“what can a consumer recover from title company for undisclosed easement”
Basically, the cost of the immediate remedy, at least here in California.
Here’s a standard example. Mr. and Ms. Smith buy a property and they wish to put a pool in. The purchase process reveals no easements and they quickly take possession of the property and start digging. Three hours later, the contractor hits a four foot water pipe buried six feet deep and cutting right across exactly where the pool needs to be.
With a standard owner’s policy of title insurance, the title company will pay for the contractor’s bill, including the cost of filling in that hole they dug. There may also be a small settlement made for the decreased utility of the property. After all, you can’t really do anything about that easement, now can you? Nor can you build anything that conflicts with the easement holder’s right of access. No pool, no granny flat, no game room or detached office, at least on that segment of the property, which, given the size of most recent lots, means not at all.
The title company will not, under the basic policy, purchase the property or make a large settlement. The reason for this is that if the standard policy made them liable for things like frustrated purpose of purchase, the standard policy would be far more expensive. People wouldn’t want to purchase policies of title insurance, because they insured against risks which are relatively rare, but extremely expensive when they do occur. Who pays for that? The other policyholders, of course.
You can purchase a rider or endorsement for extended title coverage, of course. Furthermore, if certain purposes are critical to your reasons for acquiring the property, you can do additional research, or pay to have it done. It can be expensive, but if you don’t want this $500,000 property unless you can build a pool, an office, or a granny flat on it, spending the money can be an excellent insurance policy.
Caveat Emptor
Debt Consolidation Services
In my experience, these are death to your credit rating. Why?
Because of how they work. The short story is they get your creditors to agree to accept some lesser number of dollars for your debts. The creditors, for their part, aren’t happy about this. They often mark you as not having paid in full. But that’s not the really painful thing.
Since you’re not paying the service very much, what usually happens is that they sit on your money for as long as they can before passing it on to your creditors. Thirty, sixty, even ninety days, to earn all of the interest they can.
But your creditors want that payment every month on time. So of course they are marking you thirty days late, sixty days late, or even ninety days late. Every creditor, every account. Every single one that’s late lowers you credit score. It’s unusual for folks who go through this to have credit scores over 500, and the worst score I’ve ever actually seen was the result of a debt consolidation “service” promising to “help” them. To paraphrase Arthur Dent, these must be new definitions of those words “service” and “help” with which I was previously unacquainted.
(Unethical Chapter 13 bankruptcy trustees can do the same thing, which is one reason why Chapter 13 is usually worse on your credit than Chapter 7, a severe flaw in the bankruptcy reform law being that it forces folks to hurt themselves worse when they are already in a bad situation. I’ve seen people one day out of Chapter 7 with 650 scores, and 580 is pretty common. 650 would be possible A paper if you’re full documentation and didn’t have more than a couple late payments. 580 is eminently improvable to something that looks decent in a hurry. The score coming out of Chapter 13 is usually something under 500)
Furthermore, debt consolidation services don’t do anything that you cannot do yourself. Call the company and tell them the situation. They will terminate any open line of credit and remove the privilege of new purchases from your account, but they’ll do that as soon as contacted by debt consolidation services, anyway. Furthermore, if you’re in a hole the first step to fixing the situation is to STOP DIGGING!
When you call, have a good idea how much you can really pay per month. If you need to do this with multiple creditors, keep in mind that whatever you’ve got to pay with is going to have to be parceled out amongst all of your creditors, and don’t allow yourself to be talked into more than the proportional amount. If you run into a lot of problems with negotiation, go to a legal aid center. Bankruptcies are a large portion of what they deal with. Explain that you have tried to work out a payment plan but that creditors X and Y are not being reasonable. It may be that bankruptcy is the way to go, but that’s between you and a lawyer to decide.
Furthermore, whatever you do, keep at least one or two accounts in good standing if you possibly can. Keep one or two credit lines outside the payment plan or bankruptcy, and pay the payments in full and on time every month. Once you come out of the payment plan or bankruptcy, you’re going to wish you had. You see, percentage of trade lines you include is one thing that will help determine your credit score later. If you included everything, you’ve hit your credit report as hard as possible. If you don’t have any credit lines, you have to have new ones to start building new credit, and every time you make an inquiry after bankruptcy, the hit is much harder on your score than an inquiry from someone who hasn’t been bankrupt. Finally, if you don’t have any post-situation record of payments, it’s never going to get better. The poor schmoe who includes everything he owes is pretty much hosed for a long time. My understanding is that a credit line where you owe $75 counts for this every bit as heavily as one where you owe $75,000, but it would be wise to double check that as it may be incorrect.
Caveat Emptor
Can Someone Be Added To An Existing Mortgage?
Got a search for that, and it occurred to me that it is a valid question. The answer is yes.
