra feature: Medicaid asset protection. If you’ll remember, when I was talking about Medicaid (Medi-Cal here in California), I explained that before they will give you benefits, you are required to spend your assets on your care (or give them a lien in the case of your house) down to where you are basically poverty stricken. And indeed, if the benefits you have purchased under any other long term care policy have run out, that is precisely what you still have to do. Indeed, many people give their assets away during their policy benefit periods, so that when the policy runs out, they no longer own or legally control the assets and are eligible for benefits without a spend down. Since California’s thirty month lookback was the shortest in the nation last I checked (many states are at five years), this means you need to buy a policy where the benefits are going to last longer than that.

But once a Partnership policy’s benefits are exhausted, it protects from Medicaid recovery not only the same assets everyone else gets to protect, but additional assets as well, on a dollar for dollar basis. For every dollar the policy paid out before you applied for medicaid, you get to keep an additional dollar in assets, in addition to whatever everyone else gets to keep. Say you had a two year policy at $200 per day. That’s $146,000 you still have and that you get to keep. The Partnership instructor I had told us in class that she calls her policy her Visitors Insurance. Because she’s still going to have money, her family and heirs are going to want to keep visiting her so that they don’t get written out of the estate. Horrible thought, but this wonderfully funny lady is in her sixties and has been working with nursing home issues her whole life. She has seen too much of what really happens in these instances to be ignored. Visitors also means better care. Not to mention the fact that she will have had a policy in the first place, which means that if the facility she ends up in takes Medi-Cal patients at all, they have to keep her, and that means if there’s no Medi-Cal bed, she stays in the non-indigents ward until there is, so she’s not going to end up in Barstow, where it’s tough for friends and family to visit, and she will have hundreds of thousands of dollars to make her life more tolerable when she is moved to the Medicaid ward.

For this reason, the thing that makes sense with Partnership policies is to buy enough to protect your liquid assets (The New York program uses a different, in my mind far more onerous and less cost effective, plan where you have to buy a minimum of three years of policy benefits). In other words, the dollar value of whatever investments you may have. Since I’m in a Partnership state, this makes it easy to calculate how much of a policy would accomplish that. In non-partnership states, there’s more guesswork involved, and a large amount of sheer guts on behalf of the client.

Let me state emphatically that by inducing people who can afford them to actually buy Long Term Care Policies, Partnership policies save the states who have them a large amount of money – billions of dollars – as those people who would have needed state based aid now have insurance policies to cover their needs. The folks at the California, as well as New York, Connecticut, and Indiana Partnerships for Long Term Care, have saved their states blortloads of money by having this program in place. Luckily for all concerned, this includes two of the three most populous states.

(Supporting articles here and here and here)

However, back in 1993, OBRA (Section 1917 Paragraph 3, about halfway down the page, is the reference) was passed, which at the explicit insistence of Congressman Henry Waxman, who was then chair of the Commerce Committee’s Subcommittee on Health and the Environment, removed from all future states the ability to waive or modify the asset recovery requirement of medicaid. (I understand that Iowa and Massachusetts also have plan documents dated early enough, but have not actually implemented a Partnership program, and the Massachusetts document is even more onerous than the New York one, but better something than nothing). I understand Congressman Waxman’s concern for the budget, yet nonetheless by their propaganda you would expect Democrats to be in favor of something that benefits the middle class like this – particularly the lower middle class blue collar worker, and actually ends up saving the taxpayers money, to boot. Of course, Congresscritter Waxman is from California, which already had a program in place, and he grand-standed against “Money for the poor being used to pay for care of millionaires”. He represents a heavily blue collar district in Los Angeles, so you’d have thought he’d have done more research as to who it actually benefits. So due to this gutting of the primary benefit of having a Partnership policy, there will be no more of these wonderful programs until the law is changed back to what it was prior to 1993. In my opinion, whichever politician gets such a law through Congress should be a national hero. It gives people real incentive to buy a policy if they can afford it, secure in the knowledge that even if it doesn’t cover everything they need, they won’t be destitute after it runs out, while saving the Medicaid program tens to hundreds of thousands of dollars per patient.