The degree varies. You can simply contact the bank to make yourself responsible for payment. They are usually happy to do this, although unlike revolving accounts you typically will not receive back credit on your credit score for the entire length of time the trade line has been open. Nonetheless, if the bank reports the mortgage as paid as part of your credit, it can help you increase your credit score, so long as the mortgage actually gets paid on time every month. One 30 day late is plenty to kill any advantage for most folks. This is typically free. Hey, the bank has one more person to pay the mortgage! This is often used as a way to start rebuilding credit after a bankruptcy or other financial disaster. A friend or family member qualifies for the loan, then adds the person looking to recover to the loan later.
If you want to go one better than that, you can actually modify the deed of trust to make yourself responsible for payment, although it really has no measurable benefit as opposed to simply agreeing to be responsible, and it costs money to notarize and record the modification.
Unless you can get a better rate by doing so, I would advise against a full re-qualification for the mortgage just to add someone. It’s a lot of hassle and expense for no particular gain. If you want to get me paid, I’m cool with that, but there are better ways to accomplish the gain to your credit at far less expense.
Note that this is a different proposition entirely than removing someone from a mortgage or swapping out one person for another. They will NEVER remove anyone from a mortgage without a full refinance.
Caveat Emptor
Buyer’s Agents: What Do They Do?
Got this search:
“should I get a buyer’s agent if I’ve already found a house”
The answer is almost certainly yes, but I am going to examine both the pros and cons. Full disclosure: This is what I do for a living.
The con is fairly simple. If the seller isn’t paying a buyer’s agent, they may be willing to sell more cheaply. Then again, they may not. One of the reasons people sell For Sale By Owner is that they’re a little too greedy. Even if they have a seller’s agent, their listing contract may call for them to keep the buyer’s agent’s commission if the selling agent sells the property without a buyer’s agent involved, and this may cause them to be willing to sell more cheaply. They are under no obligation to do so, however.
Many think the buyer’s agent’s job is to say, “Here is the living room.” That’s like saying the president’s job is to look impressive. Sure, most presidents do look impressive and I do say “here is the living room,” where it’s applicable and my buyer may not have figured it out for themselves. Nor is it about looking in the MLS and my connections to find my buyer a property they like. It’s not even about making showing appointments with listing agents and occupants.
My real job as a buyer’s agent is to find you the best property for your needs under your constraints and get you the best possible bargain on it while making certain that the seller and their agent aren’t hiding anything.
Many folks call the seller’s agents and use them as their agent. This is what is known as a mistake. That seller’s agent has a listing agreement telling them and the seller what the responsibilities of the agent are to the seller. They may or may not sign a representation agreement with the buyer. If they don’t sign one, all of their explicit legal responsibilities are to the seller. They are working for the seller, not for you, and they have a contractual obligation to sell that property at the highest possible price. The buyer’s interests do not enter into it. Perhaps they do an excellent job of representing your interests anyway, but the odds are against it. Their legal responsibilities are essentially limited to “don’t tell any lies and don’t practice law without a license.” While I was working for the FAA, we found out about an agent who had made a real good living for a while as a seller’s agent and how he had done it: By telling everybody he showed a house in the area to that the airport was going to close. Ladies and Gentlemen of the jury, that airport land was dedicated solely to aviation usages by an Act of Congress, and if the county had wanted to close the airport (they didn’t; they were making enough money to pay for every airport in the county there, and socking up a huge fund if they ever figured out something else aviation related to spend it on), they would have had to have paid back tens of billions of dollars to the federal government. We got a call from one of his victims one busy Saturday, who asked, “When is this airport scheduled to close?” We advised him that any proposed closure was news to us, and explained the preceding to the gentleman.
Even if the seller’s agent does sign a representation agreement with you, in approximately thirty percent of transactions (from my experience) a situation arises where the best interests of the buyer and the best interests of the seller collide. When this happens, no matter what they do, an agent representing both sides is stuck on the horns of a dilemma. If they do A for the seller, they are violating the best interests of the buyer. If they do B for the buyer, they are violating the best interests of the seller. Here’s a hint as to which way they are going to jump in the event of conflicting interests: If they violate the seller’s interests, they don’t have a transaction at all. If you don’t buy, they can always sell it to someone else, but if they lose the listing agreement, they are completely out in the cold.
Before I even point a property out to you, or if you find it surf the internet and ask, “What do you think?” I am evaluating the property for fitness, suitability, affordability, how it stacks up to other properties on offer, how many other properties are on offer, and what the details of the property likely mean in the way of potential problem issues. Just a for minor example, a property built in 1975 has to be concerned about both lead-based paint and asbestos; a property built in 1990 still has those worries but to a far lesser extent, as most building stocks with those concerns were long gone, and a property built in 2005 is more likely built over Jimmy Hoffa’s final resting place than a repository for asbestos and lead based paint (it could happen, but the odds are long against it). I am not an inspector or a tester, but I can and do alert my clients to safety and environmental issues, potential repair bills, and all sorts of other items before we’ve made an initial offer. “Best thing you could do with this building is ‘accidentally’ run a bulldozer through it,” is something I told a client in a few weeks ago, in the context of telling him the value, if any, was the land less the cost of demolition and haul-away. Initially built almost 100 years ago and haphazardly added to as well as obviously not in compliance with code, my client would have been facing the possibility of the county condemning the building as unsafe, and quite frankly, I didn’t think anyone would insure it outside FAIR requirements. You’re not likely to get that kind of talk from a seller’s agent. Instead you get words like “charming,” “funky!” and the ever popular phrase “needs a little TLC!”
When it comes to the offer, a seller’s agent is looking to get the highest possible price. Period. They don’t care if you could buy a better property for less elsewhere, their responsibility to the seller and desire for a larger paycheck are in perfect alignment. A buyer’s agent is responsible to you, and whereas buyer’s agents get paid based upon the sales price, same as the seller’s agents, they at least have a legal responsibility to do their best for you. If there are any complaints, a seller’s agent can take refuge in the fact that it is their primary duty to get the best possible terms (i.e. highest possible price) for the property. The buyer’s agent has no such shelter. Which would you rather have as your representative?
Buyer’s Agents do not usually cost you, the buyer, any extra money. I’m sure there are exceptions, but I’ve never run into one. Both the Exclusive and Nonexclusive Buyer’s Agent Agreements used by California Association of Realtors state, in the absence of additional agreement, that any commissions paid out of the “cooperating brokers” amount on the MLS count against the buyer’s obligation to the representing agent. This is typically agreed to be two percent in California, and I don’t know the last time I saw a residential MLS listing offering less than that to the buyer’s agent. The way the transaction is structured is that the selling agent gets the entire commission, but agrees via the listing contract and MLS to share a certain portion with the buyer’s agent, if the buyer has one. Good buyer’s agents typically beat the price down significantly more than two percent, especially in the current market. I am equipped to do value battle with that seller’s agent in ways that members of the general public are not, and whereas it’s true they don’t have to negotiate with my clients, they’ve got to sell the property to someone. It’s not like the real estate fairy is magically going to convert this property to cash.
Finally, if there’s something you should know about a property, the buyer’s agent makes certain the question gets asked and the answer disclosed to you. This eliminates a lot of potential surprises down the road.
In short, buyer’s agents are the professional on your side, they typically do not cost you any additional money, they can save you a significant chunk on negotiations, and you’re more likely to find out about potential problems with the property if you engage a buyer’s agent.
Caveat Emptor
Available Real Estate Loan Types
So what else is available, besides the thirty year fixed?
There are many kinds of loan out there. Here’s a quick overview:
A Paper
In addition to the thirty year fixed, there are several other varieties of fixed rate loan available, and several that are not. Commonly available are five year fixed, ten year fixed, fifteen year fixed, twenty year fixed, and twenty-five, as well as forty making a comeback.
I tend to avoid them all with my clients, except for the thirty year fixed. You can always pay more if you have more money that month, but you cannot always pay less. The shorter the term, the lower the interest rate should be, as not only are they guaranteeing the rate will not change for a lesser period, but the shorter the term, the more principal you are paying every month and the less risky the loan is. Nonetheless, they are also harder to qualify for because the minimum payment is higher.
For instance, if you have $2000 per month payment that you qualify for, then at 6.5 percent interest rate, here are the amounts you qualify for:
| term 40 30 25 20 15 10 5 | amount $341,600 $316,400 $296,200 $268,200 $229,500 $176,100 $102,200 |
Thirty year fixed rate loans also come in interest only loans, usually for five years.
A paper loans also come in Balloon Loans, with thirty year amortization, where you make payments “as if” if were a thirty year fixed rate loan, but they are due in full after five or seven years (a few ten year balloons exist, and fifteen year balloons are almost exclusively Home Equity Loans). The shorter the balloon period, the lower the rate should be.
A paper loans also come in hybrid ARMs, with thirty year amortization and payoff term, but shorter fixed period. Unlike Balloons, you are welcome to keep them the full thirty years if you want to, but most folks want to refinance or sell before the adjustment begins. One, three, five, seven and ten years are commonly available fixed terms. Once they begin adjusting, they are based upon an underlying index plus a set margin above that, and the vast majority of A paper hybrids adjust once per year, and all the loans from a given lender will, once they adjust, adjust to the same rate no matter what you bought the start rate down to. For A paper, the base index is usually the US Treasury rate or the one year LIBOR. COFI, COSI, and MTA are Alt-A negative amortization loans, not A paper, and all three varieties of negative amortization loan are the same stuff from different outhouses. There are probably a hundred times more negative amortization loans than there should be, because they are so easy for those in search of a quick commission check to sell by the payment when you slap a friendly sounding label like “Pick a pay” on them.
Finally, there are some few A paper that are true ARMS, or so close that they might as well be. Month to month loans, adjust every three month loans, and adjust every six month loans. Their adjustments are usually on the same basis as hybrid ARMs, and they have thirty year amortizations. Some are even available in interest only.