So there really is such a thing as an insurance policy that keeps paying you even after the benefits are exhausted. Partnership policies are no more expensive that any other policy, and they provide asset protection, as well as additional benefits. If you are in a state that has a Partnership for Long Term Care, I would not consider any policy that was not a Partnership policy. Here in California, every policy sold must state whether it is or is not a Partnership policy. If it makes sense for you to buy a Policy for Long Term Care Insurance (a subject I will tackle in the next article), and you are in a state that has such a program, make certain that the policy you buy is one of those policies available through your state’s Partnership for Long Term Care.

Links to the four states with Active Partnership Programs:

California

New York

Connecticut

Indiana

(Continued in Part III here.)

Caveat Emptor

Rejected Offers to Purchase Real Estate

“overpriced house offer rejected what next”

(Before I get started, I want to make it clear that I am using the same definition of worth found in this article: A property is worth what a willing buyer and a willing seller agree on and consummate.)

The seller obviously didn’t feel that it was overpriced. Given that they were unwilling to sell for that, consider the possibility that you didn’t offer enough.

It’s human nature to always want to blame the other side. Given the state of real estate prices here in San Diego, I have considerable sympathy for buyers these days. On the other hand, if you look at the sales log, sales are still being made. This means willing buyers and willing sellers are coming to an agreement that both feel leaves them better off, and they are doing it at market prices.

The fact is, there are always at least two possibilities when an offer is rejected, and the truth may be a mixture of the two.

First, that the seller is being unreasonable. This happens a lot. Somebody thinks their property is worth more than it’s worth. When people can buy better properties for less, they’re not going to be interested in yours. In this situation, you’re not likely to get any good offers. You’ll get people doing desperation checks – coming in with lowball offers to see how desperate you really are. A very large proportion of these are people in my profession looking for a quick flip and the profit that comes with it, or other investors. Anybody looking at properties priced where this one should be priced is likely not even going to come look.

Second possibility, the buyer is the one being unreasonable. Properties like that one really are selling for the asking price, and you offered tens of thousands less. Some buyers do this because it’s all they can afford. Some buyers do this because they want to get a “score”. And some are just the standard “looking to flip for a profit” that I talked about in the previous paragraph. There is a point at which I tell all but the most desperate sellers that they’re better off rejecting the offer completely than counter-offering. It saves time and effort, and the prospective buyer either comes back with a better offer, or they go away completely. Someone offering $250,000 for a $350,000 property is not likely to be the person you want to sell to. Even if you talk them up into a reasonable offer by lengthy negotiations, they’re far more likely than not to try all sorts of games to get it back down as soon as you’re in escrow. Better to serve notice right away that you won’t play.

Now some bozo agents think that starting from an extreme position, whether high list price or lowball offer to purchase, gives them more leverage, or that somehow you’re eventually likely to end up in the middle. This is bullsh*t. A transaction requires a willing buyer and a willing seller. Price the property to market if you want it to sell. Offer a market price if you want the property.

The Quickflippers™ have had a distorting effect on this, and disconcertingly many of the properties being offered for sale are owned by people who bought with the intention of the quick flip for profit, rather than buy and hold. Many of those looking to buy still fall into this same category, and I suspect this is much the same in other formerly hot housing markets as well. They’ve become addicted accustomed to the market of the last few years, when a monkey could make a profit on a property six months after they paid too much money to purchase it. That is not the market we face today. This market favors the buy and hold investor. Actually, if you remember the spreadsheet I programmed a while back, I’ve pretty much confirmed that the market always favors the buy and hold investor, it’s just been masked by the feeding frenzy of the past few years, where John and Jane Hubris could come off looking like geniuses when it was just a quickly rising market and the effects of leverage making them look good. It’s just that the support for the illusions of Mr. and Mrs. Hubris has now been removed.