Sub-prime
Sub-prime loans come in more flavors. The most common are fixed for two years, the next most for three. Both come in thirty and forty year amortization periods, as well as interest only. Interest only usually carries a higher rate for the fixed period, because they are riskier loans from the lender’s point of view, but the payment is lower. These are usually called 2/28, 2/38, 3/27 and 3/37 loans, for the fixed period and the remaining term thereafter. Interest only variants are all 2/28 or 3/27, and when they begin adjusting they begin amortizing, which can make a sudden sizable difference in payments. Some sub-prime lenders also offer 5/25 and 7/23 programs, including interest only variants. Once they adjust, all of these loans adjust every six months, which is one way to usually tell if you have a sub-prime or A paper hybrid ARMs, as the latter almost always adjust once per year, although a few lenders also have A paper hybrids that adjust at six month intervals.
Sub-prime loans also have thirty and forty and are starting to come out with fifty year fixed rate loans, with some thirty year fixed rates having an interest only option, usually carrying a quarter of a point higher interest and an interest only period of five years. Nonetheless, the rate spread between sub-prime hybrid and sub-prime fixed is usually larger than the spread between A paper hybrid and A paper fixed. Where you might get the A paper thirty year fixed for one percent above the rate of a 5/1 ARM, the difference between a 3/27 and a 30 year fixed is usually closer to two percent (this is by recent standards. When I initially bought in 1991, I was offered a choice between 5.75 percent 5/1 and 11 percent 30 year fixed)
I tend to like the five year fixed for myself and my A paper clients. It saves a lot in interest, and you’ve got five years where nothing can change, which is a longer period than most folks go without refinancing, and it’s usually only about an eighth percent or so more expensive, interest wise, than the 3/1 while being a quarter percent or so cheaper than a 7/1. For the sub-prime clients, I tend to prefer the 2/28 if I think they’ll be A paper at the end of two years, the 5/25 if not and if I can find it (3/27 if I can’t). Of course, if you really want to pay the higher rates for a long term fixed rate loan, I may believe you’re wasting money, but it’s your money to waste, and you’re the one making the payments.
Two final types worth covering are the HELOC (“he-lock”), or Home Equity Line Of Credit, and HEL (“heal”), or Home Equity Loan. They are usually used as Second Trust Deeds, the second loan on a property. A HELOC is a variable rate interest loan, usually prime plus a margin, and there is often an interest only period. It is a line of credit, and so long as you stay within your credit limit, the initial underwriting covers it. Nobody does fixed rate HELOCs; what they do when you “fix the rate” is fix that part of it you’ve already taken out and lower the maximum available credit. HELOCs have two phases, a draw period, when you can take more out (up to the approved limit), and a repayment period, when you’re repaying what you took. Most folks end up selling or refinancing, however. Home Equity Loans are one time, fixed rate loans. I’ve seen all sorts, but the most common is a 30 year amortization with a 15 year balloon, although the twenty year fixed is almost as common. You need to refinance, sell, or pay the loan off prior to the end of fifteen years, lest the lender call the note.
Caveat Emptor
Inducements to Use A Particular Lender for a Purchase
One of the things I’m seeing more of in MLS listings and developer advertising, among other places, is the phrase “$X in closing cost credit (or “$X in free builder upgrades”) given for using preferred lender”
Sounds like a bargain, right? Just use their lender and you get this multi-thousand dollar credit. After all, “All Mortgage Money Comes From The Same Place!” Free money, right?
Well possibly, but not very likely. What most companies are looking to do with this advertising is give people a reason not to shop around. They hope that because most people think that “All Mortgage Money Comes From The Same Place”, the average customer will just stay there to apply for a loan. Many builders and conversion companies will throw roadblocks in your way if you try to use another lender. They cannot legally require you to use their loan company (at least not in California), but they can make it exceedingly difficult to go elsewhere. I’ve been told by builder’s representatives on two occasions that I was wasting my time with a loan, because “If they don’t use our lender, they won’t get the property!” despite already having a signed purchase agreement. Roadblocks take all sorts of turns. They won’t let the appraiser in. They won’t cooperate with requests for information, without which the other loan is going nowhere. And so on and so forth.
The builders wouldn’t give those incentives to use their lender, or throw roadblocks in your way when they’re trying to sell you a property, if they weren’t making more money with the loan. Quite often, they’re making more money on the loan than they are from the sale. Put you into a loan half a percent above market, stick a three year prepayment penalty on it, and voila, anywhere from a 6 percent premium to perhaps 10 percent. To give you a comparison, around here an agent makes 2.5 to 3 percent from a transaction, and I do my loans on anywhere from half a point to a point and a half, depending upon difficulty and size. But the average consumer is distracted by these “free” upgrades or closing costs that they don’t realize how badly they’ve been raked over the coals. If I can get you that $400,000 loan half a percent cheaper and with no prepayment penalty, I’m saving you $2000 per year for certain, and very likely about $12,000 on the prepayment penalty.
Furthermore, on some of the builder’s loans I’ve analyzed, they’re getting you a rate that would carry a point and a half retail rebate, even without the prepayment penalty. This means on a $400,000 loan at that rate, the lender would be paying you a $6000 incentive to do that loan, more than covering normal closing costs. Have no fear, that builder is doing quite well for having loaned you that money.
What can an average person do about this sort of thing? As I’ve said before, builders often throw roadblocks in the way of outside lenders, and there’s not a lot that you or anyone else can do about this fact.
Many people want brand new homes if they can get them. Given the realities about Mello-Roos and how prevalent homeowner’s associations are in more recent developments, I’m not certain I understand this. It’s one thing to deal with Mrs. Grundy when you’re all cheek by jowl in a condominium high rise. It quite another thing to deal with her complaints because you left your garage door open ten minutes longer than the rules say, you want to paint your detached home a couple shades darker or lighter than everyone else, or whatever’s got her dander up today.
I do have a trick or two up my sleeve for when I’m a buyer’s agent in new developments. It’s my job to outmanouever the selling agents the builder has on staff (who tend to be heavy hitting pressure salesfolk). But they are dependent on some things that change from transaction to transaction, so I can’t really describe them in any kind of universal terms. Writing an offer contingent upon an outside loan has its limits. Builders who throw roadblocks have that one wired; they wait for the contingency to expire at which point they’ve either got your deposit or your loan business as you are so desperate not to lose your deposit you’ll do almost anything, particularly since most folks don’t understand how much that loan is really likely to cost them.
Caveat Emptor
Cold Hard Numbers
(This is a somewhat redacted letter I was been sending out during the 2000s mortgage crisis)
I have just recently attended a talk by Gregory Smith, the county assessor, on the future of home values in San Diego. He expects prices to continue to rise by 5-10% per year, citing scarcity as the reason. Basically, too few homes are being built, so we are in a situation with excess demand and not enough supply.
Now, public officials of the county of San Diego have an incentive to want prices to continue to rise. I tried to ask him a question about any other factors holding the price up, and he was unable to produce any.
Unfortunately for this point of view, high demand and scarce supply has a long history in the San Diego area. This has been a constant of the market, rather than a variable, since the late 1970s. Even during the last downturn, the problem was not a lack of interested buyers, the problem was that they couldn’t afford the prices when interest rates went up. Sellers had a choice of selling at the prices people were able to qualify for or not at all. Many chose the latter option, it paid off in spades when interest rates fell and prices started rising again. Those in situations where waiting was not an option had no choice but to sell at lower prices.
The fact is that only 9% of the people can afford to purchase a home in San Diego. Even for wealthy investors who put $100,000 down on a $500,000 home with the intent of renting it out, their monthly cash requirements are $2528 to cover a 6.5% loan, plus approximately $500 per month to cover basic property taxes and then insurance, maintenance, etcetera on the property. Unless rents are well in excess of $3000 per month, which they are not, this amounts to investing $100,000 only to have to invest more every month in hopes that the market rise will eventually reimburse you. It might work if you’ve got that kind of excess income, but I agree with every respectable real estate investing guide that unsustainable negative cash flow on an investment property is a recipe for disaster. This current situation in real estate has many parallels to the dot com investing bubble of several years ago.
Furthermore, we have many people who obtained short-term financing in the last several years, loans that must be refinanced within the next eighteen months, and will not be able to obtain terms that are as good or allow their adjustable rate loans to adjust. Either way, they are facing higher payments – payments that many are unlikely to be able to make. They will either sell voluntarily for what they can get, or involuntarily as the lender liquidates a nonperforming loan.
Even though long term rates are still remarkably affordable, short term financing, particularly on a “Stated Income” basis has become more prevalent for purchases, especially for beginning buyers, and these have risen enough to slow the market greatly. We are starting to see indications of a buyers market now. Homes are taking much longer to sell, and buyers are getting much more leverage on their offers. When longer term rates return to their historical margins above short, the effect will multiply. It doesn’t take a genius – only a calculator – to know that when owner occupied rates go from 5.5% to 6.5%, somebody who could afford a $400,000 loan at 5.5% can only afford $359,000 at 6.5% (this difference is magnified for those willing to take interest only loans).
What does this mean to you, a homeowner? If you intend to hold onto your home for many years, I am confident that the market will eventually make good any short term correction. On the other hand, now is the time to secure the long term financing that enables you to hold onto the property profitably, while the high price of comparable properties helps your equity picture. (omitted text here)
If you are in a situation where you know that you are going to need to sell within the next few years, the time to act is definitely now, lest you lose more of your precious built-up equity to the short-term vagaries of the market. This market is going to get much worse for sellers before it gets better. (omitted text here)
And if you’re looking to move to a larger house soon, the time to act is now to leverage the market! Sell while the market is still high, knowing that when prices recede later, the money you get from the sale will help you buy more house for less! (omitted text here)
Changing the Purchase Contract
What is the reasonable amount of notice to give when changing contract terms in California
That was a search I got. Unfortunately for this person, a real estate contract is not something like Lando Calrissian’s bargain with the Empire, where Darth Vader was free to alter it at will.