Now, what to do when your offer has been rejected. There are two possibilities. The first is to walk away. If the home really is overpriced, and there are better properties to be had for less money, you made a reasonable offer and were rejected, you’re better off walking away. I don’t want to pay more for a property than it’s comparable properties are selling for, and I certainly don’t want my clients to do so either. The sort of people who go around making desperation check offers walk away without a second thought with considerably less justification.

The second is to consider that the property might really be worth more than you offered. Okay, a 3 bedroom 1 bath home did sell for that price in that neighborhood, but when you check out the details, that was a 900 square foot home on a 5000 square foot lot and the one you made an offer on is a 1600 square foot home on a 9000 square foot lot, and in better condition with more amenities. It’s a more valuable property, and you can refuse to see that from now until the end of the world and you’re only fooling yourself. The reason you thought the property was attractive enough to make an offer was that it had something the others you looked at didn’t, and most of these attractors add a certain amount of value to the property. The more value there is, the more folks are willing to pay for it. This is why one of the classical tricks of unethical agents is to show you a property that’s out of your price range, then figure out a way to get a loan where you qualify for the payment. This property is priced higher because it has features that add more value and a reasonable person would therefore conclude that other reasonable persons would be willing to pay more for that property than others. Landscaping, location, condition, more room, amenities. There’s something that the seller thinks reasonable people would be willing to pay more for. It’s kind of like taking someone who can afford a $10,000 car and showing them a $25,000 one, then telling them they can get interest only or negative amortization payments to get them into it. You only thought you could afford the $400,000 home, but they’ve got a way that you can get into the $600,000 home, which obviously is going to have many things that the $400,000 home lacks. Consumer lust does the rest. Cha-ching! Easy sale, and the fact that they’ve hosed the client doesn’t come out until long after those clients made a video for the agent on move-in day when they’re so happy they’ve got this beautiful house that they didn’t think they could afford (and really can’t), and they gush gush gush about Mr. Unscrupulous Agent, who then uses this video to hook more unsuspecting clients – never mind that the original victims in the scam lost the house, declared bankruptcy, and got a divorce because of the position Mr. Unscrupulous Agent put them into. You want to impress me with an agent, don’t show me happy clients on move-in day. Emotional high of being brand-new homeowners aside, any monkey of a loan officer can get anybody with quasi-reasonable credit into the property. What happens when they have to make the payments? More importantly, what happens when they have to make the real payments? Given the current environment, the question, as I keep saying here, is not “can I get this loan through?” but “Is it in the best interests of the client to put this loan through?” You want to impress me with an agent, show me a happy customer five years out “My agent found this property that fit within my budget, told me all about the potential problems he saw, got the inspections and loan done, and it’s been five years now with no surprises, and the only problem I’ve had was one he told me about before I even made the offer.”

Of course, the real value of the property may be beyond your range or reach. If your agent showed you something you could not reasonably acquire within your budget, you should fire them. I accept clients with a known budget, I’m saying I can find something they want within that range. If it becomes evident I was wrong (eyes bigger than wallet syndrome) the proper thing to do is inform the client that their budget will not stretch to the kind of property they want, and suggest some solutions, starting with “look at less expensive properties” and moving from there to “find a way to increase the budget” and finally to “creative financing options.” That’s a real agent, not “Start with creative financing options but somehow ‘neglect’ to mention the issues down the road.”

There is no universal always works strategy for rejected purchase offers. It’s okay to do desperation checks, but be aware that most sellers aren’t desperate and that it’s likely to poison the environment if the seller isn’t that desperate. Poisoning the environment is okay if you’re a “check for desperation and then move on” Quickflipper™, but if you’re looking for a property you want and have found something attractive, it’s likely to be counterproductive so that you may end up paying thousands more that you maybe could have gotten the property for if you’d just offered something marginally reasonable in the first place. Make a reasonable offer in the first place, and you’re likely to at least get a dialog. And if the seller rejected what really was a reasonable offer for an overpriced property, the only one to lose is them. Move on. Their loss is someone else’s gain.

Caveat Emptor (and Vendor)