The real estate contract is negotiated until both sides are in complete agreement as to the terms the exchange will be made upon. There cannot be any differences in the terms of the proposed agreement and accepted agreement, or you aren’t done negotiating yet.
Once accepted by both parties, the contract terms are not unilaterally alterable by either party. They can, in most cases, walk away from the deal completely if something isn’t right, but they can’t say, “The deal is still on, but you’re paying me $5000 more than you thought,” any more than they can tell you, “And I get your car, too!”
Now, if something pops up such that you don’t think it’s a good exchange to be making any more, in most cases you can walk away from it, albeit with possible consequences for the deposit. In such cases, if the other party wants to keep the deal going, they can offer concessions, but you cannot force them to change the terms of the contract. The same thing holds true in reverse. They can’t force you to alter the terms of the contract, but if they’re ready to walk away and you want to keep them in the contract, you can offer concessions or ask what it would take to keep the transaction going. If you don’t like what they say, you don’t have to accept those terms, any more than they had to accept the contract in the first place.
In short, contracts to purchase real estate are two-sided contracts, and are not alterable by any party to it without the agreement of all parties.
Caveat Emptor
Appraisal Fraud
I enjoyed finding your blog today. It was enlightening, particularly in the area of real estate appraisals.
Mortgage fraud is something I’ve been reading about lately. Since the FBI says 80% of it involves collusion and usually with the appraiser, it made me wonder why underwriters don’t just ask for second appraisals when a loan looks like it could be part of a flipping scheme (e.g., the owner hasn’t had it for long and the new appraisal has it coming in much higher than the last one).
Have you looked at this area at all? I’d be interested in your point of view.
Appraisal Fraud is more of a problem than it was. A couple of years ago, the appraisal was treated and regarded differently than it is now. On the one hand, appraisers were regarded as gods sitting in judgment of a property, which never was true. They’re human, subject to human foibles and tendencies. On the other hand, it has perhaps swung a too far in the opposite direction, with many appraisers doing whatever the loan provider wants in order to continue to attract business.
A good balance is somewhere in between. Appraisers don’t want to work any harder than necessary, of course, but they’ve got to remember that they are, first and foremost, businessfolk selling a service. I agree with the law that says minimum appraisals are prohibited, as it protects everyone. On the other hand, when I ask an appraiser to reconfirm if comparables don’t support a value of $X, what I’m trying to do is protect my client. This gives me a chance to re-work the loan, or re-open negotiations with the seller, before my client has wasted hundreds of dollars for an appraisal that doesn’t help. Eighty to ninety percent of the time, the appraiser who tells me the value isn’t there gets paid anyway, because I can re-work the loan or renegotiate the deal to the point where everybody’s happy and the transaction proceeds. If the appraiser just goes out, takes the check, and drops an appraisal that’s $20,000 low on my client, I have a screaming mad client on my hands who is poison to my business because in their eyes I was the one who “tricked” this money out of them, and perhaps a seller and seller’s agent who are angry as well because I hired an “incompetent” appraiser, with repercussions next time I write an offer for one of my clients, and nobody is happy, least of all me.
On the other hand, an appraiser who is willing to manipulate the data to come up with value no matter what is one I want to stay away from, and it’s because of fraud. If there’s no default and the loan gets paid back in full, appraiser fraud doesn’t matter in terms of people getting hurt. But that’s not the usual thing that happens with appraiser fraud.
I keep writing that a certain percentage of all attempted real estate transactions are fraudulent, and a good agent and especially a good loan officer keeps their eyes peeled for evidence. Real Estate transactions are very large dollar amounts. A one bedroom condo around here goes for over $200,000. This is more than most families make in a couple of years. An average single family residence might be $500,000 or more. This makes the temptation level considerable, and there are always folks around who have an eye for the quick easy dollar and never mind the effects on others or the prospects of prison if caught. Sometimes the lender is the intended mark, sometimes the other party to the transaction. I could tell you about all varieties of scams, but appraisal fraud is one of the most common.
Before we go any further, let’s examine what an appraisal is. Accountants value goods using a method called “Lesser of Cost or Market,” or LCM for short. This means a given property is valued for accounting purposes at either the purchase price (cost) or appraised value (market), whichever is lower. But this has been modified from its original form for real estate lending purposes, because in the real world real estate appreciates in value. At purchase, the cost or value argument still applies. No matter what, the lender will not lend based upon a value greater than the purchase price. Later on, however, they will, because land does not depreciate, it does not in general vanish or get used up, and it does increase in value (Pretty much universally over time frames of a decade or more).
This gives scam artists all the leeway they need. Some of them are relatively harmless, in that all they’re looking for is a better rate on a loan that they do intend to repay. This doesn’t mean it’s smart to cooperate with them, as many agents and loan officers who did are likely to discover quite soon, as the loans default and the lender investigates why. The balance sheet reads a little differently when you discover that cooperating with the guy who just wanted to cut a few corners is going to cost you your license.
Appraisal fraud, however, is usually aimed at a large quick score. I’m going to keep my examples basic, lest I inadvertently release a couple more ideas into the wild. Let’s say you own a property that’s worth (pinky finger extended) one million dollars. You owe $900,000. If you sell, you’re going to net about $30,000. But if you can persuade a buyer that property values are increasing much faster than they are, many will bite off on an increased sales price. You tell the appraiser “Appraise it for $1,250,000 and it’s worth $25,000 to you!” He does so. You pay him his $25,000 and your net is still around $235,000 to $240,000. It’s fraud, but fraud that many folks have gotten away with because the buyer doesn’t realize he’s been had and keeps paying the bank. Or you can’t keep up the payments but want to walk away with as much cash as possible. Instead of a distress sale, where you’d be very lucky to break even with a sharp buyer’s agent, you pay the appraiser $25,000 to appraise it at $1.25 million, refinance for cash out to maybe 90 percent of that value, pay the appraiser and walk away with a cool $200k, never making a single payment on the new loan.
Appraisal fraud can also be intentionally low. A buyer wants to buy the property, pays the appraiser to appraise it low, and renegotiates the price. I had this tried on me about two years ago. It didn’t work.
Now once upon a time, there were real constraints to keep an appraiser from pulling this, on residential properties at least. To a certain extent, there still are but those guidelines have been relaxed due to the hypercompetitive market we’ve had the last few years. For instance, it used to be that the lenders would accept a value for a property on a refinance no higher than an annualized increase of 10 percent for the first couple years. That’s gone by the wayside, as lenders get used to the fact that values are increasing faster than that. With many lenders, it’s whatever the appraiser says the day after the sale. This is an invitation to fraud. Invitations to fraud do not excuse fraud, but they certainly make it easier. It used to be that no matter what, you couldn’t pull cash for six months after a sale. That’s now changed.
Underwriting in many lenders no longer has to pass a “smell test,” where the lender pulls up the local market and sees what similar properties have really sold for recently. They’re competing for loans! First time they tell the folks “no” that loan officer may not give them any more chances to do loans, choosing instead other lenders with more accommodating employees and policies. They have to do loans to stay in business, and avoid layoffs, but those lenders with more accommodating employees and policies are going to be in a world of hurt if the local market cools much further.
Now appraisers that do this are subject to discipline and legal penalties, starting with the fact that the lender has the option of never accepting one of their appraisals again and going up through loss of license and jail time. I’m not up on the penalty structure, but fraud that costs in excess of $100,000 is a serious felony. They’ve got the appraiser’s name, license number, and other identifying information. In my opinion, aiding and abetting fraud is stupid and if you can’t get them to fly straight, walking away as quickly as possible is your best option, but real estate compensations (and the amounts at stake) are large enough that many will do it. If you’re not a pro yourself, your best protection is a good agent that’s working for you only not the seller as well, splitting loyalty between both sides of the transaction, and making sure somebody working for you is there at the property to meet the appraiser.
Caveat Emptor
Saving Money by Refinancing Your Mortgage
One of the bloggers I used to read talks about debunking a money myth and perpetuates one of his own. He took issue with someone refinancing to lower their monthly payment, insisting instead that the term of the loan was all important.
His point is understandable in that because folks tend to buy more house than they can really afford, they also tend to obsess about that monthly payment. The solution to this is simple to describe but it takes someone with more savvy and willpower than most to bring it off: don’t buy more house than you can afford.
Actually, there is nothing that is all important, but if I had to pick one thing as most important, it would be the tradeoff between interest rate and cost and type of loan. This is always a tradeoff. They’re not going to give you a thirty year fixed rate loan a full percent below par for the same price as loan that’s adjustable on monthly basis right from the get-go.
If you have a long history of keeping every mortgage loan you take out five years, ten years, or longer, then perhaps it might make sense for you to take out a thirty year fixed rate loan and pay some points. To illustrate, I’m going to pull a table out of an old article of mine because I’m too lazy to do a new one.
| rate 5.625 5.750 5.875 6.000 6.125 6.250 6.375 6.500 6.625 6.750 6.875 7.000 | discount/rebate 1.750 1.250 0.625 0.250 -0.250 -0.750 -1.250 -1.500 -2.000 -2.250 -2.500 -3.250 | cost $4725.00 $3375.00 $1687.50 $675.00 -$675.00 -$2025.00 -$3375.00 -$4050.00 -$5400.00 -$6075.00 -$6750.00 -$8775.00 |
Now I’m intentionally using an old table, and rates are different now. I’m assuming no prepayment penalties, and the third column is cost of discount points (if positive) or how much money you would have gotten in rebate (if negative), assuming the $270,000 loan I usually use by default. Add this to normal closing costs of about $3400 to arrive at the cost of your loan, thus:
(I had to break this table into two parts to get it to display correctly)
| Rate 5.625 5.75 5.875 6 6.125 6.25 6.375 6.5 6.625 6.75 6.875 7 | Points/Rebate $4,725.00 $3,375.00 $1,687.50 $675.00 ($675.00) ($2,025.) ($3,375.) ($4,050.) ($5,400.) ($6,075.) ($6,750.) ($8,775.) | Total cost $8,125.00 $6,775.00 $5,087.50 $4,075.00 $2,725.00 $1,375.00 $25.00 ($650.00) ($2,000.) ($2,675.) ($3,350.) ($5,375.) | New Balance $278,125. $276,775. $275,087. $274,075. $272,725. $271,375. $270,025. $270,000. $270,000. $270,000. $270,000. $270,000. | Payment $1,601.04 $1,615.18 $1,627.25 $1,643.22 $1,657.11 $1,670.90 $1,684.60 $1,706.58 $1,728.84 $1,751.21 $1,773.71 $1,796.32 |
| rate 5.625 5.750 5.875 6.000 6.125 6.250 6.375 6.500 6.625 6.750 6.875 7.000 | New Balance $278,125. $276,775. $275,087. $274,075. $272,725. $271,375. $270,025. $270,000. $270,000. $270,000. $270,000. $270,000. | Interest* $1,303.71 $1,326.21 $1,346.78 $1,370.38 $1,392.03 $1,413.41 $1,434.51 $1,462.50 $1,490.63 $1,518.75 $1,546.88 $1,575.00 | $saved/month $130.80 $108.29 $87.73 $64.13 $42.47 $21.10 $0.00 ($27.99) ($56.12) ($84.24) ($112.37) ($140.49) | break even 62.119221 62.561019 57.993558 63.540017 64.156958 65.177138 0 0 0 0 0 0 |
I’ve modified the results based upon some real world considerations. Point of fact, it’s rare to actually get the rebate (typically, the loan provider will pocket anything above what pays your costs), and so I’ve zeroed out those costs. You take a higher rate, you’re just out the extra monthly interest. The fourth column is your new balance, the fifth is your monthly payment. For the second table, I’ve duplicated rate and new balance for the first two columns, the third is your first month’s interest charge (note that this will decrease in subsequent months), the fourth is how much you save per month by having this rate, and the fifth and final column is how long in months it will take you to recover your closing cost via your interest savings as opposed to the cost of the 6.375% loan, which cost a grand total of $25 (actually, this number will be slightly high, as interest savings will increase slowly, as lower rate loans pay more principle in early years).
However, let’s look at it as if your current interest rate is 7 percent. Your monthly cost of interest is $1575, there, so let’s see how long it takes to actually come out ahead with these various loans.
| Rate 5.625 5.75 5.875 6 6.125 6.25 6.375 6.5 6.625 6.75 6.875 7 | Loan Cost $8,125.00 $6,775.00 $5,087.50 $4,075.00 $2,725.00 $1,375.00 $25.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 $0.00 | New Loan $278,125. $276,775. $275,087. $274,075. $272,725. $271,375. $270,025. $270,000. $270,000. $270,000. $270,000. $270,000. | Saved/month $271.29 $248.79 $228.22 $204.63 $182.97 $161.59 $140.49 $112.50 $84.38 $56.25 $28.13 $0.00 | Breakeven 29.949604 27.232189 22.292335 19.91447 14.893465 8.509266 0.1779458 0 0 0 0 0 |
In short, since you’re recovering costs quickly, it would make sense for folks with a rate of 7 percent to refinance in this situation, no matter how long they have left on their loan. For $25, they can move their interest rate down to 6.375, saving them $140 plus change per month. It’s very hard to make an argument that that’s not worthwhile. On the other hand, I would have been somewhat leery of choosing the 5.625% loan, as more than fifty percent of everyone has refinanced or sold within two years. On the other hand, I have a solid history of going five years between refinancing, so it makes a certain amount of sense, considered in a vacuum. Considered in light of the real world, rates fluctuate up and down. So I tend to believe that if I don’t pay very much for my rate, I’m likely to encounter a situation within a few years where I can move to a lower rate for zero, or almost zero, whereas if I paid the $8125 for the 5.625%, rates would really have to fall a lot before I can improve my situation.
Do not make the mistake of thinking that the remaining term of the loan is more important than it is. You now have (assuming you took the 6.375% loan) $140 more per month in your pocket. It’s up to you how you want to spend it. If you want to spend it paying down your loan more quickly, you can do that (providing you don’t trigger a prepayment penalty, of course!). Let’s say you were two years into your previous loan. Your monthly payment was $1835.00. If you keep making that payment, you’ll be done in 288 months; 48 months or 4 full years earlier than you would have been done. So long as you don’t trigger the prepayment penalty, you can always pay your loan down faster. Just write the check for the extra dollars and tell the lender that it’s extra principal you’re paying. I haven’t made a minimum payment since the first time I refinanced!
Now some folks focus in on the minimum payment. By doing this, you make the lenders very happy, and likely your credit card companies as well. Not to mention that you are meat on the table for every unethical loan provider out there. It is critical to have a payment that you can afford to make every month, and make on time. But once you have that detail taken care of, look at your interest charges and how long you’re likely to keep the loan, not the minimum payment.
Caveat Emptor